RED X19

mkmini said:
I mean to get out air from the system.. air blocks
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Ahhh...eliminating air-locks, got it. Sorry I misunderstood. Good point.

darwoodious said:
You'd only get heat available when the engine's thermostat opened tho
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Very true, told you I may be forgetting to consider something.
As for the water being 'hot', any heater layout won't provide 'heat' until the engine warms up. However the issue here would be water 'flow' when the thermostat is closed. But the thermostat is in a constant flux; partially opening and closing all the time, so maybe it's enough flow to the heater core in less than frigid conditions? Remember, once the heater core gets warmed up the residual heat coming off of it will not immediately stop as soon as the water flow reduces. Perhaps enough on/off flow (as the t-stat cycles) will provide a reasonable source of heat? Granted its not ideal (and may not work at all), but how simple compared to all the pipes/hoses with the stock layout.
 
Fuel system

That UT, from which I took a lot of things was in a little dry grass fire, and some parts look sad.
Now I can't figure out what is the order of elements in picture and even don't know what some of them are.

P.S. I should not part it out in June, my bad.
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Mkmini,
Great work so far. Really appreciate you keeping us informed of your progress. I am learning from your work.
Thanks again,
Florida Mike
(Formerly Nebraska Mike)
 
#1 is a "accumulator". It smooths-out the pulses in fuel flow (caused by the pump's action) and also keeps a constant pressure in the system. Basically a can with a bladder; the air chamber behind the bladder acts like a spring to dampen pulses and to add extra pressure when the system looses a little. Just check if it leaks fuel. The system will work without it but is best to keep it if it doesn't leak.

#2 looks like maybe a aftermarket fuel filter (metal canister inline type)? Does the hose size on one end match the hose going INTO the fuel pump? Often an extra filter like this is added before the pump (between the fuel tank and the pump's inlet) to keep any rust/dirt that's in the tank from damaging the expensive pump (which is a very good idea, especially if the tank is old). But this type filter should not be used AFTER the pump; the pressure is too high for it (that's why the regular fuel filter is so big). Otherwise if not a filter then I'm not sure...maybe a better picture after a little cleaning will help to see it better.

The rest you have in the correct order. Test the fuel pump by putting 12V to it, if it runs it is probably o.k. (these are very robust). Replace the filter, then it will last a long time. Replace all the hoses. No need to buy expensive ones with the fittings already attached. Just cut the ferrules off, remove old hose from fitting, push on new hose (of proper size, very tight fit) and use the high-pressure "fuel injection" hose clamps to secure. Also flush out the fuel rail (back-flush if possible). The injectors may have been damaged by the fire, but try them first before buying new ones (they are kind of expensive).

Message me if any questions.
 
That's it, you got it.
The hoses and clamps on that side of the pump (inlet) are not high pressure so do not need to be anything special. That's also why a standard type filter can be used on that side. The diameter of the inlet hose is larger to assure adequate supply to the pump.
The hoses and clamps and filter on the other side of the pump (outlet) are high pressure. They need to be rated for "fuel injection system". But the hose material is standard fuel hose, it does not need to be the cloth covered stuff like the factory used. If you use clamps rated for high pressure fuel injection (see below) then you don't need to have special "crimped ferrules" done like factory (clamps are available in many sizes, get as close to actual hose OD as possible for best fit).
Z32FuelInjectionHoseClamps.jpg
 
Can I take off oil sump without deattaching gerbox? Does only deattaching long axle from diff help?

Done with only deattaching long axle.
 
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Previously someone informed me that I have to use cambox from 1500 engine - I don't have it, and shipping would be out of budget..
In picture You can see where I'm going to put an extra bracket for dogbone. If You have better idea or good reason why I shouldn't do that - please. (Actually to get MOT here, homemade mounts or brackets for engine here are forbidden . So I'll need to make it look 36 years old :D to look OE)

Folks with UT engines, could You please make some closeup photos for me?
* intercooler - how You mounted it
*oil rad, if You kept it and where located
*

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There are two different lengths of dog-bones on the X1/9. Most refer to them as "1300" (short) or "1500" (long) lengths, but that is not necessarily accurate; some early 1500's had the shorter one. Mine has the shorter, I'll get a measurement of it for you. But this might not be the same for the Uno engine? Unfortunately I cannot offer any input for a UT install. But I will also look at mine when I measure it, to see if I get any ideas for where you can add your mount. It might be tomorrow before I can do this, sorry.
 
mkmini said:
already engine parallel to line between struts
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Guess its too late to help, but the distance is 20cm. However that is for the 1500 X1/9 SOHC engine, so little use for locating your UT anyway.
Sounds like you are getting close to it running?
 
Not far from running :

Bought today some chemical with 25% orthophosphoric acid , to clean a fuel tank. After that will solder holes (or holes).
Am going to finish all wiring tomorrow. Trying to find a good wiring diagram at the moment to ease a little that job.
Fuel system and air pipes could be fully installed on next day.
in the end of next week it could be running and fully assambled.

There was 200 of small problems - like that bracket for dogbone, rusty fuel tank, broken all cables, no radiator, damaged ignition key, , issues with UT brake calipers - damaged bleed screw and redrilled wrongly .... repairing unexpected problems is 3/4 of time spent on this car.

