780 Bertone - Nvrmnd - Volvo 745 Pickup Project

lookforjoe

True Classic
Worked on cleaning up all the oil cooler parts - fitted new o-rings after the ring seats were decontaminated

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layout:

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Got the exhaust manifold & downpipe off, had the cut the cat / downpipes bolts & pull it out as one. One stud snapped, below the surface :(

Got it drilled out with a left hand cobalt bit, and retapped. Gaskets surfaces all cleaned up

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cleaned up the block behind as best possible

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90+ turbo manifold, has about a 1/4" crack on the backside of #3 runner at the collector. Have to figure out if I can weld that. If not, I'll just use a -89 style

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Oil cooler parts cleaned up

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cooler upper mount bracket repaired - welded a new attachment tab

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After all that, I may move it under the support rail to make room for the larger IC - my son did that on his 240turbo

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Spark Plug shields acid etched, cleaned & painted

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Oil cooler t/stat & extension housing fitted, once I extracted the stock oil filter nipple. 1346984 support bracket from extension to motor mount.

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Had to pack it up - the rain got too heavy

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Got the WBO2 sensor SS bung drilled & welded

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Also drilled the oil pan & welded the 1/2" NPT bung for the turbo oil drain

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Got the oil pan swapped out today, and not much else - it's been so many years since I worked on a 'Redblock' I forgot what a PITA the oil pan is to remove & made it worse by following the online advice.

Bottom line, the cradle has to be dropped for the baffles in the pan to clear the oil pump pickup. The typical online directions claim you can just lift the engine & 'wiggle' the pan off. Yeah., Good luck with that. Transmission case presses up against the tunnel long before there is clearance for the pan.

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removed the 4 cradle bolts, disconnected the steering column, lowered the cradle a few inches, pan comes right out.

Removed the oil pump, cleaned it out & replaced the two feed pipe square cut o-rings.
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With age, these can push out & cause significant oil pressure loss. Typically around 200K miles.

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found I had the proper heat shield to save the motor mount from the turbo radiant heat

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got the oil cooler sandwich & lines properly situated - which leads to a new issue - the recommended +T oil drain setup doesn't take in account adding the factory oil cooler...

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ordered more fittings & 5/8 braided SS PTFE line.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Recommended 16" oil feed line is too short.
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Ordered a new one with an 90 elbow - that should work

Oil cooler & lines arrangement

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Got back to the wagon today - -10AN fittings came, so I figured out the drain routing.

Turned out the line I had aligned OK at the pan like this - just needed to be longer to reach the 45 out the drain flange

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So I made a new one the correct length - approx 11.5" braided hose + fittings
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in place

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fitting clears oil cooler lines

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after that I made the modified bolt needed to retain the downpipe (not available new) - large side goes through bell housing into block

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short side goes through trans cooler lines & down pipe clamp

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located some pieces I need for the body work - a sectioned r/s rocker, and extra "D" pillars for where the stock ones will need widening to meet the body/roof width midway through the rear doors where the cab will end

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Started test fitting the downpipe and hoses, IC piping, etc.

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swapped out the trans cooler lines for the turbo version - the bends are very different to avoid the turbo, etc.

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Everything fits nicely so far, with suitable gaps between components

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Ordered a 1 7/8" to 2 1/8" silicone coupler for the turbo outlet - the factory elbow & hose pushes the piping over the exhaust area - no reason to have it heat soak on my setup, as I don't have the stock airbox, etc., on the passenger side

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Air filter will attach over here - step couplers give a 2.75" ID for the K&N filter I ordered

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Have to figure out a way to insert the PTC valve that normally sits in the air intake between turbo & arirbox

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lookforjoe

True Classic
You really are an incredible plumber.

