'80 EFI X 1/9...how long until this engine goes *pop*??? Everyone commenting is GOLD!!!

jimmyx said:
Karl has mapped out a game plan to follow very well. It all depends on your expectations and your skill set. Yes, rust issues can be addressed assuming your enjoy spending hours with an angle grinder and a welder. Unless you can paint, plan on that, along with the purchase price of the car consuming your initial budget before you get to the mechanical needs the car is already known to have. There is no harm taking a look at this one, but don't be in a rush to buy the first one that comes along. I recently sold a 50,000 mile, zero rust example that needed absolutely nothing for just under your budget (including shipping from CA to the East coast), so nice cars can still be found. You'll probably have to kiss a few frogs before the prince shows up though. One rule of classic car ownership that generally ends poorly is purchasing a "tweener". A clean rust free shell for little money, or a car with little to no needs is usually a safer bet than the "in between" cars that look nicer than the shell but in the end needed everything done anyway. You have a reasonable budget to work with, so the decision you need to make is if you want something to drive and enjoy with some tinkering now and then, or jump into a protracted restoration that will likely sideline your driving plans to some future date. Best of luck in your search whichever path you decide to take!
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Thank you all. I will look at and drive the car, but unless it is offered for a great deal, I will keep looking for a more solid car. I want something I can drive, not something I have to sink my life savings into to restore from day 1. This appears to be such a car.

Today is out of the question: rain in the forecast. I'm waiting for him to give me a day/time when we can meet and go over the car.
 
jimmyx said:
Karl has mapped out a game plan to follow very well. It all depends on your expectations and your skill set. Yes, rust issues can be addressed assuming your enjoy spending hours with an angle grinder and a welder. Unless you can paint, plan on that, along with the purchase price of the car consuming your initial budget before you get to the mechanical needs the car is already known to have. There is no harm taking a look at this one, but don't be in a rush to buy the first one that comes along. I recently sold a 50,000 mile, zero rust example that needed absolutely nothing for just under your budget (including shipping from CA to the East coast), so nice cars can still be found. You'll probably have to kiss a few frogs before the prince shows up though. One rule of classic car ownership that generally ends poorly is purchasing a "tweener". A clean rust free shell for little money, or a car with little to no needs is usually a safer bet than the "in between" cars that look nicer than the shell but in the end needed everything done anyway. You have a reasonable budget to work with, so the decision you need to make is if you want something to drive and enjoy with some tinkering now and then, or jump into a protracted restoration that will likely sideline your driving plans to some future date. Best of luck in your search whichever path you decide to take!
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Well, the seller called me out of the blue and was insistent I see the car and drive it today, if I was available.

Don't threaten me with a good time.

I fit in it well (I knew I would), and the car looked pretty good in person. After driving it, the missing syncro on 3rd became more evident, as did the engine ticking. I didn't go beyond 4500 RPM out of respect, but she seems to run, turn, shift and stop rather nicely---excluding 3rd gear and the engine ticking.

In the end, he and I were pretty far away on price.

Car certainly will need a gearbox rebuild, and an engine rebuild very shortly. Also, the rear valance and both sections behind the rear wheels need to be cut out and patched with new steel. This also goes for the door skins, and the channel the bottom of the windshield rests in is also on it's way out. Underneath, I could only determine everything was oily, for what that's worth.

My budget is $10k, so I'm just going to have to wait on another car.

I wished him well in the end, and today confirmed I will have my own X 1/9...but it needs to be a stronger car than this. This car was much too expensive for all the work needed.

Still looking for a good non-Bertone EFI X 1/9...I'm a patient man.
 
WantAnX1/9 said:
Well, the seller called me out of the blue and was insistent I see the car and drive it today, if I was available.

Don't threaten me with a good time.

I fit in it well (I knew I would), and the car looked pretty good in person. After driving it, the missing syncro on 3rd became more evident, as did the engine ticking. I didn't go beyond 4500 RPM out of respect, but she seems to run, turn, shift and stop rather nicely---excluding 3rd gear and the engine ticking.

