780 Bertone - Nvrmnd - Volvo 745 Pickup Project

lookforjoe

True Classic
Chipping away. Set up the new MIG - wanted to try it on the tub seam

PXL_20220225_180226100.jpg


Practise butt weld. This was with the recommended setting for gauge steel. Lower the voltage slightly to avoid the blow through. Will need to get good at this for things like the door handle shaving.

I don't like the way the weld has so much substance on top of the panel, compared to using the TIG. Maybe I need to move faster, or lower the wire speed. Have to figure out the shield settings also, as I really can't see the puddle as I would with the TIG

PXL_20220225_180222940.jpg


Used the tack setting to work on the tub seam - works like a charm

PXL_20220225_183724137.jpg


welded & primed....

PXL_20220225_193211677.jpg


Decided to cut the extra 1/4" off the skin. I can play with the depth on the roof cut as needed from here

PXL_20220225_195001948.jpg


from 6.5
PXL_20220225_193142153.jpg


to 6.25, 5 7/8" exposed, the rest will be the weld lip. If I can cut the roof lip down to 1.25", I'll be at 7.25" off the sunroof opening.

PXL_20220225_201525751.jpg


flange forming is clean, the paint cracked is all

PXL_20220225_201542069.jpg


note: hinge bolt offset from beam

PXL_20220225_201636189.jpg


Also tested spot welding a weld flange with fusor 208b panel bond. looks like it will work exactly as desired. Seals the weld from corrosion, and adds extra bond strength. Should mean minimal cleanup & filler on the finished panel.

PXL_20220225_182448346.jpg


PXL_20220225_205617107.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Busy day today. Took some hours to get the D section to align properly with the forward section. I cut an inch off the forward section first, then about another 1/8" to get it right. Had to cut off about 1/4" of the underside reinforcement for weld clearance. Once I had it where it seemed even side to side, I stripped the weld flanges.

PXL_20220227_151922752.jpg


cut back the underside

PXL_20220227_192739718.jpg


Pics of the difference in roof line contour at the junction

PXL_20220227_162703315.jpg


PXL_20220227_162707922.jpg


This piece had to be cut off the door frame to allow the D pillar glass seam to clear

PXL_20220227_161534445.jpg


Not enough room for the hinge bolts - the bolts I used for the sunroof endcap are in the way, so cut those off

PXL_20220227_163602424.jpg


Looks OK!

PXL_20220227_165251873.jpg


PXL_20220227_183147494.jpg


PXL_20220227_183202939.jpg


Looks OK to me

PXL_20220227_183245239.jpg


stripped for seam bond/ spot welding

PXL_20220227_185656735.jpg


PXL_20220227_195926736.jpg


PXL_20220227_195944155.jpg


test clamp

PXL_20220227_194001632.jpg


After that, I applied the bond skim to both panels, and a 1/4" bead before assembling, clamping & welding the main section

PXL_20220227_210933599.jpg


PXL_20220227_210933599-2.jpg


Then I cut the roofline on both sides to taper the main panel, following the A-Traktor video

PXL_20220227_215517052.jpg


PXL_20220227_215727618.jpg


MIG welded these, more welding needed to finish them up, had to pack up before the sunset

PXL_20220227_222033227.jpg


PXL_20220227_222029794.jpg


PXL_20220227_215352631.jpg


Looks like it's not going to need crazy work to clean it up

PXL_20220227_215359633.jpg


It's really on there now

PXL_20220227_222818450.jpg


discrepancy in drip rail offset - that I will have to taper. I think I'm going to slot the forward and rear sections just inside the "T", so I can pull out the rear rail, and push in the front over 4 inches or so to balance it out

PXL_20220227_223005269.jpg


PXL_20220227_223013923.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Quick photoshop edit - slice rear section of drip rail about 3" back & pull it out to get gentle taper, fill gap, Be easier than cutting fore & aft

DripRailPS.jpg


also photoshop removal of rear door handle
PXL_20220228_215946771.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Worked on the B & C pillar reworking. Cut the skins off the original C pillar and the spare set of D pillars

PXL_20220301_223120762.jpg


PXL_20220301_223116002.jpg


If possible I want to keep the curvature at the base of the skin

PXL_20220301_224815236.jpg


original_32cf1a56-936e-4287-a60c-2f376cb10014_PXL_20220301_224826109.jpg


Possibly stepped out like this - a little inboard from the outer ridge

PXL_20220301_214244681.jpg


PXL_20220301_214309568.jpg


PXL_20220301_215134296.jpg


or inset about an inch

PXL_20220301_221007138.jpg


If I keep the lower stepped ridge, I will have to run that forward into the B pillar base

PXL_20220301_221123438.jpg


...it may not make sense to do so, as that is essentially where the cover molding would need to go.