:)

LOL - Wish I could plumb my AC lines satisfactorily :rolleyes:

Decided that it would take up less space if I make the inlet pipe out of mostly tubing instead of hoses - especially as I need to allow for the breather fitting. just have to clean up these sections of 2.75" & weld them as situated. I ordered a K&N RU-4870 (2.75" flange ID, 6.5 length) filter

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Tacked the air intake sections together - have to add the extension to push the filter out

Forgot I had a 2.75" ID / 6.5" length K&N Xtreme - from the old LH2.4 setup on the X1/9

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The sun came out (rained all morning prior to that), so I worked on the trans cooler & new AC condenser install - the cooler lines were designed for the non-turbo , no AC 740 - so I had to spend quite some time bending the lines to clear the intercooler and AC condenser, and modifying the existing feed line.

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After that, I put the new AC condenser in, and tried to remove the AC lines from the compressor - they both broke, so now I need to make new lines
 
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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Working on old isht can be the isht.

So I assume you are also cross posting this to a Volvo forum, do you have a link to your preferred forum there or has that scene descended into the morass of VWVortex level of stupidity?
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Working on old isht can be the isht.

So I assume you are also cross posting this to a Volvo forum, do you have a link to your preferred forum there or has that scene descended into the morass of VWVortex level of stupidity?

Hello Karl

This one goes on the old Volvo forum - TurboBricks. That forum does have some challenges - but it's really the only meaningful one for the ALL RWD Volvos. There are a bunch of helpful guys - many DIY'ers over there, both good & not so good...

The C30 stuff went on the C30-specific forum, but that one is mostly dead these days, so SwedeSpeed is the next option for FWD/AWD platform.

You are going to stop by MWB Open House, yes? It will be nice to finally meet you in person!

Have a deadline now - Ann needs the wagon on Friday to cart supplies to her annual summer camp reunion in the Harrimans. I found that the hard lines on the steering rack itself rusted out while has been sitting - just as well, as they are pressure lines & would have blown out all the fluid in very short order. Got a used rack, but it has the wrong fittings on the pinion housing - Volvo has used 4 manufacturers - CamGear, ZF, TRW & lastly Koyo. You can use any of them, as long as you have the hard lines to the pump & reservoir to go with them.

I had a spare rack that matches what's on the car - so I just swapped the hard lines over. It would have been easier to just swap the entire rack, except that then I would need an alignment/Toe adjust, and I no longer have ready access to a shop where I can do that myself quickly.

spare rack
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rotted lines off rack on car

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dangling rack

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with that out of the way, I futzed with other odds & ends that need attention. Removed the turbo & stuff - I need to weld a 1/2" crack in the manifold & just got the TIG wire that can be used without preheating the casting - much simpler that way

YT vid:


I started test fitting the eFan shroud (modified) - but there is a significant issue. I already reversed the fan so it's inside the shroud instead of out, and bolted in place it will have about 1/4" clearance off the water pump snout, not good.

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I can cut the snout down to about 1/4" to allow the pulley to center, but that still means 1/2-3/4" clearance max, seems very iffy to me. Not sure how to proceed on this front yet. I can always put the fan clutch on, and cut down the stock shroud about 3" or so to compensate for the addition of the intercooler (which moves the rad the same amount closer to the pulley), however those definitely rob power from the motor.

Hopefully I get the Turbo cam installed tomorrow, weld the manifold & remove the intake to do the breather box & fuel delivery mods I need to make. Have to also wire a circuit that will fire the CSV under WOT to keep the motor fueled sufficiently under higher load.
 

kmead

Glutton for punishment
Thank you for the links. Always good to read about other cars and how stuff gets done. I continue to troll the local area for a V50 manual, my winter car need isn’t acute but could be starting in September.

Yes I will be at MWB’s open house, really looking forward to it. My other plans around that week are in flux like all of my summer activities.

Funny parts to see rust through, though the same lines rusted through on my old Golf shortly after I sold it. Odd that they had so many suppliers for the rack.

Is there normally a different waterpump on the turbo cars? (Given your clearance issues with the nose and the fan) or did they only use a fan/clutch?
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Cut off the water pump snout, leaving 1/4" or less for centering the pulley, also notched the fan shroud so it sits approx 1/4" further forward

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After that I pulled the stock camshaft & got the turbo version in

original cam
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Then it started pouring, so I moved inside & worked on welding the manifold & finished the air intake pipe

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added a 1/2"NPT bung, shaved the PTC & threaded it to match

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Rain stopped, so I got the manifold & then the turbo installed - located this little bugger (support arm) - essential to keep the manifold from stress cracking further

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Is there normally a different waterpump on the turbo cars? (Given your clearance issues with the nose and the fan) or did they only use a fan/clutch?