On my to do list left: repairing fuel tank and piping, cooling system, repairing clutch slave cylinder, changing oil filter, regulate handbrake, align sterring, bleed brakes and clutch, install heating valve from some other car, front and back windows, repair side windows mechanism. Front lights will leave for desert - so I will have more time to figure out what will do - put some different ones or just make them fixed upraised.
 
Wondered today about AFM - why it is before turbo, not between intercooler and intake manifold?
 
I love your enthusiasm: you say this "in the end of next week it could be running and fully assambled.", followed by this "On my to do list left: repairing fuel tank and piping, cooling system, repairing clutch slave cylinder, changing oil filter, regulate handbrake, align sterring, bleed brakes and clutch, install heating valve from some other car, front and back windows, repair side windows mechanism. Front lights will leave for desert - so I will have more time to figure out what will do - put some different ones or just make them fixed upraised." :)

But you have proven that is possible with your very rapid progress so far.

Will the "X1/9 Electrical Diagnostic Manual" help (link below), or do you need something for the UT?
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/c/c7/ElectricalDiagnosticManual.pdf

For the fuel tank, after cleaning and soldering, consider a fuel tank sealer product. I'm not sure what is available where you are, but there are several choices here. Examples:
https://www.northernfactory.com/SPECIALTY_PRODUCTS/NORTHERN_FUEL_TANK_LINER
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html#
http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

mkmini said:
Wondered today about AFM - why it is before turbo, not between intercooler and intake manifold?
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Same volume of air must be drawn into turbo as can be exited out of turbo (physics), so no difference in performance of AFM on either side. However the AFM is designed to have the air drawn through it, so maybe safer to prevent potential damage if placed before turbo (easy to damage the flapper on AFM). And possibly the air flow is smoother before the turbo, and "choppy" after being 'cut' by turbine blades after the turbo? Maybe other reasons also, not sure, but seems always done that way.
 
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Is there any other small pipe to feed one of them, or all three feed from one spot?

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This photo stolen from here I guess. This (yellow) spot originally was for vacuum brake booster?- I can just block it?

Thank You all for support so far, but I need it even more now to get it running.:rolleyes:
 
Janis, reach out to this forum member in the UK: https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?members/rachaeljf.64/
She is extremely knowledgeable with technical matters, knows the UT well (I think she has a UT powered X1/9), and is very friendly/helpful. Maybe she has a link to a wire diagram or workshop manual for the UT. I'm sure she can answer any big questions also.

Ya, I'd say that filter was a problem. But all that crud came from somewhere, and likely some of it went beyond the filter. So a really good cleaning of every fuel system component should be done (including the injectors). To check and clean the injectors, try this...

There are two primary parts inside each injector that need cleaning, a screen filter and the spray tip. They have a electric solenoid valve inside that controls fuel flow by opening and closing (from computer's signal). The signal is 12V positive.
fuelinjector.jpg

Fuel Injector.jpg


Watch this GIF to see the action:
Injector3.gif


To clean them, start by removing the injectors from engine. First clean the outside of the spray tip (notice electrical connection, we will use something like this in a minute):
maxresdefault.jpg


Next clean the inside. Get a piece of hose with diameter to fit over the end of the injector where the fuel-rail connects, and about 1 meter long. Use a hose clamp to secure this hose over the injector inlet (fuel rail end). Fill hose with solvent and secure your air compressor nozzle (air gun) to other end of hose. Use about 70-80 PSI (5 Bar) air pressure. Connect electrical terminals (12V positive and ground) like in picture above to open solenoid (solvent will spray out of the injector tip).
Looks something like this, but needs longer hose...see notes on picture (I clamp top end of solvent-filled hose onto air compressor hose gun):
2016-07-28_17-03-49.jpg


Repeat several times. Also do the same procedure in OPPOSITE direction...solvent-filled hose attached to spray-tip end of injector, 12V connected...to back-flush the filter-screen inside injector.

Look at spray pattern when cleaning. Keep repeating until you get a good pattern:
Fuel-Injector-Spray-Paterns-678x381.jpg


Test all injectors for fuel flow volume, and for leaks (dripping). Do by connecting all injectors onto fuel-rail (off of engine) and attach the car's fuel supply to the fuel-rail inlet. Hold injectors over bottles to measure amount of fuel from each injector (compare to each other for same length of time sprayed). Need 12V supply to all injectors at same time; should be able to get this with the ignition key "on" and hold AFM gate (air flapper door) open with finger. Only do this after ALL other fuel system components have been cleaned. If the fuel system on the car is not working or not clean, you can use the same solvent-filled hose and air-compressor set-up you did for each injector, but now attach it to the fuel-rail's inlet.
Looks like:
maxresdefault (1).jpg

All bottles should fill same amount (at the same rate) if all injectors are clean and working properly.

To test for injector leaks, do the same as above but without the 12V supply (injector solenoids closed). Should be no drips when fuel pressure is acting on injectors (key on, flapper open).

Let me know if any questions.
 
Unfortunately I do not know about all of the small hose connections you asked about. However the one on the distributor can be vacuum or pressure (ignition advance or ignition retard under boost) with some turbo applications. But I do not know how UT should be. Hope Rachael can answer.
 
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