Another 1500 FI performance street build.

I have a different head “fit” question. The new head I have appears to be made for carburetors. The intake inlets are round
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Where on the FI head there is a relief in the inlet for what I assume is injector/injector spray clearance.
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Is it important to grind out a similar relief in the new head? It should be fairly easy to make a template that I can transfer the outline into the new head and duplicate that profile. Any potential pitfalls with doing this?
You are correct in your assumption, those reliefs are for the injector spray. While it is not absolutely necessary to add them to the "round" port head, it would be best to. And as you say, it is easy to do in the way you described. I've done it and the aluminum is soft and easy to shape. In fact I'd suggest not using a carbide burr, as it is a bit aggressive for this. I used a sanding drum or scroll to add the shape, it will go quickly.
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Small suggestion, match to your inlet manifold rather than another head. Might help gas flow a bit
Completely agree. In fact by the time I was done port matching the head and intake manifold the size of those scallops became smaller. That's because I found the Fiat head and manifold ports to be pretty far off one another, making the openings larger by the time they were aligned. That larger opening meant it came closer into the scalloped recess already. Therefore I suggest doing the port matching first, then add the scallops.
This pic was taken for another purpose so it is a bit off angle. But hopefully you can see how the scallops are not as pronounced as on a stock FI head:
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I appreciate everyone’s advice and the discussion. At this point the plan is to build the Chinese Tipo head to relatively stock specs. I’ll use the stock valve sizes. I’d like to reuse as much as I can so I’ll let the head shop assess the springs to see if they are still good enough to use. I’m keeping the stock FI at this point. I’ve ordered a cast 4-2 exhaust manifold and I’ll have to put together a custom exhaust downstream of the manifold. My plan is to lighten the flywheel I have. And I’m just rebuilding the block and bottom end to stock.
Right now I’m focusing on the block. The machine shop I talked to about cleaning and assessing the block said they were 6 months out, so I’m just going to do this myself. I’m currently cleaning the block. Once that’s done I’ll measure the cylinder bores and the crank journals to make sure everything is within spec. So far I’ve degreased the block pretty well. Pulled the little oil galley plugs and cleaned those channels well
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To hint I’ve filled the water jacket with evapo-rust to get the rest of the rusty scale off.
So, my next job is to disassemble the pistons and rods. What is the best way to press the pins out of the pistons? And does anyone have a good suggestion for cleaning the pistons? I’ll probably just soak them and the rods in Gunk car cleaner like I’ve been doing with the block.
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I’ve already torn down and cleaned the oil pump
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the crank is clean as well, except I haven’t yet pulled the oil galley plugs. I’ll plan on doing that. I think I’ll tap and use threaded plugs for all the oil galley plugs.
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What is the best way to press the pins out of the pistons?
The wrist pins are "fully floating," not a press fit; there are wire clips in a groove on either side. (They're not easy to remove cleanly, if you plan to reuse)
New pistons usually include new wrist pins and clips. There is a (replaceable) bushing in the small end of the con rod.
 
Very tidy work. Looking very good. You should end up with a nice engine by the end of this.

While its out is it work having the crank balanced? They found on my UT build that the crank was very far out. Its all reducing stress on the engine :)
 
Ryan, looking great...nice job. ;)

I find it difficult to clean out the water jackets without subjecting the block to caustic chemicals that damage the aux shaft bearings (which I don't want to replace). So I'm curious how the Evaporust worked in your water jackets? And how you applied it; blanking off all the openings, etc.?
Was this before cleaning?
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For the pistons, after you soak them use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the carbon off the crowns. And be sure to get the ring grooves completely cleaned as well. Another option is soda blasting but that is a bit more costly than soaking/scraping.
There is a thread discussing the removal and installation of the clips for the wrist pins. In it I described a neat little tool I made that copies one the Porsche guys use. This shows the tool I copied:
And here is the thread:
 
While its out is it work having the crank balanced? They found on my UT build that the crank was very far out.
Alex, I'm a little surprised your crank was so out of balance. I'm curious if any idea why it was? Had it been modified, machined, or otherwise worked on previously?
 
Or 50 lbs of boost? 😁

Seriously, most people report that the X1/9 crank didn't really need any balancing when it was checked by their machine shop.
 
I blocked off the water jacket with the end plates and some paper gasket cut to fit. And then I just filled the water jacket with the evapo-rust.
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I let us sit overnight and then rinsed it out this morning. I was in a rush so done have a picture but it looked pretty good. As far as the aux shaft bushing, it seems a bit dinged up so I may have to replace that anyhow. I don’t want to but we’ll see.
I removed one of the snap rings on the one piston hoping the pin would just slide out but it seems pretty tight. Maybe a light tap or press to get it going? I’ll have to play with it a bit.
Thanks for the reminder about the tool to replace that snap ring. I had tried to put it back and it seems like it will be tricky.
 
When you get a chance please post a pic of the water passages after treatment. Maybe compare it to the one you already posted (that I copied).
 
So here is a progression of how the block looked. When I first started tearing it down. There was lots of rusty looking gunk in the water jacket.
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after some scraping with long narrow screwdrivers and some pipe brushes and lots of flushing I got this
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Last step was evapo-rust and rinse.
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I think it looks pretty good. There are a few little spots of rust that I can see back in some of the passages but I think it’s just surface. I think any flakey stuff is gone.
 
Alex, I'm a little surprised your crank was so out of balance. I'm curious if any idea why it was? Had it been modified, machined, or otherwise worked on previously?
No idea of the history of the engine, I pulled it from a scrap uno turbo (after starting it to make sure it at least ran). I didn't notice it really until it got rebuilt by Guy Croft. He is the one who told me the crank was out of balance and got it, among other things, sorted for me.

Back n topic that evapo rust looks to have worked really well. I never heard of it before, will have to find out how it works.
 
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Thanks for the pics, it does look good after the Evaporust. I wonder if it would eventually do as well without the scraping if it was left in there long enough. Probably not but wouldn't that be nice. Supposedly Evaporust won't harm the softer metals so it might be ok to submerge the block in it and not damage the aux shaft bearings. Although that would require a lot of the stuff.
 
I’ve seen restoration guys with 50 gallon drums of the stuff put big items in. It’s not quite cheap enough to have that quantity on hand unless you’re using it quite a bit. I think it can be saved and reused to some extent as well. And I think it’s fairly nontoxic but don’t take my word on that.
 
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