Same water pump. Models with eFan also had a different (larger) rad & Intercooler, water-to-oil cooler, so placement of the AC/IC/Rad/fan shroud sandwich is all set further forward on those.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Slow going today. Torqued the cam bearing caps - 18ft/lb - didn't get to finish that yesterday with the heavy downpour interruption. After that, I Got the valves adjusted (finally) - all were around .010" too loose - in the .023 -.024" range. To get the gap back in the .014" range I had to go & scrounge some .165-.169" shims, I didn't have any that thick. Cleaned up to valve cover - that took about 1/2 hour just to get the old gasket off & prep the surface. Then I replaced the distributor shaft seals (969330, 969331), reinstalled the the distributor, located the proper moisture shield that was missing, put a new rotor in (1346787), replaced the plugs (WR7DP, .030" gap, 21ft/lb torque spec), put new wires in. Put oil in it & cranked it over for about 60sec to get the oil pressure up. No sign of leaks from any of the new fittings.

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sky looked like this all day - dripping

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After that, I worked on getting the fan shroud & fan setup - first I had to get the foam in place between the condenser & the IC

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I plastic welded the end section back on after cutting down the Fan shroud to 17" for my earlier style rad

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reinforced the junction with an overlapping strip on the inside (problem is I didn't figure a way to clamp it to prevent the shroud bowing - I found this out when I tried to install it - the fan snout hit the pulley due to the shroud distortion

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Had to put spacers on the bottom edge to make sure the shroud didn't bow when securing it, so I used the plastic weld to secure them

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Notch for expansion tank hose connection

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So, since it didn't fit as is, I played around with alternate fans & shroud combinations. Ended up with the fan from my old V70, mounted in the modded shroud. Same overall design fan, but Siemens instead of Bosch, and the fan blade face is flat instead of tapered, so tomorrow I can recess it into the shroud another 1/4" or so

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hard to photograph the clearance - I put a 'button' in the rad to protect it in the event the fan walked forward.

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This shows the offset from the rad - more than 1/2"

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Got the fan/shroud sorted as best possible.

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nub on radiator - so if fan did walk inward, it would hit this first. My C30 has this feature
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clearance - about 5/8 I reckon

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On to other things after rad & intercooler piping install - getting the breather system hoses routed 14mm ID - 949701 & vac hose 976734

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NA have a 'flame trap" - similar function to the cyclonic trap filter on the X1/9

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Turbos use a straight through fitting 1332660

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Got the downpipe installed, filled the coolant & ran the motor until a little after t/stat opened.

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Have to pull the intake next, replace the breather box, wire in the WOT relay for the CSV, install the adjustable FPR & newer injectors. Also need to install the full exhaust w/ new cat & O2 sensor

and deal with this.... hopefully get all this done by end of day Thursday

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and wire the eFan

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forgot to add this - I added a support bracket to hold the two trans cooler lines to prevent them vibrating

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Bjorn Nilson

True Classic
Nice work with the Swedish Steel Hussein 👍👍👍. Did you use a Volvo shim tool? If so, do you know if it would work on a Fiat as well? The Fiat tool is hard to find here and I need to do so something about the tapping sound in my UT engine.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Nice work with the Swedish Steel Hussein 👍👍👍. Did you use a Volvo shim tool? If so, do you know if it would work on a Fiat as well? The Fiat tool is hard to find here and I need to do so something about the tapping sound in my UT engine.

The factory Volvo tool might work, as it straddles the cam & presses from above. I use one of the cheaper swing lever style tools, which will not work. I bought it back in the '80's when I worked on these regularly. The Volvo tool was too expensive to purchase then, might be available used now.

Did you buy that clean 740, BTW? Or still looking?
 
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