Allison Automotive Ignition System

bbrown

Bob Brown
Moderator
(Distributor-less Ignition System)
A complete PDF download of this article can be obtained HERE:

distributorlesskit.jpg


This is a project that I've 'shelved' for about 3 months and have finally taken the time to complete.

Disclaimer:
My intent is not to cause controversy or the like, but to share MY experience with the installation of this
product. Obviously, much of this write-up will be critiqued by Mark (Allison Automotive) -though he may take
exception to some of what is written. This write-up is intended to help those who want to install one of these
units and to clarify steps in doing so. Just so there is no misunderstanding, let me say up-front that my
overall experience has been a positive one and I have absolutely no regrets. Mark has been helpful at every
communication I've had with him. I'm hopeful he takes this document constructively.

I've broken this up into 5 categories: The Good, the 'Not so Good', the Bad, some Recommended improvements and
some Options.

As of this writing, the installation and the discoveries thereof are complete and function as advertised.
Getting the desired results could have been a LOT quicker on my part, but as with all things on MY X1/9, they
must comply with a basic rule. #1 rule is NO PERMANENT MODIFICATION to the original structure of the car.
This includes cutting wires, drilling holes, bending metal, whatever. In other words, whatever I install has to
fit as if it were made for the car.

Lets review the Good:

The Computronix DIS4 Ignition provides gap-free spark directly to the spark plug.

Adds an overall measure of safety to the car by eliminating the open-air spark ignition source.
The gas lines in an X1/9 are located near the ignition source and a resulting pump or line failure has
historically caused catastrophic events. (fire!) This unit eliminates that danger.

Eliminates the need for Cap and rotor replacements. (because there aren't any!)

Cleans up the ignition component of the car by replacing a battery of original parts with just 2 basic components.

Significantly increases spark output and improves fuel burn.

Includes better than original, quality made and numbered Spark Plug wires.

Includes (what appears as a) Billet Aluminum Distributor replacement with all integrated electronics contained in
a removable (replaceable) top section.

Includes a Coil pack with 2 individual coils mounted on a heavy steel mount.

Magnetically coupled internal electronics eliminates wear or added friction.

Relatively easy to install. (* pending expertise)


The 'Not so Good':

This unit is not 'plug and play', but it could be. Installation happens in 20 minutes ONLY if you're not
considering the removal of old components and if specific modifications were made ahead of time. Plan on at
least an hour. Would be less with recommended improvements described below.

The Coil block mount doesn't clear all the original mounting studs and cannot be installed (according to the
photo) unless you cut or remove at least 1 existing stud. A re-designed coil mounting block (see photo) would
make the coil mounting a 'plug and play' experience and save a lot of time.

The new Ignition's power lead (RED) has the wrong connector. A Male BULLET connector to plug into the X1/9's pink
wire would solve this. Otherwise, installation requires cutting/crimping wires.

Missing spark plug wire loom spacers. (As shown in SOME ads)

Missing connector (ring tongue) on the ground wire. (nothing provided)

Missing method to mount the Tachometer block. (otherwise, hangs)

The EFI unit signal wire is not addressed in the installation instruction sheet.

The Tachometer block is Scotch-locked onto the coil leads. This is a big no-no with regard to any sort of wire
integrity. Scotch-Locks are an easy method to tap into a wire, but over time they do more damage than good.
Those who have a trailer with Scotch-Locked tail light connections find themselves re-doing them every so often.
On the inside of a car where there's a measure of protection, you could get away with it, but not within a
hostile place like the engine compartment. Paying over $500 for an improved ignition should include permanent,
solid waterproof connections.

