780 Bertone - Nvrmnd - Volvo 745 Pickup Project

lookforjoe

True Classic
Had one of those plastic connectors on the heater hoses break on my C30. Good idea to replace all 4 of those hoses.

Indeed! My C30 has about 110K miles on it now, so those hoses are planned. The ones I used here are actually the ones I ordered for my C30, the set I ordered for this car still haven't showed up yet (TascaParts.com)
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
wrapped up the work on the V50 yesterday -

new mounts

PXL_20211124_184621931.jpg


PXL_20211124_184445136.jpg


new seals for plenum - one was very crusty
PXL_20211124_181527289.jpg


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new breather box & hoses

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PXL_20211122_203340478.jpg


so.... ran the engine after all that, and got error codes for the cam solenoids

Screenshot_20211124-154724.png


So, I had to pull the crank damper, front covers & motor mount to recheck the base timing.

With the cams set, the crank marker is off

PXL_20211125_153509807.jpg


PXL_20211125_153430209.jpg




PXL_20211125_153308366.jpg


So, I removed the belt, and reset the crank & cam gears

PXL_20211125_162122577.jpg


PXL_20211125_162116915.jpg


PXL_20211125_162106969.jpg


After all that, I ran the car with the Volvo software & still got error codes

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Seems unlikely that both solenoids died as a result of the work. I tried cleaning them again, and checked the new seals for proper fit.

I've reached out to a friend who still works for Volvo, to see what he has to say
 
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kmead

Glutton for punishment
wrapped up the work on the V50 yesterday -

new mounts

View attachment 55371

View attachment 55372

new seals for plenum - one was very crusty
View attachment 55375

View attachment 55355

new breather box & hoses

View attachment 55356


View attachment 55357

so.... ran the engine after all that, and got error codes for the cam solenoids

View attachment 55361

So, I had to pull the crank damper, front covers & motor mount to recheck the base timing.

With the cams set, the crank marker is off

View attachment 55360

View attachment 55362



View attachment 55358

So, I removed the belt, and reset the crank & cam gears

View attachment 55364

View attachment 55365

View attachment 55366

After all that, I ran the car with the Volvo software & still got error codes

View attachment 55368

View attachment 55370

View attachment 55369

Seems unlikely that both solenoids died as a result of the work. I tried cleaning them again, and checked the new seals for proper fit.

I've reached out to a friend who still works for Volvo, to see what he has to say
Could it be a wire failure as opposed to an actual sensor failure?
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Could it be a wire failure as opposed to an actual sensor failure?

No, that would give an open/closed circuit code. Talking with the Volvo tech, the solenoids get damaged when you twist them out of the cam cover - I didn't remove them, so I don't know how the machine shop handled them. At leads there is a rational explanation for the pair of them failing as a result of the overhaul. It just made no sense to me. I've ordered a pair of replacements.
 

kmead

Glutton for punishment
Aahh yes the amazing characteristics of modern cars checking to see if the wiring is good…

Wish I had the software like what you have for your Volvo’s to talk to my Honda’s system, right now I am fighting having trouble lights but no codes and very little to go on as to why the light is on. Ugh, there is a lot to chase.

Edit

OK , well not having worked on a ‘modern’ car with all the bells and whistles (my last new cars were 2000 and 2003 so before some of the current crop of technology integrations), I see one can use a J2354 device to interact between a PC and the system with a subscription to Honda’s system. VWs has been reverse engineered so one an buy the solution outright with lots of secondary support and not need to subscribe, I haven’t found that for Honda yet.

More to learn.
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Aahh yes the amazing characteristics of modern cars checking to see if the wiring is good…

Wish I had the software like what you have for your Volvo’s to talk to my Honda’s system, right now I am fighting having trouble lights but no codes and very little to go on as to why the light is on. Ugh, there is a lot to chase.

Edit

OK , well not having worked on a ‘modern’ car with all the bells and whistles (my last new cars were 2000 and 2003 so before some of the current crop of technology integrations), I see one can use a J2354 device to interact between a PC and the system with a subscription to Honda’s system. VWs has been reverse engineered so one an buy the solution outright with lots of secondary support and not need to subscribe, I haven’t found that for Honda yet.

More to learn.

Several problems with the Volvo stuff - requires a $$$ hardware interface, and is the software is antiquated, and requires an old laptop running an old OS & version of Windows Explorer. The newer Volvo system is also proprietary, and requires a $$$ subscription. What I have works for the older Volvos (Ford ownership, pre 2014), but cannot be updated & the system clock has to be 'hacked' to fool the software. I don't recall how any of that was setup, I did it many years ago. I just have to keep the old Toshiba laptop alive, solely for this purpose.

