Axle Rose...

Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

Waitin' On Parts...
...or Thorns?

Having taken the left axle out of my '86 to pull the trans, I am now going over it in preparation for reinstalling trans and buttoning up the driveline.

Q1: To clean and service the CV joints, I assume you remove the circlip from the axle, slip the joint assemby off the axle splines, clean in solvent, blow dry, remount on the axle, and pack with MD joint grease. Right?

Q2: The flexibility and range of motion of one of the CV joints seems to be significantly greater than its opposite number on the other end of the axle. What do I look for to assess whether this is good, bad, or indifferent?

Q3: Can I reuse the six allen head capscrews that hold the stub axle flanges to the CV joints, or are new ones required?

Q4: This axle has been out and sitting in the corner for some time so I have no idea which end is inner and which is outer. Can it go back in either way, or will it be evident upon reinstallation which way round is right and wrong?

BTW the boots look just fine.
 
Q1:
*Use a proper external ring pliers to remove the lock ring and try not to bend them. These are thicker than what is normally available. Note the order of parts when it all goes back together.

*Basically correct. There is a groove on the outside of the CV joint, this is the side of the CV joint to face the drive flange. If the CV joint is taken apart, the center grooved race has a slightly raised shoulder on one side of the splined hole, note it's orientation to the groove on the outside of the CV joint and make sure the joint is re-assembled this way.

*The 6 balls used in these CV joints are 3/4", grade 25, chrome steel. These are available at your local industrial bearing supplier. If the balls are scored or discolored, replace them.

*If possible, grind out the ball retainer cage until the balls fall free, this will reduce the friction, scuffing and wear on the chrome steel balls.

*Inspect the CV joint outer and inner race to excessive wear, They are usually good unless the boot has failed and dirt and etc as turned the grease into grinding compound which significantly increases the wear on the joint.

*Use Red Line CV-2 Red Moly (and DO NOT MIX with any other grease) or NEO-Oil CV500 grease, both are a synthetic. Either will help the service life of these joints.

*Replace the boots. Even if they look fine. Even more reason if you switch over to one of the synthetic grease as there might be a compatibility problem causing a lubricant failure.

**Trivia, a number of years ago, an Alaska Air plane (DC-8??) crashed due to the rudder ball screw actuator seizing stuck. The cause of this failure proved to be lubricant (grease) in-compatibility.

Q2:
*The range of movement should be near the same for all of the CV joints. All 4 joints are the same.

Q3:
*DO NOT RE-USE THE CV JOINT BOLTS.. Other might not agree, I refuse to reuse the CV joint bolts for a host of reasons. These are M8 x 45mm long, Grade 12.9 socket head screws and are not difficult to get. Torque bolts to 25-30 ft/lb and use a good quality 6mm hex bit on a socket. Torque these bolts in a opposing pattern and progessing towards the final torque value, just like cylinder head.

Q4,
*Yes then can be direction rotated, The CV joints do develop a wear pattern, bu they can be direction rotated. If the CV joints are taken apart, one can see which way the CV joint was run based on groove wear.

*BTW, these are proper curved groove CV joints. The curved groove helps distribute the wear on the CV joint. These are a bit more difficult to produce compared to the straight groove CV joints which are very common on many cars today. The straight groove CV joints don't last as long since the stress is concentrated on a specific location of the CV joint. As the CV joint wears, a pit is worn into the CV joint, this is what causes the clicking CV joint when the car goes around a turn under power.

...or Thorns?

Having taken the left axle out of my '86 to pull the trans, I am now going over it in preparation for reinstalling trans and buttoning up the driveline.

Q1: To clean and service the CV joints, I assume you remove the circlip from the axle, slip the joint assemby off the axle splines, clean in solvent, blow dry, remount on the axle, and pack with MD joint grease. Right?

Q2: The flexibility and range of motion of one of the CV joints seems to be significantly greater than its opposite number on the other end of the axle. What do I look for to assess whether this is good, bad, or indifferent?

