780 Bertone - Nvrmnd - Volvo 745 Pickup Project

lookforjoe

True Classic
Got the exhaust on today, then worked on the wiring for the eFan and the PTC

Using the Volvo 2 speed fan & relay - wired using the old AC fan relay signals (components 82 & 495) . I separated the Rad thermoswitch (224) from the AC circuit, using the AC circuit for speed 1, and the thermoswitch for speed 2

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of course the AC circuit connectors all fell apart when I separated them for circuit testing, so I'll have to deal with that

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Putting the relay and fuses on the coolant tank - but.... had to acid dip the bracket to restore it first

Repurposed the BL-GN relay feed (switched power from Fuse 9) for power to the PTC

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made a new mount bracket that attaches to the existing, to retain 2 relays and the fuse holders, final pics later on.

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Ran the engine until warm, and fan cycled a few times. Amazing how quickly the engine warms up now it doesn't have the fan clutch running....
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Worked on it all day today - a good 12 hours, didn't pack it in until after 10pm. Unfortunately it's not done - the fuel rail I modified is leaking at the NPT fitting I braised. I have a spare rail and another 1/8" NPT steel bung, so this time I will weld the bung in place. I have had success with braising and/or silver soldering fitting to fuel rail in the past, but this one is not happening.

pics of finished eFan control relay & fuse holders

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Bridge connector from Fuse housing to fan harness (used to plug directly into relay output)

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Finished exhaust

DP support

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Cat - into front muffler -


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over axle

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for the rear muffler, I had to make hangers to attach to the floor - the stock one had rusted away - they were same design as the strap ears on the rear muffler

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Got my custom fuel regulator pod installed, required cutting the nylon line the normally attaches to the rail & feeding that into the FPR pod

The lower line is the return - that also previously attached to the fuel rai, now there is only regulated pressure line to the motor

added quick-connect fittings where possible, make servicing easier DTR

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With that sorted out, I started on removing the manifold for prep & also to do the engine breather box & drain tube

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New box & drain tube installed. I didn't think I was going to finish this part - the old drain tube broke off inside the block & it took me about an hour to extract the broken sections. I was getting prepared to drop the oil pan again to extract the remnants.

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opened up the harness to add wiring for the WOT CSV trigger relay. R-WH goes to TPS, GY-BK goes to CSV, BK is relay ground (at intake). Relay grounds the CSV using TPS WOT signal to energize the really coil .

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Relay will go here - there is a spot for a relay to mount on this bracket. I will pull switched power for the relay coil (85) from the Ignition coil/ power stage unit
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Since the manifold woill now see positive pressure, all the line fittings need to be clamped/secured. Rather then deal with hose & fiddly clamps I removed all the stock 1/8" NPT fittings and added 5/32" (4mm) and 3/8" quick-connect style, and drilled the intake to add two additional ports

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getting ready to reinstall the intake

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Wired the WOT relay terminals

Pinout: 1- BL (+15) 3 - BK (31) 2 - R-WH (TPS 3) 4 - GY-SB (CSV 2)


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Another thing that came up last evening - I forgot about the fuel feed to the CSV, so I had to adapt the bung fitting I intended for just the gauge to include a feed to the CSV. I had several 4AN fittings and a couple of 4AN steel braided lines. I had to make the 8mm banjo - to- 4AN fitting at the CSV. Drilled & tapped on side of the 1/8" NPT branch T to M10x1.25 for the banjo feed to the CSV

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original layout idea - line routed under on the inner side, less stuff leveraging out off the elbow / NPT fitting

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That didn't pan out as the fuel gauge then sat higher than the oil filler cap - which I subsequently found out meant the hood won't close...

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where I left off around 10:30 last night

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Anyway, back to today -

Got the revised fuel rail installed with the welded NPT bung, all vacuum / brake booster / HVAC lines routed

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gonna need something to protect this from vibration

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added a support mount for the CSV feed line & gauge elbow. I may want to revise this DTR

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wired & installed the WBO2 controller

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Can ran really lean & uneven - turns out at least one of the reman 0280150762 injectors was defective. Unplugged them one at a time - one made no difference at all. Swapped them out for 0280155746's I had previously in the X1/9 1600 motor. I'll need to get the '762's repaired, as they are 20lb @ 3bar, the xxx746's I have to run 3.5bar to get to that flow

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Additional issue that arose is a knock coming from the pan - in extracting the drain tube, I must have bent the support/guide bracket such that one of the counterweights is now hitting it. I will have to drop the oil pan (again) to get to that....
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Took care of most of the remaining repairs / mods today

Drilled hole for IAT in the inlet pipe. Have to rewire the harness from the left front to the right front.

