850 electric fuel pump conversion (safety switch)

Jeff Stich

True Classic
As part of the ever-ongoing rebuild of my 850 Sport Coupe, I'm converting the fuel delivery system from a mechanical pump to an electric pump. When I've done this on my 850's in the past, I simply ran a wire from the "+" terminal on the ignition coil to the electric pump in order to power the pump. Works great, but not so safe in an accident.

For this install, I figured I'd do a safer conversion by adding an emergency cut-off switch to automatically kill the power feed to the pump in case of an accident. Some folks use an engine oil pressure-activated switch to do this, which cuts power to the pump if the oil pressure dies (due to engine shut-off). Nice to have, but what if the engine doesn't just die?

Instead, I'll be using a "modern" roll-over safety valve (aka: fuel pump inertial switch) to cut power to the electric pump. This way, pump power will be cut upon impact should the car be involved in an accident, so the pump won't be dumping fuel (causing a fire) & the engine will (eventually) turn off (die) from fuel starvation. These switches come in various shapes & sizes, some inexpensive & some not. I'm using the factory switch found in various 2000-on Ford vans/suv's/cars (E-350, E-250, Expedition, Excursion, Mustang, etc.), mainly because they're cheap & widely available in my local junkyards, & simple to install. The one I'm using looks like this:

FFPIS.jpg

I've mounted the electric pump on the left engine bay wall, where the VIN tag is normally located on early 850's. For easy access & testing (if ever necessary), I want to mount this switch in the engine bay, preferably near the fuel pump. Problem is, this switch is too "modern" looking & just plain fugly to put in my 850 engine bay as-is, so I decided to disguise it by making a metal cover to fit over it. After a few failed attempts at making anything halfway decent-looking, an idea came to mind! I scavenged an old 903 (alternator) voltage regulator cover like this one from my parts stash:

903vrcover.jpg

I then cut a 3/4" hole in the center of each small end of the cover. After trimming off the 2 upper screw mounting tubes from the roll-over valve, it fits inside the voltage regulator cover, with the round red button sticking out of one of the holes I just cut, & the wiring sticking out of the other hole. The button is exactly 3/4" diameter, & the wiring plug is slightly smaller in width, so the holes are a perfect fit. I sandblasted the cover, filled-in the stamped wiring numbers with Bondo, then sanded it smooth & repainted it (black). One of the covers' original base mounting screws was moved up to the right side in order to fasten the internal (fabricated) bracket in place, & a regular 850 rubber wiring grommet was used where the wires exit the cover.

fordrov02.jpg fordrov03.jpg fordrov05.jpg fordrov06.jpg
fordrov09.jpg fordrov10.jpg fordrov07.jpg fordrov08.jpg

When mounted in the car, the cover sits sideways (vertically) just like normal for a 903 voltage regulator. The red reset button is now on "top", with the wiring exiting the bottom, & the FIAT script reading sideways (some say "Magneti Marelli", some say "FIAT" like the one shown - I chose a "FIAT" one). I'm thinking of using a paint pen to highlight the "FIAT" script on the cover, so it'll look like the whole thing is something that's supposed to be there (ie: factory). Can't decide what color to use for the script - Silver? White? Yellow? Red?

I plan on mounting the assembly on the left inner fender wall of the engine bay, a few inches above the side frame rail & 1"-2" forward of the yellow Cavis fuel filler tray drain hose. This will put it in an easy-to-reach location, yet make it inconspicuous enough to look like it "belongs" there. I'll also need to add a fuse, a relay & some additional wiring, which I'll try to post an update of later. ;)
 
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Nice proper install of an electric pump. I use a Mustang safety switch on my race car for the very reasons you state. Even new from Ford they are cheap.
 
I was going to install relays with my electric fuel pump. I like the idea of the safety switch. I have a Ford Freestar in my backyard. Instead of sending it to the scrapyard, I kept it as a storage shed! Will I find that safety switch in it? Will it look like the first DrJeff pic?
 
I have a Ford Freestar in my backyard. Instead of sending it to the scrapyard, I kept it as a storage shed! Will I find that safety switch in it?

It should either have a switch that looks like mine, or one that looks like this:

5l2z9341a-fuel-pump-inertia-safety-cutoff-switch-cut-off-oem-ford_21331809.jpeg

On a Freestar, the fuel pump inertia switch may be inside the tire jack stowage area, to the right of the jack:

ford-fuel-cutoff-inertia-switch-loc.jpg

If it's not there, it's likely located where most other-model Fords have it; behind the lower kick-panel in the passenger-side front footwell, below the dash & just ahead of the lower A-post (door opening). Pull off the plastic panel, & the switch will be right there in the center.