Q3: Can I reuse the six allen head capscrews that hold the stub axle flanges to the CV joints, or are new ones required?

Q4: This axle has been out and sitting in the corner for some time so I have no idea which end is inner and which is outer. Can it go back in either way, or will it be evident upon reinstallation which way round is right and wrong?

BTW the boots look just fine.
 
Hi Bernice,

Thanks for your detailed reply.:)

After removing the CV joints in question and giving them a thorough cleaning in solvent, I decided that the stiffness in one merits its replacement. The other still seems like it has a nice range of motion to it.

Since new FIAT CV joints are not readily available, can you suggest a bolt-in substitute? I am asking this as a reaction to your comment in jjay's axle thread that the CVs used in 1500 Xs (mine is an '86) are common 86mm bolt circle CVs. Ideally a VW or BMW part number or something like "get the one that fits a '92 BMW 318is" would be peachy-keen

BTW this is just for everyday driving an unmodified X.
 
CV joints

Dan, did you check with Matt Brannon? A good used one would last just about forever.

Dave
 
Most of the usual X suppliers have them. There is also evilbay too. FIAT CV joints are not difficult to get. Not expensive either.

Wore out CV joints get loose, if the CV joint is stiff, there could be other problems. Take it apart and have a look see. Inspection of the CV joint grooves and chrome steel balls is a better way to gauge CV joint condition.

Dan, did you check with Matt Brannon? A good used one would last just about forever.

Dave
 
Pix Enclosed

Here are a couple of snapshots of the two lefties. Full album located at http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a341/DSarandrea/042809/

IMG_0691.jpg


IMG_0696.jpg


IMG_0698.jpg
 
These CV joints don't look too bad, they still have life in them. The chrome steel balls still look good, but lightly scored. It would not be a bad idea to replace them.

If interested, here is where to grind on the cage retainers to make the CV joints work better. Use a small stone on a die grinder to open up the cage slots just enough for the chrome steel ball to clear freely.


Here are a couple of snapshots of the two lefties. Full album located at http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a341/DSarandrea/042809/
 
Hi Bernice, thanx for taking a look!:)

I decided to replace these two. The pair other side (pass) seem to have led a much more leisurely life, they look a lot better.

I picked up two new ones at Bruce's. They were NOS, in the FIAT Ricambi box and preservative paper, one was even still fully sealed. You'll be interested to know that upon opening, one has the Lobro brand stamped in it and the other has the familiar Ford oval stamped in it.:confused: As you mentioned this must be a very popular size.

Gonna pass on the grinding work though, as I don't have the expertise to do that without screwing something up!:eek:

Also followed your advice and bought a box of new allen head cap screws too, grade 12.9.
 
Hello Dan,

You're welcome, it looks like the CV joint project will be done sooner than later and in ways, better than new.

Yes, these CV joints are quite popular. Many a real race car have been designed around them. Both VW & FIAT made this technology available to the car world via smart design and production methods.

This joint was designed in the 1920's by an American engineer, Alfred Rzeppa working for FORD to solve the changing joint velocity problems problems with the U-joint which goes back to Greece when transmitting rotational force.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hi Bernice, thanx for taking a look!:)

I decided to replace these two. The pair other side (pass) seem to have led a much more leisurely life, they look a lot better.

I picked up two new ones at Bruce's. They were NOS, in the FIAT Ricambi box and preservative paper, one was even still fully sealed. You'll be interested to know that upon opening, one has the Lobro brand stamped in it and the other has the familiar Ford oval stamped in it.:confused: As you mentioned this must be a very popular size.

Gonna pass on the grinding work though, as I don't have the expertise to do that without screwing something up!:eek:

Also followed your advice and bought a box of new allen head cap screws too, grade 12.9.
 
The pair other side (pass) seem to have led a much more leisurely life, they look a lot better.

In designs with unequal length driveshafts, this is generally the case... The longer driveshaft needs less angular deflection to make the same amount of vertical travel.
 
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