PXL_20220301_221129260.jpg


For the "B pillar, I want to remove the rear door vertical, and skin the B with the original C skin, inverted to make use of the lip for the 1/4 glass

I'll have to fabricate a top section to tie it into the existing pillar top

PXL_20220301_215749568.jpg




PXL_20220301_215814341.jpg


PXL_20220301_215923820.jpg
 
Last edited:

Bjorn Nilson

True Classic
Compared to most Swedish tractor builds it looks like you have a lot of space behind the seats. Are you planning to have a rear "kids" seat as well? Or a twin 18" subwoofer😆?
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Compared to most Swedish tractor builds it looks like you have a lot of space behind the seats. Are you planning to have a rear "kids" seat as well? Or a twin 18" subwoofer😆?

The sunroof opening dictated the rear cab depth - without a sunroof you can pull it up another 2 inches or so, as with the A-Traktor builds. Since I have no legal regulations to follow, I can do what I want with the cab. I will likely just have/make some sort of storage box low down in the rear seat well. Once I can hang the gate, I can start to figure out what will take place in the rear seat area. Definitely not overblown stereo 🤪 . I only have the original head unit in there, and don't plan on changing it out.
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Worked on the B pillar today. Chopped off the outer portion of the window frame, the inner part will eventually be welded to the new skin

PXL_20220302_204404456.jpg


stripped the lower edge so I can tack the skin to the base of the window frame.

PXL_20220302_204429343.jpg


Tacked to the pinch welds, it's not going to be welded to the B pillar for a while - I still need to open the door for a while

PXL_20220302_212033301.jpg


PXL_20220302_212035531.jpg


pinch weld / glass seating lip lines up nicely at the top . I have to make a union to tie the top back under the drip rail

PXL_20220302_212116519.jpg


Stock molding will work with this, slightly modded

PXL_20220302_214513762.jpg


PXL_20220302_214622492.jpg


I like the way it looks, vs. the thinner door post

PXL_20220302_224009113.jpg


PXL_20220302_224014096.jpg

PXL_20220302_214901810.jpg


This edge will be welded to the B pillar, once I don't need to open the door

PXL_20220302_215914942.jpg


PXL_20220302_215909390.jpg


MIG welder is great for this sort of one-handed work

PXL_20220302_215100061.jpg


I'd like to use the stock moldings. The door molding will be cut where the C pillar will meet the door.

PXL_20220302_223714639.jpg


The base of the old C pillar, I'll modify to use as one of the 2x4 post inserts, That way I can leave the outer skin & use the stock molding. I'll revise the plan if it doesn't look OK when I get to the rail cap

PXL_20220302_224240091.jpg


PXL_20220302_224243194.jpg


Photoshopped the extension of the C pillar into the door, to see if this idea makes sense

DpillarPSD.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Had an hour today, so I got the driver's side pillar cover trimmed, door post cut & fitted

PXL_20220303_222025923.jpg


PXL_20220303_222032459.jpg


PXL_20220303_222030803.jpg


This is what I have in mind for the stake posts, so I can carry larger junk & not worry about it coming out. I don't think the bed walls are as tall as your average pickup, even the old small Toyota & VW's.

PXL_20220303_190335076.jpg


PXL_20220303_190339794.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
After finish this, You could make a hard top for the bed, that would look like this caddy which looks like 740 😅
I could, but then I might as well leave it a wagon :D - The vehicles I see with those caps, they NEVER remove them🤪

Only had a little time today, and it was bloody cold 😫

Spent some time making a continuation of the 1/4 pinch weld - this is to support the rail cap. Needs to run down the center of the old glass channel

PXL_20220304_221303619.jpg


In order to retain the stock molding, there has to be a gap by the outer channel lip, so this really won't work.

PXL_20220304_221404428.jpg


level with the rear existing pinch weld

PXL_20220304_221255674.jpg


So, I'm just going to weld an angle section that will fit in the channel. chopped off the rear section I had shaped, as that will cap the C pillar cutoff

PXL_20220304_224308604.jpg


PXL_20220304_224256363.jpg


The rail cap will overhang along these lines, so the indent where the pillar was is really not going to matter. To make it flush & then make a one piece molding for the length of the bed just doesn't seem worth it. I may of course change my mind.

PXL_20220304_224740266.jpg


PXL_20220304_224744441.jpg


The 1/4 molding can push up tight to the door molding, so no real gap should be evident

PXL_20220304_224302312.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Productive day today. I'll add some pics later.

Short video showing gate operation & lower valance temporarily screwed to doors to set height /offset, etc.


setting up C pillar cap
PXL_20220305_220204022.jpg


playing with the stock molding, rail cap placement relative to C pillar

PXL_20220305_225932084.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
OK - so started with a good friend helping me bolt the tailgate back into the roof. That was more difficult than I thought it would be - the gate has to be fully elevated for the hinges to tuck into the recessed mounts in the roof tub, and the harness needed to be in place first. After some finagling it was in!

George holding the lower valance that was cut from a parts car

PXL_20220305_150646565.jpg


PXL_20220305_150958933.jpg


PXL_20220305_152349311.jpg

roof alignment looks good

PXL_20220305_152124949.jpg


inside

PXL_20220305_152209676.jpg


only place the gate contacts the wheel wells - so I can beat that into submission. No tailgate cutting required!