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After that I lifted the engine a little to get clearance for lowering the oil pan

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Removed the damaged breather drain tube guide

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reshaped as it makes sense to me

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reinstalled after a complete revisions - I rotated the crank & put my finger up in there to feel when the #3 big end came by. Can't see up in there, so I had to gauge by feel only.

After that, I worked on getting the AC compressor installed, and then making the line repairs to the compressor. In-between the thunderstorms.
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Up in the woods yesterday.

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My son has been here (from San Jose) the past couple days, and is using the wagon. It runs too lean at part throttle in boost until you get on it harder or downshift (15's-16's !). So, amongst other things to do, I decided we needed to move the IAT into the airstream, with it just hanging in the bay it was getting really hot. In order to nicely re-wire the IAT I moved the harness from the left to the right side. This meant opening the harness & pulling the wires back over to the passenger side where they originate. Harness also feeds the MAP, so much of it needs to stay where it is

Brown-Black & Green at the bottom of the loom
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pass over the brake booster

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harness combines with the crank sensor harness - snaked a wire from the right side, & pulled the BN-BK wire back through

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over to the right side, down below pressure switch on accumulator

also rewired the AC pressure switch & jumper connections (grey 2 pole in top center) , using JPT style connectors & terminals

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feed from here - NOT opening this connector as the terminals are good, and will likely self destruct if fk'd with

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new terminals , IAT connector installed.

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With that out of the way, I swapped the 20lb injectors for 0280155759 30lb injectors (used on Volvo V70 LPT)

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Reduced fuel pressure (from 4bar) to just under 3bar - should keep the injectors around 28lb. Engine ran VERY rich at idle initially (10's) - wasn't sure if it was going to work out - so I had Adam hold the throttle around 2K rpm for a few minutes & the AFR's stabilized in the 14.7 - 15.2 range at idle after that. Now the AFR's under part throttle/boost are much better - with the exception of tip-in under load where it is still 14's for a 'bit' and then gets richer as you get on it. I think it will be OK in normal use as we were exaggerating the condition to evaluate the AFR's at different throttle/load areas.

Boost is limited to a little under the stock range (so around 5-6psi), as I don't want to blow the motor & don't need this to be more powerful - with this small Mitsubishi 13C it's more than enough. Significant improvement over stock NA performance/HP


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AC lines I made - with support brackets to hopefully negate any flex of the line/fitting. Factory low side line was secured to the side of the compressor

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Up in the woods yesterday.

View attachment 49804

My son has been here (from San Jose) the past couple days, and is using the wagon. It runs too lean at part throttle in boost until you get on it harder or downshift (15's-16's !). So, amongst other things to do, I decided we needed to move the IAT into the airstream, with it just hanging in the bay it was getting really hot. In order to nicely re-wire the IAT I moved the harness from the left to the right side. This meant opening the harness & pulling the wires back over to the passenger side where they originate. Harness also feeds the MAP, so much of it needs to stay where it is

Brown-Black & Green at the bottom of the loom


pass over the brake booster



harness combines with the crank sensor harness - snaked a wire from the right side, & pulled the BN-BK wire back through



over to the right side, down below pressure switch on accumulator



feed from here - NOT opening this connector as the terminals are good, and will likely self destruct if fk'd with


new terminals , IAT connector installed.



With that out of the way, I swapped the 20lb injectors for 0280155759 30lb injectors (used on Volvo V70 LPT)



Reduced fuel pressure (from 4bar) to just under 3bar - should keep the injectors around 28lb. Engine ran VERY rich at idle initially (10's) - wasn't sure if it was going to work out - so I had Adam hold the throttle around 2K rpm for a few minutes & the AFR's stabilized in the 14.7 - 15.2 range at idle after that. Now the AFR's under part throttle/boost are much better - with the exception of tip-in under load where it is still 14's for a 'bit' and then gets richer as you get on it. I think it will be OK in normal use as we were exaggerating the condition to evaluate the AFR's at different throttle/load areas.