The installation instructions need to be improved. Wires are not specifically addressed. (only generally)
It should be noted in the instruction to attach the PINK wire (from the X1/9) to the RED wire coming from the new
ignition harness. It should be noted to attach the BROWN/WHT wire AND the BLACK covered wire from the X1/9 EFI
Harness to the VIOLET wire that exits the new ignition harness's Tachometer block.
That said, the VIOLET wire coming from the Tachometer Block should have TWO connectors attached: 1 FEMALE BULLET
Connector to attach to the X1/9's Brown/Wht wire, (which is also paired up with the pink ignition wire) and 1
FEMALE SPADE Connector to attach to the wire going to the BLACK covered EFI harness wire. (the pulse signal to
the injectors)

Running the car at low RPM produces erratic behavior with the Tachometer. Higher RPM seems to show more
stability. More work is needed to determine the cause. (Suspect the Tach signal block assembly.)


The Bad:

I unknowingly received the 'blue glove' prototype unit. (minor scratches, Jacobs chuck indents to the shaft, old
oil residue on unit) I was both surprised and discouraged, though the unit worked perfectly. Seals and gasket
were new. I have no intention of changing out or replacing this unit, but I thought I'd mention it so that it
doesn't go unnoticed. Not a good business practice, especially within a tight group like ours, and I'm sorry I
have to mention it. Pictures HERE (top photo is mine) and HERE

Let's take a look in pictures: (we all love pictures!)

Here is a photo of the coil mounting area. The original coil and suppression filter have been removed.
Notice the studs we have to avoid when mounting the new coil pack.

igncoilmountareasm.jpg


Here is a photo extracted from Allison Automotive's video demo.
You'll note that the coil is mounted at an angle. (which is fine) Also, the plug that connects to it is
facing the firewall, making access to it a bit more difficult. Though I can see the Scotch locks at the top
of the connector, the Tachometer block is not in view.

coilmount.jpg


Here's another photo from what appears to be the same install.
This coil pack looks like it was placed inside a cut area where the old ignition module used to reside.

ignitionsm.jpg


We can clean this up a bit if the mount were designed specifically for the X1/9. Using a
piece of phenolic material that was available to me, (like circuit board material) I cut
a pattern out of the material with relief holes that would allow the coil to be mounted
strait. Also, I was able to mount it with the connector facing outward. The existing mounts
in the X1/9 were used to hold this piece securely.

coilmountinstalled1sm.jpg


I left my original ignition box in the car just in case I have to go backwards someday.
(hopefully not!) The 3 protruding studs on the new mount hold the coil in place as shown:

coilinstalledsm.jpg


The next thing on the list was to install the harness that attaches the coil to the new
distributor assembly. This is where I spent some time.
I didn't want to cut into my harness, and there really was no reason to as long as I
used the correct connectors. So I removed the scotch locks, added a secure soldered
connection with heat shrink applied, then changed out / added the connections that would
allow this to be a totally plug-in unit. Here is what the new harness looks like:

modifieddizzyharnesssm.jpg
Dizzy_Harness.jpg


After completing the harness, I changed out the blue (supplied) Spark Plug wires for red ones of
equal quality. I hated to ruin the set of blue wires, but I wanted the boots and number tags
for the red set. The plug wires were installed with the lengths matching the distance on each.
I added wire looms to dress up the install.

From there it was a matter of installing the Distributor and setting the timing as described
in the instruction manual. No doubt, the process was very simple. Starting the car took about
30 seconds (tweaking the dizzy) but it fired right up.

Here are some photos of the install. I'm posting 4 taken from different angles so you get the idea.

Top view, where you can clearly see the Compu-Tronic Dizzy unit and the red spark plug wires

ignition1sm.jpg


This is a side view showing the coil pack mounted in place.

ignition2sm.jpg


Another view of the coil pack. Access to the connector on the Coil pack is easily made and the Tachometer
block is shown mounted securely.

ignition3sm.jpg


Here's a picture of what everyone sees when they open the cover.
My opinion, but it actually looks like it belongs there.

ignition4sm.jpg


So here are my recommendations for improvement:

Re-write the instruction manual so that the 'connection' instructions show the illustrations on or near the same
page. Include the actual wire colors from the X1/9.

Include Wire Loom Spacers with the kit.

