Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

[lookforjoe]

Just want you to know how much I enjoy watching you go through your builds. Fait, Volvo, house, doesnt matter very entertaining to me

Odie

Many thanks for the compliment

Working on the unglamorous bits - tying the beam & C pillar sections. Horrible work, as even with a leather apron, I'm getting burns from the MIG spatter Did the left side outer wedge & inner plate to match the right side

ground back, primed & seam sealer, both sides. Routed the gate washer fluid hose up the C pillar while I was there. Have to remove the roof at least one more time, so I'll address the hose pass through to the gate at that time.

forgot that I needed to weld the right side C pillar base into the door skin, so got that out of the way. Used 3/32" filler rod to bridge the gap

Still have to bridge that inner gap on the C pillar vertical. The visible gaps in what was the rear door cap are intentional - those retain the belt molding

lastly, I got some film to use on the edge of the lexan 1/4 windows - the Volvo glass all have a gradient edge to mask the bonding, couldn't find anything that matches

 

[lookforjoe]

Took care of the remaining welding on the right side cab window opening, and cut the 1/4 glass trim to fit

upper trim cut to length, forward vertical cut to align with the modified upper. Chopped it with the angle grinder, so I have to fix the marks I made in it

very happy with the way it's working out

I put the junction for the glass edge upper trim in a safe place when it fell off when originally removed, and now I can't figure out where that safe place is...

 

[lookforjoe]

Got the final welding work done on the cab upper - window frames finished, drip rails reworked, initial filler work. Have to clean up & get some paint on the glass openings, then I can seal the lexan in place.

left side filler

molding fits nicely over it

for the drip rail, I thought at first I'd add a filler section to the existing back drip rail, however that's too much work.

I cut them off, and added a replacement section tapered to fit

molding will fit over the sections

left side drip rail

ground back

some filler

more tomorrow

 

[lookforjoe]

Busy day today! Much sanding, filling & some painting

Had to make a Harbor Freight & Home Depot run when my palm sander died

cut down the drip rail trim

installing the 1/4 windows

some paint on it to unify the cab & cut down belt moldings to fit 1/4 glass

put the antenna back in

D pillar trim still fits, I made sure all the mount holes stayed where they belonged

 

[kmead]

Freakin’ factory…

Nice. So that will be your ride to MWB with the X engine you will be bringing?

 

[lookforjoe]

Freakin’ factory…

Nice. So that will be your ride to MWB with the X engine you will be bringing?

Hmm... The pickup isn't the best for long distance, it's not exactly quiet. What engine are you referring to?
I actually hadn't decided on whether I would drive out this year. Are you going? I have to check dates, etc., but if ppl I'd like to see are going, I'll make an effort to get there. The X1/9 will have the Dallara wing this time, and hopefully I will have rebuilt the motor prior, I don't like having to add oil every fill up

EDIT - Just saw that it is June 18th this year - definitely not going to be able to get there, still wrapping up the school year at that point, plus no time to deal with the oil consumption

 

[kmead]

Hmm... The pickup isn't the best for long distance, it's not exactly quiet. What engine are you referring to?
I actually hadn't decided on whether I would drive out this year. Are you going? I have to check dates, etc., but if ppl I'd like to see are going, I'll make an effort to get there. The X1/9 will have the Dallara wing this time, and hopefully I will have rebuilt the motor prior, I don't like having to add oil every fill up

EDIT - Just saw that it is June 18th this year - definitely not going to be able to get there, still wrapping up the school year at that point, plus no time to deal with the oil consumption

Yes it is my intention to go. I need some small measure of social life even if it is just the one weekend a year.

I was referring to your old X engine which you have no doubt already off loaded.

 

[lookforjoe]

Yes it is my intention to go. I need some small measure of social life even if it is just the one weekend a year.

I was referring to your old X engine which you have no doubt already off loaded.

