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1981 X1/9 Uno Turbo

Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by mkmini, Oct 17, 2016.

  1. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    The heater core is already located in the interior so nothing changes with it's air-flow. Actually everything stays exactly as stock except for the location of the heater hose attachments; now they would be up front just below where the heater core is, instead of at the engine in the back.

    I may be forgetting something to consider, but ya...why wasn't it like this originally?
     
  2. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    I mean to get out air from the system.. air blocks
     
  3. darwoodious

    darwoodious Darin Nelson

    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    You'd only get heat available when the engine's thermostat opened tho - so I don't think that's what you want. You'd get heat "now and then", hot then cold. For all engines the heater circuit has (available) constant flow from the engine. Tapping into the radiator tubes would only get flow when the thermostat is opened.

    Regarding the stacked 5/8 tubes - yeah, that would totally work. There's a large opening you can run both tubes thru. Here's a shot from the bottom of the tunnel:
    IMG_0850.HEIC.jpg
    and from above:
    IMG_0853.HEIC.jpg
    (note that I pulled the 'hot' heater tube that you saw earlier - it runs on the passenger side of the tunnel).

    Maybe I'll start my thread earlier rather than taking over mkmini's thread with this. Cheers.
     
    mkmini likes this.
  4. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    You are right..thermostat.

    It's ok - I made this thread mostly to get advices, not to show what I can do with poor equipment. If someone sees good ideas here for himself - great.
     
  5. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Ahhh...eliminating air-locks, got it. Sorry I misunderstood. Good point.

    Very true, told you I may be forgetting to consider something.
    As for the water being 'hot', any heater layout won't provide 'heat' until the engine warms up. However the issue here would be water 'flow' when the thermostat is closed. But the thermostat is in a constant flux; partially opening and closing all the time, so maybe it's enough flow to the heater core in less than frigid conditions? Remember, once the heater core gets warmed up the residual heat coming off of it will not immediately stop as soon as the water flow reduces. Perhaps enough on/off flow (as the t-stat cycles) will provide a reasonable source of heat? Granted its not ideal (and may not work at all), but how simple compared to all the pipes/hoses with the stock layout.
     
  6. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Fuel system

    That UT, from which I took a lot of things was in a little dry grass fire, and some parts look sad.
    Now I can't figure out what is the order of elements in picture and even don't know what some of them are.

    P.S. I should not part it out in June, my bad.
    Untitled.jpg
     
  7. Tavalin

    Tavalin Nebraska Mike

    Location:
    Tampa, Florida
    Mkmini,
    Great work so far. Really appreciate you keeping us informed of your progress. I am learning from your work.
    Thanks again,
    Florida Mike
    (Formerly Nebraska Mike)
     
    mkmini likes this.
  8. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    #1 is a "accumulator". It smooths-out the pulses in fuel flow (caused by the pump's action) and also keeps a constant pressure in the system. Basically a can with a bladder; the air chamber behind the bladder acts like a spring to dampen pulses and to add extra pressure when the system looses a little. Just check if it leaks fuel. The system will work without it but is best to keep it if it doesn't leak.

    #2 looks like maybe a aftermarket fuel filter (metal canister inline type)? Does the hose size on one end match the hose going INTO the fuel pump? Often an extra filter like this is added before the pump (between the fuel tank and the pump's inlet) to keep any rust/dirt that's in the tank from damaging the expensive pump (which is a very good idea, especially if the tank is old). But this type filter should not be used AFTER the pump; the pressure is too high for it (that's why the regular fuel filter is so big). Otherwise if not a filter then I'm not sure...maybe a better picture after a little cleaning will help to see it better.

    The rest you have in the correct order. Test the fuel pump by putting 12V to it, if it runs it is probably o.k. (these are very robust). Replace the filter, then it will last a long time. Replace all the hoses. No need to buy expensive ones with the fittings already attached. Just cut the ferrules off, remove old hose from fitting, push on new hose (of proper size, very tight fit) and use the high-pressure "fuel injection" hose clamps to secure. Also flush out the fuel rail (back-flush if possible). The injectors may have been damaged by the fire, but try them first before buying new ones (they are kind of expensive).

    Message me if any questions.
     
    mkmini likes this.
  9. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Dr.Jeff likes this.
  10. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    That's it, you got it.
    The hoses and clamps on that side of the pump (inlet) are not high pressure so do not need to be anything special. That's also why a standard type filter can be used on that side. The diameter of the inlet hose is larger to assure adequate supply to the pump.
    The hoses and clamps and filter on the other side of the pump (outlet) are high pressure. They need to be rated for "fuel injection system". But the hose material is standard fuel hose, it does not need to be the cloth covered stuff like the factory used. If you use clamps rated for high pressure fuel injection (see below) then you don't need to have special "crimped ferrules" done like factory (clamps are available in many sizes, get as close to actual hose OD as possible for best fit).
    Z32FuelInjectionHoseClamps.jpg
     
    mkmini likes this.
  11. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Can I take off oil sump without deattaching gerbox? Does only deattaching long axle from diff help?

