RED X19

I assume you mean "80%" throttle. I imagine he is saying to not run it hard (max RPM) at first with a new belt? Did he say why he thinks this?
 
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4000 RPM, he said that is written in instructions, and if there are are wrong noises, then keep throttle while they disappear, usually 3-5 minutes. if I will drop rpm then is going to be bad.

Is that yellow in picture oil pressure sender? And there should be wires for it I guess..

I already bought new filter, same size, but that gap looks too small :/
 
Interesting, I will have to look through some timing belt instructions for this.

Yes, looks like oil pressure sender and should have a terminal for a wire to attach...something similar to this:
fiat_parts_54-9663.JPG


Looks like there isn't even enough room to unscrew the filter before hitting? Time to make more space.
 
After a second look, that might have been a two-wire oil pressure sender; one for the warning light and one for the gauge:
562D9B0A-05CD-4D32-A041-DDCD0D6C4B84.jpeg


The terminals look more like the type under red arrow (ignore part numbers and extra info, only picture I could find):
sw-temp senders.jpg

The wiring follows this idea:
oil-pressure.jpg
 
Humm, from the article you referenced, the picture looks like a two-wire sender (same as yours) but the caption describes two separate senders; the one shown on the "crankcase" (like yours) and one on "the camshaft oil gallery". However this article may not be 100% accurate technically. Look for the correct sender's part number for the UT's application.

"9 An oil pressure sender unit is screwed into the crankcase to operate the oil pressure gauge. In addition, a low oil pressure switch screwed into the camshaft oil gallery actuates a warning light on the instrument panel in the event of the pressure dropping dangerously low (photo)."

index.6.gif
 
Noticed a minor correction needed on one of the images I downloaded. See the yellow notation (this is what I get for quickly steeling something from online):
oil-pressure.jpg
 
Thanks !
Later in evening will got that Lancia y10 turbo filter, together with distributor parts.

Read in another thread where You suggested that Volvo thing with holes for oil radiator feeding..

Anyone needs new one Mahle OC 501? :D (without cardboard box, that’s why can’t give it back to shop)
 
Read in another thread where You suggested that Volvo thing with holes for oil radiator feeding..
I think you are referring to this one:
X19_0453.jpg

It is a very good item, however this type of oil cooler (radiator) attachment adds more length to the oil filter mount, effectively making the filter much longer. Unfortunately your filter is already too close to the frame.

Another option might be an adapter plate without the provision for the oil filter. It mounts in the same way as the one above but the filter is remotely mounted, along with the cooler.
These are just sample photos for reference (need to find the correct size for Fiat block):
honda adapter.JPG

old school chopper.JPG


These adapters can be found individually or together in a kit:
download.jpg

The circuit connects like this:
circuit.gif


This way the filter can be mounted anywhere, as well as the cooler.
You can also add a thermostatic control to the cooler:
AT02-3_3_lg.jpg

diagramoilroute.gif
 
I think you are referring to this one:
View attachment 6006
It is a very good item, however this type of oil cooler (radiator) attachment adds more length to the oil filter mount, effectively making the filter much longer. Unfortunately your filter is already too close to the frame.

Another option might be an adapter plate without the provision for the oil filter. It mounts in the same way as the one above but the filter is remotely mounted, along with the cooler.
These are just sample photos for reference (need to find the correct size for Fiat block):
View attachment 6007
View attachment 6008

These adapters can be found individually or together in a kit:
View attachment 6009
The circuit connects like this:
View attachment 6010

This way the filter can be mounted anywhere, as well as the cooler.
You can also add a thermostatic control to the cooler:
View attachment 6011
View attachment 6012

Was considering this, but it was cheaper to buy shorter one Mahle filter for 4€.
If I understood correctly what have read somewhere, than UT engine already has thermostat for oil radiator.

By the way, greetings from winterland.
79CE029B-88D9-4F8C-B2B7-A0D12605D717.jpeg
 
I did not even consider the UT came with a cooler and thermostat...good for both. So if the short oil filter fits then you are set. Thanks to Rachael and others for all the excellent UT support.

Snow! Here it was 36 degrees C yesterday. :rolleyes:
 
Did I put timing 180* wrong? :/
Camshaft points to mark
Crankshaft point to one of two marks
For me it look that rotor points on cylinders nr1 not nr4.
 
First use a test meter to confirm which HT lead socket goes to which contact inside the cap. With the timing marks all aligned the rotor arm points to no. 4. From memory the dizzy drive is an offset slot so you cannot get this wrong. Therefore you need to insert the no. 4 HT lead into the corresponding socket on the cap. That would be the bulge on the bottom right of the cap as we see it. Then plug in the other leads in the correct order. You might need to erase and re-write those numbers, I suspect you have them wrong.
 
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Yes, it looks that example cap(tought that it is from UT) is 90^ different.

When installed belt checked few times, but anyway installed 180^ degrees wrong.

Distributor drive is ofset- there is very hard to make mistake.

Am correcting timing 180^ at the moment.
 
image.jpg
Timing belt has been set, cam and crank marks points where they must.

On flywheel I can’t see any mark. If it’s positioned not in order, could it make any problems further?

Sorry, that photos are wrong, took them through forum..
 
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