Sorry I won't see you this year. I still have the 1600 - haven't parted it either, so it's still a complete unit

 

[lookforjoe]

Didn't want to do bodywork today, temps back in the low 50's - so I took care of some odds & ends and started cutting some of the interior panels to fit

rewired the fuel pump & sender connections to waterproof connectors

chopping up the beam covers

both sides

rear section has a clip that retained the rear panel

tub cover fit with some heat massaging, overlays the roof tub an couple inches, so I may need to cut it back to fit a headliner. I'd rather not

Started chopping up the right door panel & 1/4 trim to fit

Speaker cover retains the forward edge, top of panel has clips that lock into the door top

cargo trim will go behind it. I'll clean it up & upholster with camel vinyl, remove the gap/ open areas in the process

Door grab handle from early model 700 will help retain the panel

TBack to the outside - tailgate inner panel will need these two recessed cup handles to help lift it up, then I want to add the pistons to keep it even , and the limiter straps for when it's down

 

[Tom Ginefra]

Hussein, you are truly inspiring!

 

[lookforjoe]

Hussein, you are truly inspiring!

Thank you, Tom!

Another crappy weather day, so I worked on the door panel / trim some more

chopped up the rear section of the door panel to complete the look. Cut down the retainer cup & trim, drilled the panel for the grab handle, bonded the mated panel sections & put it in to check overall fit

Bob's 5 min epoxy

modified mount cup

insert

In place. Ultimately I will re-cover the panel & make sure there is no seam

B pillar & grab handle in place - the handle will get painted camel to match vinyl. C pillar lower trim will have to be resolved also. With all those retention points, I don't have to worry that the panel will ever move of it's on accord.

cut down the sill trim to fit under

overall right side.

This area may need some work. Can't see it from the front, but visible thru the hatch

with the rain, it made it easier to see the flow of the roof ridge where it transitions from the wider front to the rear. I think it looks OK, on the DS at least. The Pas side needs some refining (no pic)

 

[lookforjoe]

Didn't get much done today - some sanding of exposed bondo on the door/quarter & primer to cover it for now, until I can get back to refining it. After that, I futzed with the tailgate setup.

I want to add pistons to make it open uniformly when dropped. The lower pin will go in the hinge bolt - I already drilled & tapped another pair of bolts for M8x1.25. The standard Volvo gate ball stud will work well here as it is deeper length & will clear the slider rails.

I don't know what spring rate I really need, so I went with 40lb. I have some 15" from the Fiat, and 22" from the Volvo wagon...

the 15" won't work, as they don't extend enough, and compressed length is too long

The 22" would work (but are around 60lb, which is definitely too strong), with the top mounts set above the slider...

so I ordered 19" (compressed 11.8), which should end up around the top edge of the slider, we'll see.

 

[lookforjoe]

More sanding & filling on the doors/quarter intersection, really tedious work, IMO. Should be minor putty work from here. I have 2 weeks before the Carlisle Import Show, I hope I can get the D posts sorted out by then.

driver's side, I had to fill in some below the handle/above the molding where it sucked in when welding (because I went too quick)

pass side had a dip under the handle fill at the leading edge, couldn't see it, but could feel it running my hand over the panel. Feels pretty good now

I also started on the support/ties/hooks that help level the bed rail. Driver's side first

still wonky at the rear, however I should be able to level that when I make the D post caps to tie them into

finally, I put a strip of the gradient on the 1/4 lexan to conceal the inner trim overlap

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the gate

drilled & tapped the Volvo seat belt bolts, had the shoulder turned down to match the brass bushing I made

notched the slider frame/channels to clear the stud

struts positioned to determine upper stud location

only problem now is the struts are wayyyy to strong - so, I'll send them back & get 10lb'ers.

welded the angle flange (covered in black sealant in the pic) to the base of the gate frame to retain the inner panel I'm making

this one....