    Done with only deattaching long axle.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2017
  12. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
  13. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Previously someone informed me that I have to use cambox from 1500 engine - I don't have it, and shipping would be out of budget..
    In picture You can see where I'm going to put an extra bracket for dogbone. If You have better idea or good reason why I shouldn't do that - please. (Actually to get MOT here, homemade mounts or brackets for engine here are forbidden . So I'll need to make it look 36 years old :D to look OE)

    Folks with UT engines, could You please make some closeup photos for me?
    * intercooler - how You mounted it
    *oil rad, if You kept it and where located
    *

    22538284_1412558212173358_1329783071_n.jpg 22497813_1412558185506694_80172037_n.jpg 22523795_1412558255506687_1998258716_n.jpg
     
  14. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    There are two different lengths of dog-bones on the X1/9. Most refer to them as "1300" (short) or "1500" (long) lengths, but that is not necessarily accurate; some early 1500's had the shorter one. Mine has the shorter, I'll get a measurement of it for you. But this might not be the same for the Uno engine? Unfortunately I cannot offer any input for a UT install. But I will also look at mine when I measure it, to see if I get any ideas for where you can add your mount. It might be tomorrow before I can do this, sorry.
     
  15. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Thanks Jeff, put already engine parallel to line between struts.
     
  16. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Guess its too late to help, but the distance is 20cm. However that is for the 1500 X1/9 SOHC engine, so little use for locating your UT anyway.
    Sounds like you are getting close to it running?
     
  17. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Not far from running :

    Bought today some chemical with 25% orthophosphoric acid , to clean a fuel tank. After that will solder holes (or holes).
    Am going to finish all wiring tomorrow. Trying to find a good wiring diagram at the moment to ease a little that job.
    Fuel system and air pipes could be fully installed on next day.
    in the end of next week it could be running and fully assambled.

    There was 200 of small problems - like that bracket for dogbone, rusty fuel tank, broken all cables, no radiator, damaged ignition key, , issues with UT brake calipers - damaged bleed screw and redrilled wrongly .... repairing unexpected problems is 3/4 of time spent on this car.

    On my to do list left: repairing fuel tank and piping, cooling system, repairing clutch slave cylinder, changing oil filter, regulate handbrake, align sterring, bleed brakes and clutch, install heating valve from some other car, front and back windows, repair side windows mechanism. Front lights will leave for desert - so I will have more time to figure out what will do - put some different ones or just make them fixed upraised.
     
  18. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Wondered today about AFM - why it is before turbo, not between intercooler and intake manifold?
     
  19. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    I love your enthusiasm: you say this "in the end of next week it could be running and fully assambled.", followed by this "On my to do list left: repairing fuel tank and piping, cooling system, repairing clutch slave cylinder, changing oil filter, regulate handbrake, align sterring, bleed brakes and clutch, install heating valve from some other car, front and back windows, repair side windows mechanism. Front lights will leave for desert - so I will have more time to figure out what will do - put some different ones or just make them fixed upraised." :)

    But you have proven that is possible with your very rapid progress so far.

    Will the "X1/9 Electrical Diagnostic Manual" help (link below), or do you need something for the UT?
    http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/c/c7/ElectricalDiagnosticManual.pdf

    For the fuel tank, after cleaning and soldering, consider a fuel tank sealer product. I'm not sure what is available where you are, but there are several choices here. Examples:
    https://www.northernfactory.com/SPECIALTY_PRODUCTS/NORTHERN_FUEL_TANK_LINER
    http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html
    https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html
    http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html#
    http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

    Same volume of air must be drawn into turbo as can be exited out of turbo (physics), so no difference in performance of AFM on either side. However the AFM is designed to have the air drawn through it, so maybe safer to prevent potential damage if placed before turbo (easy to damage the flapper on AFM). And possibly the air flow is smoother before the turbo, and "choppy" after being 'cut' by turbine blades after the turbo? Maybe other reasons also, not sure, but seems always done that way.
     
  20. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Yup, wiring diagram for UT (there is no wire left from X19). Am using Haynes manual, a little bit complicated, but have to get used to.

    F92735EE-45D9-44C9-8D3A-7011B7FCAD06.jpeg
     

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