Will it look like the first DrJeff pic?

FYI - I'm not "Dr. Jeff".
 
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Thanks for the comments. :)

I'm off to the shop now to scour through my box of old Fiat relays to find one for this project. According to a related-subject Facebook comment by Xweb member redracer, I'll need a Sipea 6230 relay (5-terminal type, with terminals #30, #85, #86, #87 & #87A). I see I'll also need an inline fuse, preferably one like the 850 uses for the 903 voltage regulator (to keep things looking "correct"). Hopefully I'll have these in my stash!
 
Great mod. Nice thinking around the voltage regulator and the other OE type parts (fuse holder etc)

All the best.
 
I'm converting the fuel delivery system from a mechanical pump to an electric pump...

I put in a little more time on the 850, & managed to finish this set-up by mounting the inertia switch, the relay, the inline fuse & all wiring needed. It took a few tries (on paper) of figuring out the positioning of the switch, relay & fuse relative to each other, while also developing the most efficient wiring configuration among them. Finally got something I was happy with & set in with the work!

For ease of any future identification &/or service work, the wiring was left bare until it reached the engine bay ceiling. The red & pink wires were then wrapped together in black electrical tape the full length of run around the engine bay ceiling/firewall corner, until each wire met its respective destination over on (what will be) the right side of the engine. This extended wiring was tucked behind the OE wiring harness, making it virtually unnoticeable.

This is what the left engine bay wall looks like now; from left to right, I have the canister-style electric fuel pump, the fabricated inertia switch unit, the relay & the inline fuse:

850electricfuelpumpconversion.jpg
 
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Looks like proper OEM, plus...

Nice job.

Using the OE relay is a very nice touch and the cover over the modern switch is brilliant.
 
Thinking things over, I may consider going back to my "Option #2" for the placement of the relay & the fuse & the routing of the wiring there. Decisions, decisions!

Option #1 is how I currently have things, Option #2 is how I had it earlier & may switch back to:

850efpcWiring2.JPG
 
Jeff, be advised that on two of my Alfas (a past GTV6 with Motronic injection, and my current Alfetta originally with SPICA injection but now carbs), one of the most frequent causes of inadvertent/undesired vehicle shutoff has been semi-random opening of the inertia ("rollover") switch - in both cases made by Lucas, Prince of Darkness, who somehow snuck his Brit behind into my Italian cars. On both vehicles I have bypassed that switch, at the risk of spraying fuel during an actual rollover, heaven help me.
 
On my 850 coupe which is running full EFI the electric fuel pump is controlled by the Microsquirt ECU. The pump is switched by a simple horn relay [$5 or less] this is powered when the engine rotates and as soon as the engine stops so does the pump. In your case perhaps a switch could be powered from a signal to the tacho or something else that only powers up with engine rotation.
 
On my 850 coupe which is running full EFI the electric fuel pump is controlled by the Microsquirt ECU. The pump is switched by a simple horn relay [$5 or less] this is powered when the engine rotates and as soon as the engine stops so does the pump. In your case perhaps a switch could be powered from a signal to the tacho or something else that only powers up with engine rotation.
Graham -

What is your power source to your horn relay (eg, power 'when the engine rotates')

Many thank in advance.
 
There's also a specific relay designed for this purpose. It is controlled by the ignition (coil signal to the tach) and in turn controls the fuel pump. I believe the part number is 3.300.230
 
There's also a specific relay designed for this purpose. It is controlled by the ignition (coil signal to the tach) and in turn controls the fuel pump. I believe the part number is 3.300.230
Is that a Bosch number? Seems to be several suppliers of relays with that part number. Which vendor did you use?
Thanks
 
Is that a Bosch number? Seems to be several suppliers of relays with that part number. Which vendor did you use?
Thanks
There are a few versions of this relay. And not all of them would be appropriate for every application. For example, one is designed for fuel injection systems with high pressure pumps. It has a rev-limiter feature in the relay to cut the fuel supply if the engine over revs. Naturally that wouldn't work on a carb engine. I know there's another one that would be best for a carb application but off hand I'm not certain of the part number. The "3.300.230" is a VDO number I think, but we need to verify if that is the right item. There was a good writeup on this that included the function of the pins on the relay and how it works. I'll see if I have that and post back.
 
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