 

[lookforjoe]

Working on the gate & bed rail ends

figuring out how to deal with the transition from the bed rail to the D post, following the taper at the front of the rail. This also allows the cap to move inward following the taper of the rear quarter into the D post while maintaining the same width across the top of the cap

trying to work in pairs for once, so I can use the first as a template for the second for a change

I just eyeball the angle, looking at the lean of the D post recess, so left & right may not be exactly the same. I think I'm going to carry the creased hem around the back of the post to act as the unifying element

cut & widen the D post

to bring it out for alignment with the bed rail

end caps for tailgate rail

end clearance off D post, left

right

filling the sliced D post

shaping the side portion into the rail, have to determine the correct gap

adding a bunch of spaghetti to reinforce the D cap

back on it tomorrow - we have a week of crappy weather coming up

 

[lookforjoe]

Slow going today

Made the hemmed flange lip for the tailgate cover , spot welded & seam sealer applied. I also fitted the D post forward caps, after much back & forth - they required welding end caps, filling & spot putty before welding in place, as the gap is insufficient to allow that work after the fact. I forgot to take pics, I'll add some later

Urethane seam sealer on all the weld joints

cut the holes for the handles

urethane sealant

gave the under layer a quick spritz with some of the top coat mix

made reinforcements for the tailgate hinge pivot bracket, using a panel section cut from the spare parts car D post - I need to keep the stock opening to access the bulb sockets & taillamp bolts. This prevents the bowing of the nut plate completely. I may add a cover section for the wedge opening, but it's not necessary for strength. I will need access covers to keep water off the bulb sockets though \

seam sealer to take care of the welds

 

[lookforjoe]

rain today, so no outside work. I stripped the K24 so I can get the block reworked - my machine shop is going away over the summer, so time is of the essence for this...

pics of the rail progress - separation not visible from the front angle

EDIT - I think I need a step/shoulder in the end of the rail, or it won't look finished from the side 3/4 angle..

the outer rear tip of the main rail has to be lifted to level it..

lighter weight struts came - 10lb'ers - they work OK, giving the gate some lift assist evenly when opened. When pushed back, it's still possible to 'wiggle' the gate off center, so I think just ever so slightly heavier would be ideal, I ordered a pair of 15lb.

 

[lookforjoe]

Only a little time to work outside today. I got the stake holders in place at the rear of the bed, and the inner reinforcement for the left 1/4. I also added the tie downs I had bought some months ago - determined that the seat belt locations worked nicely to anchor them. I'll have to add a couple more at the rear at some point.

also have to figure out what to do about latches - I could make a sort of hinged cap that attaches to the this tab - it would pivot over and sit on the inside edge. The pull latches I bought (like Jeep hood style) won't work, no way to leverage them

 

[lookforjoe]

My AP students are driving me batshit, makes it hard to relax & focus on what I need to get done on the pickup.

I only futzed with the inset for the right quarter, and attached the tailgate inner cover. After that, I spent far too long stripping the carpet & glue from the factory floor cover, so I could apply marine-grade epoxy. I got the first coat on before dark

I will make the inset for this out of stainless. It will be about 5 inches deep

drilled the gate cover for retaining clips, and put strips of 1/16" closed cell foam on the contact surfaces to prevent vibration

1st coat marine epoxy

 

[lookforjoe]

Feeling much better this afternoon - This morning was hell, but now AP exams are done, all student work submitted.

Got moving on the 1/4 panel pockets, used my friends brake to make the inserts from SS

Determined that I can't assemble the whole thing & then weld it in place, the pocket won't fit over the base support in place in the 1/4 well

so, the pocket has to go in first, then the skin. I'll have to figure out a different plan for joining the inner & outer sections

spot weld seams layered with urethane sealant before welding - 3M 08367 was described as weld-through, so that's what I'm using for any seams exposed to the outside elements that are not epoxy bonded prior to welding

test fit in place, right side. Bottom corners will be left open for drainage

I'll have to add a filler piece after the fact, the outer panel won't go in place without a gap between upper & lower insets

left side

got some primer on the inner weld seams

still using the stripped side trim to conceal the gas filler & wiring until I get something fabricated

got another layer of epoxy on the rear bed floor cover. 4 oz resin, 2 oz hardener, plus 2oz acetone to thin the mix for better penetration. probably gonna need a 3rd coat, it's sucking right into the plywood.