kmead
Old enough to know better
Late X1/9s also have a spring on the actuation arm to pull the bearing into contact all the time.
Alternative gearbox for X1/9 from VW, Audi (WAG group)
- Thread starter Janis
- Start date
Janis
True Classic
One other thing, from paddles of pressure plate to clutch disc there is 14mm of space how paddles can be pressed in till they hit clutch disc, could 9mm of travel of throw out bearing be enough?
Yesterday before sleep tried to figure out a simple mechanism to make seqeuntial shifter mechamism for non seqeuntial gearbox, figured out at the time I was already asleep. It worked excellent and shifting was so smooth with it
Yesterday before sleep tried to figure out a simple mechanism to make seqeuntial shifter mechamism for non seqeuntial gearbox, figured out at the time I was already asleep. It worked excellent and shifting was so smooth with it
Jonohhh
True Classic
A lot of modern ones function this way as it's how the hydraulic clutch circuit self adjusts (the cylinder needs to be constrained to the position of the pressure plate at all times, in order to adjust as the clutch disc wears and the resting position of the fingers changes).
Of course, you find people refuse to accept this and form some elaborate theory about how the manufacturer wants it to fail early. Sometimes they make an effort to make it how they think it should be, and then wonder why their clutch feels like crap 30,000mi later.
It's rather entertaining, really. 
There's also self adjusting pressure plates (with another set of advantages), but those are a whole different ordeal.
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Janis
True Classic
Bottom ball end bolt has to be lengthened by 12mm and 12mm spacer is needed.
I shaved ~1mm from the fork - side that is faced to engine
Hole for timing made
There is ~23mm of amount that slave cylinder shaft can move, it looks that is enough, but if it is not then shaft must be cut in half and threaded to be adjustable, but not yet and hope that never will bee needed
Photo shows more, but it is 23mm now after adjustments I made after this photo was taken.
And here is “not the best video “ that shows that everything works. This video was taken before I added teo extra shims on bottom ball bolt to get “spacer” that is total 12mm in length, so after this video distance between pressure plate and fork on top and bottom is more equal.
Video won’t show You anything more than I have already written, so choose vicely how to waste 3 minutes of Your time
Cable shifter posts will follow next.
I shaved ~1mm from the fork - side that is faced to engine
Hole for timing made
There is ~23mm of amount that slave cylinder shaft can move, it looks that is enough, but if it is not then shaft must be cut in half and threaded to be adjustable, but not yet and hope that never will bee needed
Photo shows more, but it is 23mm now after adjustments I made after this photo was taken.
And here is “not the best video “ that shows that everything works. This video was taken before I added teo extra shims on bottom ball bolt to get “spacer” that is total 12mm in length, so after this video distance between pressure plate and fork on top and bottom is more equal.
Video won’t show You anything more than I have already written, so choose vicely how to waste 3 minutes of Your time
Cable shifter posts will follow next.
Janis
True Classic
So now about shifter, coincidence plays out well.
This particular shifter is from Mazda 6 2.0 5speed diesel
But that doesn’t matter - here is part number :
GJ6FB
Now it is in X1/9
Forward Backward motion with Mazda shifter and 02J box is correct
But as You see on Mazda shifter box there is space for third cable.
Let’s switch mind that Mazda box is now in X1/9.
There are two options:
1. Wait till I find part number of Right side lever.
2. Modify (it is not hard) existing left lever to be used on the right side.
Mazda box is not small, but it can be made narrower- to be 105mm wide or less for unknown reasons yet.
I think this is it.
This particular shifter is from Mazda 6 2.0 5speed diesel
But that doesn’t matter - here is part number :
GJ6FB
Now it is in X1/9
Forward Backward motion with Mazda shifter and 02J box is correct
But as You see on Mazda shifter box there is space for third cable.
Let’s switch mind that Mazda box is now in X1/9.
There are two options:
1. Wait till I find part number of Right side lever.
2. Modify (it is not hard) existing left lever to be used on the right side.
Mazda box is not small, but it can be made narrower- to be 105mm wide or less for unknown reasons yet.
I think this is it.
Attachments
Bjorn Nilson
True Classic
If you can hide the Mazda 626 shifter under the stock console and make it work with the VAG transmission it would be great. If you manage there's a good chance this shifter would work with the C510 box as well.
Keep up the good work Janis.
Keep up the good work Janis.
Janis
True Classic
*Not Mazda 626 but just Mazda 6 ~2002 year of production
**not sure about Xedos 6 - what shifter box it has
Janis
True Classic
GJ6AC Mazda shifter box is what You need in combination with 02J box.
Bjorn, I don’t know actually in which directions cables moves on C510 box - You have to check to be sure.
Jeff, GJ6AC would work with cables that doesn’t loop around but as it was meant to be in midengined car, otherwise if You would want to loop the cables, could just use 02J shifter box.
Cables in picture are from Mazda 6, will they work, don’t know yet.
Bjorn, I don’t know actually in which directions cables moves on C510 box - You have to check to be sure.
Jeff, GJ6AC would work with cables that doesn’t loop around but as it was meant to be in midengined car, otherwise if You would want to loop the cables, could just use 02J shifter box.
Cables in picture are from Mazda 6, will they work, don’t know yet.
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autox19
True Classic
I ended up using a porche spyder shifter. Was about 100 bucks on ebay. Cables going the right direction and custom cables (about 75 each)
Odie
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Janis
True Classic
That is for some specific Honda gearbox if not mistaken, it doesn’t mean it will work with 02J (altough it could, have no idea).
Porsche parts are not cheap. For that Mazda shifter I wouldn’t pay more than 10€, nobody needs them
, will check later, are they available new.But if somebody wants to get Mazda shifter through me, they are rare and expensive
autox19
True Classic
I just needed a cable shifter. It is going to a rod based b series that I adapted. I was shocked on the cost as honda cable shifters were over 200 used and I would have had to adapt them for sending the cables to the back. Mr2 shifters were also in that 200 range. This one already sent it to the rear and was the cheapest. At that time there were 3-4 on evil bay for about the same cost. Not anything against your choice as what ever works works.That is for some specific Honda gearbox if not mistaken, it doesn’t mean it will work with 02J (altough it could, have no idea).
Porsche parts are not cheap. For that Mazda shifter I wouldn’t pay more than 10€, nobody needs them
But if somebody wants to get Mazda shifter through me, they are rare and expensive
Odie
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Sorry, I was confused about the Mazda parts (I'm not familiar with Mazdas overall). But now I understand.
I agree, a shifter designed for a mid or rear engine car would be a definite benefit. Opposed to using the FWD VW unit and looping the cables around.
Prices for parts - new or used - will vary widely and can make a definite impact on my choice when doing something like this.
Bjorn Nilson
True Classic
I have a contact in the UK that have MR2 shifters if interested. I've heard they should work well but I have no experience. They are impossible to get at the junkyards here.