Alternative location for Bosch electronic control module

milan1951

True Classic
Recently acquired a Bosch original electronic ignition from Dr Jeff to replace my old points system.
Taking Dr Jeff's advice of somewhere else to locate the solid state control unit other than in the flood prone right side hole beside coil and under black cover.
Any one else relocated their control unit out of a sometimes pool of undrained rain water ?
One suggestion was in the spare wheel area. Hole and gromett for wires through fire-wall.
 
I put my CD ignition module on the bracket where the carb fan was mounted behind the fuel tank. It also has a big air intake next to it which should enhance the cooling of the module.
 
Great idea Don, that unit gets hot and can benefit from air cooling rush.
I take it you no longer have a carb fan on yours. Probably fuel injected.
I have a fan but no air hose to carb and air cleaner.
 
Can the wires that came from original set up be cut and lengthened to relocate to new position ? Say near carb-fan ?
 
Another alternative is to effectively do the GM module update by getting a 124 Spider coil, heat sink and module. Then mount it right where the current coil is located. Just a thought.
 
Can the wires that came from original set up be cut and lengthened to relocate to new position ? Say near carb-fan ?

If you are going to cut the harness, you will be better off making a new on using the existing connectors and buying new terminals. Cutting & splicing the old wiring will not be a safe bet, IMO. You could move the coil & mount the ECU on the bay side of the waffle section.
 
You could also do the GM mod using the Bosch box.

I think you could lengthen the wires to the Bosch box with the possible exception of the one that goes to the distributor. That one has a low level signal on it so making it too long could create problems. I'm guessing it is already long enough to get from the carb fan to the distributor.
 
Thanks Don, was thinking along the lines that the original wiring from module to distributor was of a desired length for a specific purpose. Now that idea is reinforced.
 
Haven't yet taken the black cover off the Bosch CD ignition module where the wires go in. Are the wires connected with terminals of some kind ?
 
I doubt the wires are long enough to get from the right to the left side of the bay. It is really meant to be on the right side of the bay.

If rewiring then combining that with the GM module mod would be worthwhile, it does not have to be done in the Bosch box, the 124 Spider uses the same chip in its assembly and would put the coil and the chip in one assembly. It could go exactly where the existing coil lives and not require moving things around. You could also get rid of the ballast resister and use a better coil.
 
I went to the 124 spider coil pack (coil and module all on one nicely finned holder) and mounted on the engine side of the louvered panel between the engine bay and the flood prone well where the original module was mounted. The wire for the spider module has a different configuration. I just cut off the ends and used crimped male connectors.
 
On the later X's that came with the electronic ignition there are a couple of holes (with rubber grommets) to accommodate the wire routing. However the layout of it sort of looks like an afterthought...or should I say a lack of thought. There is one hole in the firewall between the spare tire well and the engine bay located about half way up, next to the removable distributor access panel. Then there are more holes in the side panel, into that "water well" where the module mounts. The wire harnesses make a seemingly random path back and forth through all those holes to go between the various components. The connections for some of the individual wires are also a bit random looking.

My point is there really isn't a "proper" way to mount all of it; at least the original factory approach wasn't "proper" in my opinion. I'd look at the harnesses, the components, and the locations of fixed things (i.e. the distributor), and just decide where I wanted to put all of it. About the only consideration to think about might be that the control module doesn't get too hot; the aluminum box is intended to be a heatsink, so there should be some airflow (not waterflow) around it.
 
Dr Jeff, will try for a suitable mounting somewhere dry and tidy. Yes in the spare wheel space there are a lot of grommets and holes to poke wires through to distributor and coil. Was concerned in not upsetting the original wire lengths too much. Does the wire running from the ignition module to the distributor detach from the distributor perhaps. Does removing the screw on the distributor connection remove the connection to feed it through firewall grommet.
 
A simpler solution might be to make sure the drain tube in the original location is clear. Then make sure it doesn't get clogged up again by neglecting the car and allowing leaves, pine needles, etc to collect. Oh, and if you don't drive it in the rain, it won't be a problem.
Even if the car is a daily driver that lives outside in the rain it's not common that the drain is blocked - if you pay attention.
 
