Working on old isht can be the isht.
So I assume you are also cross posting this to a Volvo forum, do you have a link to your preferred forum there or has that scene descended into the morass of VWVortex level of stupidity?
Hello Karl
This one goes on the old Volvo forum - TurboBricks. That forum does have some challenges - but it's really the only meaningful one for the
ALL RWD Volvos. There are a bunch of helpful guys - many DIY'ers over there, both good & not so good...
The C30 stuff went on the C30-specific forum, but that one is mostly dead these days, so SwedeSpeed is the next option for FWD/AWD platform.
You are going to stop by MWB Open House, yes? It will be nice to finally meet you in person!
Have a deadline now - Ann needs the wagon on Friday to cart supplies to her annual summer camp reunion in the Harrimans. I found that the hard lines on the steering rack itself rusted out while has been sitting - just as well, as they are pressure lines & would have blown out all the fluid in very short order. Got a used rack, but it has the wrong fittings on the pinion housing - Volvo has used 4 manufacturers - CamGear, ZF, TRW & lastly Koyo. You can use any of them, as long as you have the hard lines to the pump & reservoir to go with them.
I had a spare rack that matches what's on the car - so I just swapped the hard lines over. It would have been easier to just swap the entire rack, except that then I would need an alignment/Toe adjust, and I no longer have ready access to a shop where I can do that myself quickly.
spare rack
rotted lines off rack on car
dangling rack
with that out of the way, I futzed with other odds & ends that need attention. Removed the turbo & stuff - I need to weld a 1/2" crack in the manifold & just got the TIG wire that can be used without preheating the casting - much simpler that way
YT vid:
I started test fitting the eFan shroud (modified) - but there is a significant issue. I already reversed the fan so it's inside the shroud instead of out, and bolted in place it will have about 1/4" clearance off the water pump snout, not good.
I can cut the snout down to about 1/4" to allow the pulley to center, but that still means 1/2-3/4" clearance max, seems very iffy to me. Not sure how to proceed on this front yet. I can always put the fan clutch on, and cut down the stock shroud about 3" or so to compensate for the addition of the intercooler (which moves the rad the same amount closer to the pulley), however those definitely rob power from the motor.
Hopefully I get the Turbo cam installed tomorrow, weld the manifold & remove the intake to do the breather box & fuel delivery mods I need to make. Have to also wire a circuit that will fire the CSV under WOT to keep the motor fueled sufficiently under higher load.