Include a ring-tongue connector on the Tachometer Block ground lead. (This makes for easy connection to the
chassis)

Replace the Male SPADE connector on the red wire (powers the new distributor unit) with a Male BULLET connector.
(This makes a direct plug-in connection to the PINK wire on the X1/9)

Include double-sided foam tape on the back of the Tachometer block to secure it.

Solder and heat-shrink the Black/White Tachometer signal block connections. (eliminate the Scotch-Locks)

Provide a "Y" Connection that includes a FEMALE SPADE Connector AND a FEMALE BULLET Connector on the VIOLET wire
that comes from the Tachometer signal block. (This makes direct plug in connections to the X1/9) A 2 inch by 0.5
inch Dia. heat shrink to protect the Spade connection would be a plus. (or recommend taping the connection to
protect it)

Re-design the coil block mount to fit the X1/9. I'm suggesting you use 1/4 inch aluminum instead of the heavy
stamped steel plate that's provided. (I used a phenolic material because it was easy and available to me, but
it's a much more expensive material) Otherwise, folks have to grind off 1 or more studs as part of the
installation.

Add a reference to the installation manual to block the vacuum advance line that used to go to the old Dizzy.


Options:

Offer different color Spark Plug wires. I changed mine to RED because I thought the blue simply didn't match the
cars colors. But folks can decide that for themselves.


Conclusion:

Overall, I'm very happy with this Ignition Module replacement. The above comments are provided to help improve
the product and installation experience. I TRULY APPRECIATE the efforts made in providing this solution
to the X1/9 community and I hope it continues.

Also, I realize any improvements would likely drive the cost of this unit up, however the overall quality AND
installation experience would (in my opinion) be worth it.

As always, your comments are welcome.
 
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That kind of advice from a product development consultant or consulting electrical/mechanical engineering firm might cost $10-$15,000 out in the real world.
 
well...

This type of electronic fix is well beyond my normal understanding of electronics, but I think I could actually follow the logic.

I've purchased from Allison, mostly trim pieces, and been happy with their stuff so far...but the points made in this post seem fair, valid and very constructive. I regard the post as providing extremely positive and constructive criticism. Based upon what Bob said I'd be much more inclined to purchase such a system from Allison if it really was "plug and play" and had the improvements he suggests.

In full disclosure mode, I've also done some financial some deals with Bob, dashlights and wiring harness, and found his expertise in X electronics to just be unsurpassed. If I were Allison I'd take his recommendations very seriously. I know I do. I hope they make them in their kits going forward because they'll likely get another customer in Florida...me.
 
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Thanks for the critique and suggestions. Several of them have already been addressed in subsequent units.
First though, I want to say that we did not send you a test unit. All of the early units were fitted to a block and drive gear to ensure fit. We supplied the mfg with a block and oil pump drive to make sure that the splines and length were proper. In addition, every unit is bench tested before shipping and to ensure the tach drive operates the Veglia tachs.
The harnesses now do not use scotch locks. I wasn't happy with those either and the mfg had to source connectors that would fit the plug and accomodate more than 1 wire. They've done that.

The spark plug wire seperators aren't shown in the ad and they were a late addition in the video. They make a nice touch and I'm looking for a reliable, cost-effective source for them and will include them in the kits when I find them.

The coil bracket has been changed slightly, but it looks like your pics show the ignition module still in place. We removed the unit from the red X in the video and that allowed the bracket to bolt on without any mods. We placed the plug to the rear to make it less visible.

I agree a terminal for the ground wire should be in the kit. The connectors for the coil on the X are different than most of the other models. I need to address that with the mfg.

Tach issues-the mfg had some difficulty building an adapter to run the Veglia tach. Every ign mfg has had major difficulty with this. Most gauge repair shops charge $250-275 to make a Veglia tach work with an aftermarket ignition. The only other tach we've had any issues with is the one in my own car. When I started redoing ground connections from the instrument cluster, most of the erratic behavior went away. While testing Veglia tachs during development of the system, we found EVERY single tach was off at least 700rpm at 5000rpm. I think Fiat had Veglia calibrate them that way to prevent over-revving.

Again, thanks for the well-thought out suggestions
 
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