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1987 restoration project

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by DaveF, Jul 14, 2017.

  1. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    Its been a while since I last posted here, and a lot has happened although I still have a fair bit to do.

    Some of you may remember what it looked like before I sent it away for a de-rust and epoxy paint.
    DSC00019 3.JPG
    Well it came back looking like this.
    CIMG5699.JPG
    Then I managed to do this, with a bit of hard graft...I am pleased with the outcome.
    20160822_141245.jpg
    The rear end looks good too...
    20160822_141325.jpg
    Starting to put bits back on.
    20160902_153206.jpg 20160902_153127.jpg

    More pictures in a bit...
     

    Attached Files:

  2. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    I had the wheels powder coated Gun metal grey. You can just see the new suspension.
    wheels on 2.jpg
    wheels on 1.jpg
    carpet 9.jpg
    door seal 3.jpg
    carpet 7.jpg

    Currently working on the light pods.
     
  3. rachaeljf

    rachaeljf True Classic

    Location:
    Northampton UK
    Fantastic work!
     
  4. JimD

    JimD Waiting for Godot... Moderator

    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    Looks good from here! :)
     
  5. beezee

    beezee True Classic

    Nice work and thanks for posting the pictures!
     
  6. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Indeed it does look great.

    I am going to go and whine in my corner, my new 87 is much less a project and I am just crawling along. I need to create a thread on mine to document my progress.

    Looking forward to seeing further work on your car. Great job. Thumbs up!
     
  7. Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

    Dan Sarandrea (Phila) Waitin' On Parts...

    Location:
    Philadelphia, PA
    For fastening the seat rails and reinforcing plates to the floor, Bertone originally used allen head cap screws taking a 6mm allen key. I think you will find that they did this for a reason, the heads are compact and allow the upper seat rail to slide within the lower rail without interference.
     
  8. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    YES... you are absolutely right the bolts used on this side are just used to press the carpet down for now the other have the correct allen key bolts, and I replaced the with stainless steel.

    Dave
     
    lookforjoe and kmead like this.
  9. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    speaking of those bolts anyone have a source for them. I am missing a few.
     
  10. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Grand Rapids, MI
    MIdwest Bayless sells them. Not terribly expensive. I saw them on there recently but can't find them now. I would give them a call.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2017
  11. aarpcard

    aarpcard Daily Driver

    Location:
    NJ
    Where did you get the weather stripping corners shown in the 2nd to last picture? Mine are shot and have had a hard time finding replacements in good condition.
     
  12. sjmst

    sjmst True Classic

    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Ditto
     
  13. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Grand Rapids, MI
  14. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Your project is coming along great, keep us posted.
    What carpet kit did you use? I prefer this type with individual pieces that are edge bound over the one-piece 'molded' type.

    I also like your enclosed trailer in the background of the first two pictures. I wish we had one-piece molded-fiberglass enclosed trailers like that. I've seen them through out Europe but not in the US. They are lighter and more aerodynamic than ours (plus look better). Your travel trailers ("caravans") are also better in my opinion; small and light enough to be towed with regular cars instead of our huge trucks (that get bad fuel mileage). I've tried to get companies here to consider building similar options but no interest. Even considered having them built in China, but shipping doubled the cost.
     
  15. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    unfortunately, I can tell you why they won't pick up here in the USA. Our people do not take driving 1/2 as serious as most of their people do. We make up for it by setting stupid slow speed limits. and OVER sizing our vehicles.

    The Same reason we are having trouble finding 13-inch tires.

    Something I noticed from untangling the messes our drivers make out of the highways.
     
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  16. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    Yes Henk Martens supply them, if you look on his web site they are only sold as a full kit at a 139.00 euros.
     
  17. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    Every now and then I have a silly moment, so I thought I'd have a go at sorting my gear box. :p It needed some work on it as a remember it popping out 2nd and 3rd too easily when I drove back after parting with £850.00

    It was a bit grubby it needed a good clean.
    gearbox 3.jpg
    Received a good scrub....
    gearbox 7.jpg
    I first remove the outer casing housing 5th gear, this was in surprisingly good condition. Those nuts by the way were replaced with new ones, as were the bearings.
    gearbox 8.jpg
    I removed the indent balls and put them in a safe place and noted the order they came out.
    gearbox 22.jpg
    I loosened all the bolts from the main case, the diff wheel was easy to remove using a crow bar I gently eased it out from its bring clip.
    gearbox 25.jpg
    Perhaps not the best of focus but you can see the reverse gear was badly worn and needed replacing so this was added to the shopping list.
    gearbox3.jpg
    Next I removed the selector rods, once removed you can then remove the 2 main gear shafts.
    gearbox4.jpg
    You can now see a clear picture of the 2 shafts ready to be removed.
    gearbox9.jpg
    So now the shafts were out I had a good look for wear and and damage. Having a closer look at the main gear shaft I discovered that 2nd gear and the synchro were very worn the remaining gears were in great condition. When I put it all back together I replaced every bearing, oil seal, gaskets and anything else I've not mentioned with new....
    gearbox12.jpg . SO I took it apart...as you do!!
     
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  18. aarpcard

    aarpcard Daily Driver

    Location:
    NJ
    Great post!

    My car's P/O let all the bolts fall out of the driver side CV joint and as a result the axle slammed into the transmission case creating a 2" crack. Who know how long he drove it like that.

    When I bought the car, the transmission had maybe 1qt of fluid in it and there was A LOT of metal on the magnetic drain plug. I fixed the crack and replaced all the external seals (axle, preload o-ring, input shaft, and shifter rod seal), and filled it with synchromesh.

    Transmisison shifts well in all gears. Maybe I dodged a bullet, but all that metal on the drain plug tells me otherwise. Your pictures will definitely help if I have to do a rebuild in the future.
     
  19. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Grand Rapids, MI
    This activity is in my future as well. My second gear is complete toast unfortunately on my new '87 X.

    Care to mention any other elements of fun and frolic in this process?

    Thanks!
     
  20. DaveF

    DaveF I must be MAD!!!

    Location:
    Nottingham,England
    WELL... actually yes, I haven't taken any photo's because I got so frustrated I would only have launched the phone across the garage and out through the door and possibly further. :mad:

    I spent hours and hours in fact over a month trying to sort my pop-up lights. All sorts of weird things were going on...one minute one motor was working but not going off at the right time in connection with the Diodes that is...then they would both work constantly going up and down going out of sync and them coming back into sync I couldn't fathom it out.

    This went on for quite a while, I even took the Diodes off and put them on the other way this had no effect they just kept running I had to disconnect the battery to stop them.

    This was very confusing.....:( BUT I sussed it out in the end :rolleyes: when I re-wired the front half of the car, I chopped the main wire in the front bulkhead area and tagged each colour coded wire. When I replaced the front section with fresh new wire I failed to correctly code the Black and White stripped wires so I had them around the wrong way BINGO problem solved. They now work correctly.

    This is the section I ripped out you can see the tagged wires in the bottom right of this picture I transferred coding to the new wires where I made the mistake Oh well you live and learn....:D
    CIMG5882.JPG
     
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