Boost is limited to a little under the stock range (so around 5-6psi), as I don't want to blow the motor & don't need this to be more powerful - with this small Mitsubishi 13C it's more than enough. Significant improvement over stock NA performance/HP




AC lines I made - with support brackets to hopefully negate any flex of the line/fitting. Factory low side line was secured to the side of the compressor
Nice looking red eft. I have not seen one of those in quite a while.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Car ran very rich under load with the 30lb'ers, so I located some 24lb 0280155703's. AFR's are somewhat move even - 12's under part load/boost, still kinda lean when under higher boost/heavier load. I may have to play with fuel pressure as well.

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My son drove the car this past week on his visit from San Jose - things that died during his stay -

Alternator

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ICM

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Blower motor also died - filled with water from clogged AC drain. No pic

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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Congrats on your test driver’s ability to ferret out (or is it create) the problems for you :)

Bummer but its bound to happen on a vehicle which has been enjoying deferred maintenance for a long time.
Car ran very rich under load with the 30lb'ers, so I located some 24lb 0280155703's. AFR's are somewhat move even - 12's under part load/boost, still kinda lean when under higher boost/heavier load. I may have to play with fuel pressure as well.

PXL-20210726-232250512.jpg


PXL-20210726-232256094.jpg


My son drove the car this past week on his visit from San Jose - things that died during his stay -

Alternator

PXL-20210726-232307036.jpg


ICM

PXL-20210726-232316654.jpg


Blower motor also died - filled with water from clogged AC drain. No pic

PXL-20210726-232327605.jpg
test
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
With the +T, the heater/AC vent control is an issue (for me). With the absence of vacuum for more than short durations, the vent control is not maintained.

I've added the vacuum pump from a S40 (P1). This required cutting off the stock nitrile lines & fabricating new ones to route as needed for the 740 layout

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brake vacuum switch

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branch for heater/ vent controls

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Pump works when powered directly - not under boost though. (EDIT - I need a secondary switch as the factory one is only intended to operate when booster vacuum is depleted) I don't know what the test values are for the vacuum switch at the booster, but I can't make the contacts close by applying vacuum or pressure with my MityVac, so it may a dead soldier.

Wiring is very straightforward - 8/84 is the vacuum switch, 6/114 is the vacuum pump. I can add a Honeywell adjustable pressure switch for the time being, however I want to the make the factory circuit work as intended when possible.

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Added the adjustable pressure switch - set it to switch as low as I could - approx 1psi

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Wired in parallel, so either switch will operate the pump as appropriate. I function tested the setup, and the pump engages as soon as postive pressure occurs. What I need to do now, is hook up a vacuum gauge & see how rapidly it can draw vacuum.

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In driving, I did not see it making a difference. I have also found that pre-94 non turbos do not have a vacuum reservoir for the manual AC setup - so I need to add one somewhere in the circuit

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on later cars factory unit (20) is installed behind the center console - not sure the surrounding components have the same form factor as my year, in theory it's the same HVAC unit & dash otherwise...


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lookforjoe

True Classic
Wrapped up the HVAC setup - added a vacuum reservoir, and got a new vacuum pump to replace the dead one.

Put a check valve back in for the HVAC circuit, T attaches the reservoir into the circuit

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Swapped out the washer nozzles for P1 versions

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Also noted that the head gasket is seeping oil down the block on both sides - visible by the knock sensor on the DS. Head is dry.

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Changed the oil pressure sender, and tightened the oil cooler extension housing main bolt - had a drop of oil on the underside
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Car has been running well overall - used it for several Newark Airport runs as it has the most forgiving suspension & ride height .

I found that I have an oil leak from the front of the engine - oil was running back along the oil pan lip & dropping at the bell housing. Turns out I damaged the new front crank seal when I installed it, AND I cocked the seal in the housing. Good job I didn't pay this mechanic 😁

This time I removed the housing as well, as it looked like oil was seeping out around the top right side

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Took better part of an hour to remove the old gasket & clean the block

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New gasket, seal, housing back on

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because I don't own the factory crank counter hold tool, I have to remove the radiator to do this job, so I can get the heavy duty impact on there to tighten the pulley appropriately

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The other thing that happened was the WBO2 sensor died - I had it about 8" off the turbo flange - AEM recommends much greater distance, however factory Volvo WBO2's sits even closer to the turbo hot side, so I was assuming it would be OK. I may infect just have had a defective sensor, however I decided to move it about 20" downstream to be safe

I had to send proof of destruction of the defective sensor to AEM to get a replacemernt

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new location

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