In the end, he and I were pretty far away on price.

Car certainly will need a gearbox rebuild, and an engine rebuild very shortly. Also, the rear valance and both sections behind the rear wheels need to be cut out and patched with new steel. This also goes for the door skins, and the channel the bottom of the windshield rests in is also on it's way out. Underneath, I could only determine everything was oily, for what that's worth.

My budget is $10k, so I'm just going to have to wait on another car.

I wished him well in the end, and today confirmed I will have my own X 1/9...but it needs to be a stronger car than this. This car was much too expensive for all the work needed.

Still looking for a good non-Bertone EFI X 1/9...I'm a patient man.
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Patience is a virtue, especially when engaged in the hunt. Never fear, just when it looks hopeless that unicorn will appear out of nowhere and you'll actually have the budget to snatch it up. Look on the positive side, at least you got to drive one. Wanna take a guess how many X heads involved in recommissioning their cars would love to be able to do that - more than you'd think ;)
 
I would respectfully suggest a Bertone one would be as good or better than a ‘Fiat’ one. Many features are notably superior.

However to each his own.
 
JimD said:
Gotta ask.... why "non-Bertone"?
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Too "Radwood" for my taste. Not throwing rocks at anyone's tastes, but I like the earlier cars. Yes, I will be backdating the twin beam bumpers of a 1500 to the blade style of the early Euro 1300 cars.

I also don't really go for the dual tone paint schemes of a lot of the Bertone cars. One color for my car, thanks.
 
WantAnX1/9 said:
Too "Radwood" for my taste. Not throwing rocks at anyone's tastes, but I like the earlier cars. Yes, I will be backdating the twin beam bumpers of a 1500 to the blade style of the early Euro 1300 cars.

I also don't really go for the dual tone paint schemes of a lot of the Bertone cars. One color for my car, thanks.
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If our ‘74 had the 5-speed, 1500 engine, that would be the only thing to make it perfect. But yes, there’s something simple about the original X1/9 that feels just right :)
 
WantAnX1/9 said:
I also don't really go for the dual tone paint schemes of a lot of the Bertone cars. One color for my car, thanks.
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I agree about most of the 2 tones. Not my favorites. My 85 was originally champagne over black, but fortunately the PO already had it de-bumpered and 90% in primer when I bought it. It was pretty much a blank canvas. Don't forget that the later Bertones had the upgraded fuse panel with modern fuses. It is a nice upgrade from the small Fiat fuse box with the spring clips and ceramic fuses. There were single color Bertones, seems like those were mostly black or red. In 87 there was a teal-ish X as well.



IM002633.JPG
 
tvmaster said:
If our ‘74 had the 5-speed, 1500 engine, that would be the only thing to make it perfect. But yes, there’s something simple about the original X1/9 that feels just right :)
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Yes, the original was more pure to my eye.

A lime green Euro-spec '74 w the EFI and 5-speed would be heaven.
 
I like them all, but when it comes to ownership I draw the line at '78. For me '74 is optimal, but the early dash cars are a close 2nd. I usually have more than a few projects going at once, most are heavily modified restomods so I'm certainly not in the purist camp, but I am drawn to 1st year "as designed" vehicles. Depending on length of life cycle, cars tend to morph into something quite different from what was originally conceived. 240Z, Miata, Fiero, MR2, Lotus Esprit, and on and on have morphed into something very different from their initial introduction. Not to say progress is bad, but from a purity of design perspective most are substantially different visually. Some like the original, some like the new and improved; it's what makes the automotive world diverse. The X had some limited creep from introduction to end of production, but luckily the lack of "face lift" budget kept the departure from original intent somewhat in check. Whichever your X of choice, they are all fun and surprisingly similar for a vehicle with such a long life cycle.
 
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tvmaster said:
That Blue 74 I mentioned? A classic car must have either bought it, or are selling it for the guy from SoCal. Lol. He bought it for $6500 if I recall correctly - early this year. That’s some kind of inflation:

https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1974/fiat/x1_9/101511521
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My only response to this ad ("rust") for that price is: "Nice price or crack pipe?"