For the AWD. on the C30, I have the bootleg VW dongle & software diagnostics to fault trace.
 

kmead

Glutton for punishment
Several problems with the Volvo stuff - requires a $$$ hardware interface, and is the software is antiquated, and requires an old laptop running an old OS & version of Windows Explorer. The newer Volvo system is also proprietary, and requires a $$$ subscription. What I have works for the older Volvos (Ford ownership, pre 2014), but cannot be updated & the system clock has to be 'hacked' to fool the software. I don't recall how any of that was setup, I did it many years ago. I just have to keep the old Toshiba laptop alive, solely for this purpose.

For the AWD. on the C30, I have the bootleg VW dongle & software diagnostics to fault trace.

Funny. I just resurrected two old Macs to run old software and be able to open old files (An original Mac Mini hacked to run OS9.2.2 and a second generation Mini to run Leopard the last OS to run Classic). Happily in this case the computers don’t care what year it is and are generally kept of the internet.

Yeah the Honda interface and the equipment needed to run it are an issue for me. The only windows laptop we have doesn’t have the Pro version of Windows and it needs to be a rather old version of 64 bit Windows to have the Honda software installed. Sigh.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Sketching ideas for the bed top ledge - I don't want the solid ridge most have in place, I want it more like the 70-80's Toyota with the rolled over lip

Now I have the spot welder, this will be easier to accomplish without distorting the crap out of the existing panel or the added sections.
PXL_20211202_162915621.jpg


PXL_20211202_162821275.jpg


existing sheet metal lip along 1/4. C & D pillar bases will need to be carefully cut & capped to remove evidence of their existence

Pics belong to "StiggyPop" on TurboBricks.

panelcrop1.jpg


panelcrop.jpg
 
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kmead

Glutton for punishment
The difficulty you face will be around finding the tooling to make some of those complex forms. This is something I face everyday. Many of the shapes you show are only possible with roll form tooling which you won’t find and can’t afford to have made.

I would respectfully suggest coming up with a simpler set of solutions to cap certain areas to create a consistent surface along the edge of the existing car and then a cap of heavier gauge material to mechanically attach to that for the “Toyota pickup” edge. If you look at the pickup‘s bed materials it is a formed part, which likely has a fold and hammer (hemmed) edge for strength out of more ductile steel to gain the strength needed.

You might get lucky and find an aluminum extrusion with some of the characteristics you seek for the ’edge’ in some of the open line extrusions out there which could be mechanically fastened to the steel parts.

I like the notion of the extendo tailgate to support longer loads. The drawer type suspensions will want to be as encapsulated as possible to reduce dirt getting into them and the lubrication being washed away while waiting to be used. How are you intending to do the hinge for the tailgate?

(sorry just now saw the pics of another person’s build)
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
The difficulty you face will be around finding the tooling to make some of those complex forms. This is something I face everyday. Many of the shapes you show are only possible with roll form tooling which you won’t find and can’t afford to have made.

I would respectfully suggest coming up with a simpler set of solutions to cap certain areas to create a consistent surface along the edge of the existing car and then a cap of heavier gauge material to mechanically attach to that for the “Toyota pickup” edge. If you look at the pickup‘s bed materials it is a formed part, which likely has a fold and hammer (hemmed) edge for strength out of more ductile steel to gain the strength needed.

You might get lucky and find an aluminum extrusion with some of the characteristics you seek for the ’edge’ in some of the open line extrusions out there which could be mechanically fastened to the steel parts.

I like the notion of the extendo tailgate to support longer loads. The drawer type suspensions will want to be as encapsulated as possible to reduce dirt getting into them and the lubrication being washed away while waiting to be used. How are you intending to do the hinge for the tailgate?

(sorry just now saw the pics of another person’s build)

when you say complex forms - you are referring to the section I want to use to cap it for the 'rail"? The D & C pillar areas I'll just make as I go.

The top could conceivably be cut from a square tube, and spot welded to the vertical inner inverted"L", that would leave just a dogleg section to connect to the top inner pinch weld.

I'm copying him for the t/gate design. I hadn't thought about encapsulating the slider. The pivot design in TBD, as he doesn't show any clear pics of how he resolved his, and judging from the pics, it doesn't look very strong. He relies on a removable support stanchion from the center of the tailgate down into the trailer hitch tongue to reduce load on the pivot

original_c8e560fc-04d1-419b-be85-405863ad5d2a_PXL_20211203_161759772.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
wrapped up the work on the V50 yesterday -

new mounts

View attachment 55371

View attachment 55372

new seals for plenum - one was very crusty
View attachment 55375

View attachment 55355

new breather box & hoses

View attachment 55356


View attachment 55357

so.... ran the engine after all that, and got error codes for the cam solenoids

View attachment 55361

So, I had to pull the crank damper, front covers & motor mount to recheck the base timing.