The cable to the distributor does unplug at the distributor housing (square black plastic). The screw (on the distributor) does not need to be removed and will not allow any greater access, the other side of that connector is attached to things inside the distributor.

Recently there was a different discussion about locating other electrical components (not the ignition module). It was noted if something that generates a lot of heat is mounted in the spare-tire well then there isn't sufficient air circulation in there to keep it properly cooled. So that might not be the best location afterall? Unless a vent of some sort existed to that area. Although the factory ECU for injected X's is located there so I would imagine the item would have to give off a lot of heat for this to be an issue. I'm not sure, but something to consider.
 
A simpler solution might be to make sure the drain tube in the original location is clear. Then make sure it doesn't get clogged up again by neglecting the car and allowing leaves, pine needles, etc to collect. Oh, and if you don't drive it in the rain, it won't be a problem.
Even if the car is a daily driver that lives outside in the rain it's not common that the drain is blocked - if you pay attention.
Agreed keeping it clear is desirable and optimal. I have added drain cloth screens above them as I live in a place where all manner of plant detritus is falling on my car year round and as my car lives outside keeping it clear is a hassle to put it mildly. Particularly on the right side due to the awkward Bosch box in there.

I need to replace the drain cloth (the stuff you put under mulch) as they are pretty soiled and not as easy flowing in terms of water though it may be a good thing. I think I may make a magnetic border for them next time to reduce the size and make them stay in place easier.

In my case one well placed fragment of an acorn courtesy of the numerous squirrels will clog it and I have had to remove the Bosch box to get them out before which is not fun.
 
Agreed keeping it clear is desirable and optimal. I have added drain cloth screens above them as I live in a place where all manner of plant detritus is falling on my car year round and as my car lives outside keeping it clear is a hassle to put it mildly. Particularly on the right side due to the awkward Bosch box in there.

I need to replace the drain cloth (the stuff you put under mulch) as they are pretty soiled and not as easy flowing in terms of water though it may be a good thing. I think I may make a magnetic border for them next time to reduce the size and make them stay in place easier.

In my case one well placed fragment of an acorn courtesy of the numerous squirrels will clog it and I have had to remove the Bosch box to get them out before which is not fun.
For me it's mostly a matter of being too lazy to do such tasks like this, or lube hinges/cables/locks, and all the other little jobs that should be done on a regular basis. So I try to make my cars as maintenance free as possible. That means modifying things away from stock in many cases. Funny, I'd rather spend time and effort to modify the car than maintain it. 🐵 {We now have a million emojis and I don't see one for "crazy"}
 
The cable to the distributor does unplug at the distributor housing (square black plastic). The screw (on the distributor) does not need to be removed and will not allow any greater access, the other side of that connector is attached to things inside the distributor.

Recently there was a different discussion about locating other electrical components (not the ignition module). It was noted if something that generates a lot of heat is mounted in the spare-tire well then there isn't sufficient air circulation in there to keep it properly cooled. So that might not be the best location afterall? Unless a vent of some sort existed to that area. Although the factory ECU for injected X's is located there so I would imagine the item would have to give off a lot of heat for this to be an issue. I'm not sure, but something to consider.
Thanks Jeff always informative. So it's a kind of plug that black rubber at the side of the Bosch distributor. Was afraid to tug and damage much as I did with the wire from the oil pressure gauge sender below oil filter that I mistakenly tugged. Wasnt a connection at all. Yikes !" If i can't solder it back a new one from MWB. On X1/9's one learns by experiences.
 
Thanks Jeff always informative. So it's a kind of plug that black rubber at the side of the Bosch distributor. Was afraid to tug and damage much as I did with the wire from the oil pressure gauge sender below oil filter that I mistakenly tugged. Wasnt a connection at all. Yikes !" If i can't solder it back a new one from MWB. On X1/9's one learns by experiences.
 
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