850 oil sump end seal

Arachnd

Daily Driver
All ready to put the sump back on, and came upon this issue. The end seals that came with the pan gasket set are waaay too thick. The one that I took out shows maybe 1/16" protruding above the edge of the metal. I can hardly believe this new piece will compress that much - will it? Does anybody have a way of shaving these things down in such a way that you have an accurate half-circle mating surface when you're done?

Thanks...

Kelly
 

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All ready to put the sump back on, and came upon this issue. The end seals that came with the pan gasket set are waaay too thick. The one that I took out shows maybe 1/16" protruding above the edge of the metal. I can hardly believe this new piece will compress that much - will it? Does anybody have a way of shaving these things down in such a way that you have an accurate half-circle mating surface when you're done?

Thanks...

Kelly

Here's my early 2000's web page on the subject.

 
A quick question that I am still unsure about. Do the side gaskets and end gaskets need to overlap or meet precisely?

The end gasket (thick cork that is in the pan) rests on top of the side thin gasket. In the pic below, the thick cork gasket would be on top of the gasket, the silicone ensuring any gap left from the 4 surfaces that meet there would be plugged.

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Meet precisely. When you look at the images in Lalo’s guide, you can see where he cut the arced cork gasket precisely to match the surface of the flat gasket on the top of the pan.
 
Am I correct in thinking that the timing chain and gears cover can be removed and reinstalled with the engine still attached to the rear motor mount?
 
Am I correct in thinking that the timing chain and gears cover can be removed and reinstalled with the engine still attached to the rear motor mount?
Yes it is possible. It is also extremely easy to remove the rear body panel which makes working on the back of the engine extremely easy.

Put a jack under the oil pan and lift it slightly, undo the rear mount bolt and then remove the bolts holding the bumpers and then the nuts holding the back panel of the body.

It will then be all laid out before you.
 
Yes it is possible. It is also extremely easy to remove the rear body panel which makes working on the back of the engine extremely easy.

Put a jack under the oil pan and lift it slightly, undo the rear mount bolt and then remove the bolts holding the bumpers and then the nuts holding the back panel of the body.

It will then be all laid out before you.
Thank you. I may be able to use a lift which would make it easier, I think.
 
Thanks again to SuperTopo for that writeup.

I modified the approach a little. The end seal situation reminded me of the service manual for my beloved '48 Plymouth, whose pictures I ended up pretty much memorizing back in the early '70s. They carefully said to not cut off those overlapping ends of the side pieces, but to let them lap right over the 1/8" protruding ends of the end seals. I did that here, and realized that the ends of the side pieces are made so that they extend all the way in to the main bearing housing. When everything is tightened down, the end seal ends compress, and there's a solid cork gasket surface all the way around the corner - no joints, so no sealer needed. I assembled it this way, with all pieces completely dry, and took it out for a test run. All 4 corners are dry as a bone.

The engine was in the car rather than upside down on the bench, so it was going to be a challenge keeping the side pieces in place while wrestling the pan up & compressing the end seals. I stripped the paper off of a couple bread bag ties, and used the very thin wire to loop through 4 of the gasket/pan holes to keep the gaskets from jumping around. The tails are visible hanging down in the photo. They only needed one easy twist to stay in place, and the wire is so soft I could just grab one end and yank it off, once enough of the other bolts were in place.
 

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Thank you. I may be able to use a lift which would make it easier, I think.
A lift will make replacing the oil pan gasket easier, I doubt it will make the timing chain any easier, the opening of the top of the engine bay is bigger than the opening below.

Trust me, removing the rear panel is the way to go with the engine supported on a jack or wood cribbing.
 
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