With the cams set, the crank marker is off

View attachment 55360

View attachment 55362



View attachment 55358

So, I removed the belt, and reset the crank & cam gears

View attachment 55364

View attachment 55365

View attachment 55366

After all that, I ran the car with the Volvo software & still got error codes

View attachment 55368

View attachment 55370

View attachment 55369

Seems unlikely that both solenoids died as a result of the work. I tried cleaning them again, and checked the new seals for proper fit.

I've reached out to a friend who still works for Volvo, to see what he has to say

To wrap this one up, I pulled the rear cam plugs and reluctors, and installed the cam locking tool to confirm the cams were properly set relative to the gears. They were. I then replaced the solenoids and all is right with the engine now.

intake cam
PXL_20211205_181347143.jpg

exhaust cam
PXL_20211205_181335081.jpg


PXL_20211205_181056459.jpg


PXL_20211205_181108457.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Other sketches with thoughts on roof/bed sections

I don't want to put full skins over the inner side panels, I'd like to keep the bed as wide as possible - if I just fill the cutouts it should suffice, I think
original_cc821316-4420-477c-9d5b-9b9d378d73ce_PXL_20220103_171025166.jpg


To reduce the roof depth for the tailgate reinforcement (that interferes with sunroof framing) I want to see if I can recess the tail section to allow the whole gate to come forward a couple inches compared to the reference vehicles

PXL_20211223_163547227.jpg


offsetting the tailgate inner panel to reduce overall depth, compared to flush versions

PXL_20211223_163625693.jpg


PXL_20220104_181225207.jpg

some reference diagrams

Screen Shot 2021-12-24 at 2.36.31 PM.png


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lookforjoe

True Classic
Put the snows on my cars & my Mums C30 yesterday

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Where I stash the wheels, under the back vestibule

PXL_20211228_210645720.jpg


picked up more sheet metal for the conversion from a Volvo guy in Jersey.

PXL-20211228-163046582.jpg


saw a Polestar on the way home

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stripped the rear interior & headliner

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PXL-20211228-203241292.jpg


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bagged it all for now

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stowed the metal sections

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running out of room

PXL-20211228-210704896.jpg


cut the headliner down for now

PXL-20211228-211008962.jpg


need to start figuring out where I'm going to make the cuts. Want to map it out so I can start in March/April
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Video supplied by another TB member:


Process details are very, very helpful!

using wire to fill the gap - I was assuming this would be the most practical solution - I'll try 3/32" SS rod for this

Screen-Shot-2021-12-29-at-9-40-17-AM.png


using a filler strip between the roof sections - not sure what advantage that gives (as opposed to stepping one of the factory panels as Stiggypop did)

Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.41.47 AM.png


slotting the forward roof so it can be tapered to align with narrower rear, makes sense

Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.44.57 AM.png


Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.57.58 AM.png


Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.57.00 AM.png


why the pie cut though?

Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 7.47.18 PM.png


Screen Shot 2021-12-31 at 8.38.30 AM.png

wish there were more shots of the integration of the inner reinforcement - that is tricky since the D pillar area is flat vs. horizontal in the B pillar area. I'd like to be able to weld the structure under the roof skin, not just the inner seams

Screen-Shot-2021-12-29-at-10-18-30-AM.png


Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.55.26 AM.png


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tidy handle shaving

Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.51.47 AM.png


framing the floor - I'm hoping to use the full tailgate, so something along these lines may make sense for base support of the rear latch floor section I have cut from another wagon. Have to leave channels for the eBrake cable servicing, and a stud plate for the torque arm base to replace the one that integrates the seat back pivot base

Screen Shot 2021-12-29 at 9.42.27 AM.png


I'm looking at the tie plate he added to the base of the door, to weld to the sill

Screen-Shot-2021-12-29-at-9-09-46-PM.png


Screen Shot 2021-12-30 at 9.18.31 PM.png

Screen-Shot-2021-12-29-at-9-53-19-AM.png
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
Worked on the template for the bed rails

It wall basically be this - a ridge with the moulding below it

PXL-20211230-162447969.jpg


forgot to put this one in - Archie helping out

PXL_20211230_184434914.jpg


It will be a 2 part full length rail - I just made a short inner test section as it's very fiddly. 1.25" wide, 1.75" tall, .75" outer fold

PXL-20211230-175438094.jpg


PXL-20211230-181636444.jpg


Approx 1.75" off the pinch weld

PXL-20211230-181837465.jpg


plan will be to spot weld as shown, spaced appropriately

PXL-20211230-181731486.jpg


I'd want the finished rail to have a 1/8" tuck to the bottom edge

PXL-20211230-181822629.jpg


inside edge will be angled to match inner 1/4 panel, and spot welded for additional rigidity

PXL-20211230-184015533.jpg
 
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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Lots going on there. I will spend some time looking at it.

I suspect you will find the rear most part of the roof is narrower than the section right behind the drivers door so the pie cut is to deal with the mismatch of the B pillar width to the D pillar area’s width.

Most cars taper to the rear.
 
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