CRACK PIPE.

At least the green one in Canada is fit for the lawn of the Concorse Italiano...This is a 20 footer priced like something off the showroom floor.
 
WantAnX1/9 said:
My only response to this ad ("rust") for that price is: "Nice price or crack pipe?"

CRACK PIPE.

At least the green one in Canada is fit for the lawn of the Concorse Italiano...This is a 20 footer priced like something off the showroom floor.
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Keep in mind that likely the best example of a US '74 is also in the Detroit area.
 
kmead said:
Keep in mind that likely the best example of a US '74 is also in the Detroit area.
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For that kind of money, it better be a bare shell rotisserie restoration. A car that needs nothing, not a 20 footer that needs to be taken down to bare metal and have new steel patched in, along with a fresh repaint.

Some people are on another planet.

"Yeah, my car has extensive rust in several structural areas including the windshield...and my gearbox and engine need a full rebuild...but I want $12k."

I love the X 1/9, I really do...but I expect for that money all, or most of the heavy lifting is done.

If it is showing rust, there is more underneath. $5k, tops. Why? Because, I'm taking it down to bare steel to stop the rot, and my offer reflects this.

I'm probably having to go to Nevada or Arizona to get a sunburned X...but I'd rather replace all the seals, then have to rebuild the body from bare metal on up.

Cars above the Mason-Dixon line just are iron oxide and Bondo. So depressing to see beauty fall away like this.

Still love these cars and I will own one. But why am I paying a premium for rust when I can get it for free? lol
 
Again, my budget is $10k. I'm not cheap, but I want a solid car for my hard earned money.
 
JimD said:
I agree about most of the 2 tones. Not my favorites. My 85 was originally champagne over black, but fortunately the PO already had it de-bumpered and 90% in primer when I bought it. It was pretty much a blank canvas. Don't forget that the later Bertones had the upgraded fuse panel with modern fuses. It is a nice upgrade from the small Fiat fuse box with the spring clips and ceramic fuses. There were single color Bertones, seems like those were mostly black or red. In 87 there was a teal-ish X as well.



View attachment 50020
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Gotta admit, that teal is tasty.
 
WantAnX1/9 said:
Again, my budget is $10k. I'm not cheap, but I want a solid car for my hard earned money.
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Understood but values have changed.

Have you looked at prices for any Porsche 356? Any 356 in any condition will sell for surprising money.
 
kmead said:
Understood but values have changed.

Have you looked at prices for any Porsche 356? Any 356 in any condition will sell for surprising money.
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If 10k won't buy me a solid driver, then I'm not moving further.

Also, 356 is apples to oranges. The last one was built in, what 1964?

Also, winning LeMans 19 times helps in brand cachet.

A rotted out X 1/9 isn't worth $10k.

I watch Bring A Trustfund, eBay and Hemmings. Clean, sorted cars bring and deserve $15k-upwards. Rotboxes still tend to go for $3-$5k. Then there are the cars somewhere in the middle.

This is where I am looking.

Nice examples on eBay still go for under $9k... usually less.

You have outliers that go for $25k...but these are Series 1 cars that need nothing, the best on earth.

I'm looking for a solid driver that needs an engine rebuild, a gearbox rebuild, perhaps some bodywork. I'm patient. I really only just started looking seriously this month after walking away from the hunt two years ago.

I'm grateful I'm in a career that can help me indulge such a passion. I plan on working all the overtime I can over the winter and worst case?

I fly out to California and buy a sorted car and have it shipped home while I'm on paid vacation.

I will have my X 1/9. I love, love, love these cars. I'm buying a good car, though.
 
I would be careful of using eBay as a meter. There are plenty of clams across the country :)

I am with you on getting the best body possible, as I am very comfortable with mechanical bits I am concerned less with that aspect.

Agreed many do have an outsized belief in the value of all cars right now.

In any case looking forward to reading more of your quest.
 
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