PXL_20220305_151026445.jpg


Yay!

PXL_20220305_153757825.jpg


The next part took me quite some time to sort out. The opening between the door skins is 58", and the latch needs to sit approx 7" off the rear floor so I needed to chop some bits off

PXL_20220305_164515490.jpg


PXL_20220305_164524994.jpg


PXL_20220305_164532310.jpg


back & forth about a dozen times, marking & trimming small areas to get the height, width & fore/aft offset correct

base is too shallow to weld to floor, so I will be making a filler section to mate it to the floor

PXL_20220305_170616832.jpg



PXL_20220305_174715070.jpg


Ends will be welded to doors, and a joiner section to reunite the pillar with the base

PXL_20220305_175300817.jpg


PXL_20220305_175313286.jpg


PXL_20220305_174729373.jpg


An exterior panel will cover this area, joining the pillar to the door frame at the rear

PXL_20220305_174740734.jpg


PXL_20220305_180215905.jpg


Gate seal in place, gate latch adjusted

PXL_20220305_181458171.jpg


PXL_20220305_181550122.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Yesterday I also took the wagon downtown - to visit another friend....

PXL_20220305_205149154.jpg


....who, it turns out has an 8' metal brake

PXL_20220305_204053756.jpg


So, I was able to revert to my earlier plan of making the rails out of stainless, with a softer radius than the square tube would provide. Made them taller & wider than originally planned. 2.75" off the pinch weld base, 1.5" wide, 1.25" outer lip, with .5" hem

PXL_20220305_210205762.jpg


with them 2.75" tall, that gives me a better height to tie in to the front of the car

PXL_20220305_210047522.jpg


Made them out of 2 pieces, I didn't have any lengths over 3' left. No worries, I'm confident I can carefully butt weld that.

PXL_20220305_213207247.jpg


PXL_20220305_213231702.jpg


PXL_20220305_213225329.jpg


This connection will be fiddly - I'm planning on tucking the rail in so it doesn't protrude past the C pillar

PXL_20220305_213732543.jpg


PXL_20220305_220150725.jpg


PXL_20220305_213809503.jpg


Post cover will need to sit pretty far out on the ledge

PXL_20220305_220204022.jpg


PXL_20220305_221234384.jpg


tucked edge ties in nicely to the cross plate/gate frame

PXL_20220305_221553645.jpg


plan is still to cut the stock molding & make it work

PXL_20220305_220444619.jpg


molding along these lines - have to define Pillar contour into outer panel below

PXL_20220305_225932084.jpg


definitely work to do to make it flow & have clean lines

PXL_20220305_225947404.jpg


...and ran out of daylight

PXL_20220305_230308161.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Feeling under the weather today, so only futzed with a couple things I wanted to work out.

tweaked the backside of the panel so it will align with the molding

EDIT: Link to Volvo Parts catalog with bodyside moldings & clips

PXL_20220306_200149320.jpg


PXL_20220306_200211305.jpg


PXL_20220306_204010633.jpg


So ultimately it will be along these lines

PXL_20220306_205333378.jpg


Will need a fill panel to close off the bed side of the rear door

PXL_20220306_214753566.jpg


can make this in 2 parts, so it will provide the lip to weld the rail to on top. It will tuck under (and follow the rounded inner fender contour) the rounded horizontal base of the pillar.

PXL_20220306_213212326.jpg


PXL_20220306_214745037.jpg


pulled all the wiring from the rear, that I need for the relocated gate & the power antenna

PXL_20220306_224159308.jpg


I have to figure out what I'm going to do on the cab side of the door. I may try to cut down the door panel & make it work.

PXL_20220306_214804413.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Still really sick, so only a small amount of work today. Removed the seats, carpeting & lower trim

PXL_20220307_174745334.jpg


Gap that will need a fill panel. Gonna be fun to make a template that follows the floor pan

PXL_20220307_164932638.jpg


Re wired the power antenna harness (Junior Power Timer, female) for the new motor location; it will get set into the door, just have to remove part of the inner skin & make a mount bracket.Antenna cable runs up the cab side of the pillar, then passes through to the outer skin for the top 8" or so. Also have to add 2 M6 rivnuts to the C pillar for the harness grounds

PXL_20220307_152754238.jpg


PXL_20220307_174054560.jpg


Drilled the 2" hole for the rear harness pass-through - I will cut the rear harness (lights, fuel pump/sender, ABS, need to add trailer & lic plate lights) on the cabin side & add connectors so it can go through & be elevated against any water ingress

PXL_20220307_164153671.jpg


misc pics of cab side of gate frame, all require figuring out proper connections/ unification, to make sure it is sound.

PXL_20220307_163206176.jpg


PXL_20220307_163157370.jpg


PXL_20220307_163203079.jpg


PXL_20220307_163213436.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top