b16, 2 steps forward, 1.5 steps back.

Here we go. Sooooo. First the spill free funnel rocks.
So I put the kpro coolant neck on. 2 issues. One I brole a bolt getting the old one off. 2 hours later it was ready for filling. Problem 2. The aftermarket cooling neck doesn't have provisions for a coolant outlet to the intake. Honda friends are looking at where to tee it off.

After filling, it went to a little over 200, big burp then settled to the 190s. Idoes like that for 15 minutes. Now for the test drive.
Temp was awesome for first mile or so. Then I slowed down for a turn and the temp went back up to 210 3/4 mile later. Shut it down. Let it cool to 200 and started u
it back up
That later for 1/2 mike before I had to shut it down again. Let it cool to 200 and started the sequence over. This time it made it 2 miles then I had to slow for a turn again and up the temp went. Ugh
2nd issue. It was driving in limp mode even though I didn't have any codes. I did notice the speed sensor was saying 5 mph in 5th gear at 3000 rpm. Hmmm. When I got back I notices the sensor was drenched in collar from all the fills, refills, etc. I cleaned it and dried it out.drove it to the spot to have my friend tow it home for me (about 200 feet) and the speed was correct. Hoping that was the limp mode issue.


Anyway looking hopeful!

Odie
20170528_144958.jpg
 
Vss was the limp mode issue. Vtec (yo) kicks in now. Wow. Crazy.
Still having coolING issues. Next suggestion was the 48 year old radiator doesn't flow well. So I got the okee dokee from the house bank (wife) to buy a replacement. Now for the research on which.

Video later today. From cold I can make it around the block without over heating

Odie
 
Not that a 48 year old read can't be a problem, we all know it can. However, if you only make it around the block from cold, the radiator wouldn't be a major player. Unless you live on a really big block? Or is there no t-stat?
 
What is the current routing of the hoses out of curiosity.

I would agree that it is unlikely to be the radiator if going the short distance unless it was fully warmed up and the run around the block was full banzai mode...

If you go for a new radiator, consider a Scirocco radiator. There are several threads about these and which one to choose. There is one that has no filler on it but does have a small hose attachment to the top of the tank on one side which can serve as an air bleed. The hose arrangement gets a bit wonky but it works.

Vicks and Midwest both offer aluminum radiators which fit properly. The Midwest one can use your existing fans.
 
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Block is about 1.5 miles. Started at 75 and pulled in about 203. Full throttle 1st and second to redline. When we were fighting the issue, we where thinking head gasket. But we pressure tested the cooling system and it stayed steady.

Oh there is a thermostat. What would you think I should look next?

Odie
 
Current. Routing. Heater bypassed going in top of expansion coming out bottom back to return. Bypass loop is stock. Main: new top coolant neck (with filler) to radiator. Radiator back to thermostat with an inline bleeder right before thermostat

Odie
 
More info. Hose going to radiator is HOT. Can still squeeze, but hot. Line before thermostat is only warm. May still be an air pocket, but not sure how to get that out. Maybe time to get the vacuum coolant filler. As it is cheaper than the aluminum radiators and my mechanic friend could use it as well.

Odie
 
Stupid question, did you bleed the radiator? There is a bleed screw in the left front of the front trunk. Use care in loosening and tightening it as it is a bit delicate.

Are you certain the thermostat is opening?

Either way this is exciting progress. Congrats
 
yes I bled the radiator.
the thermostat tested out ok when we bought it using the boiling water test.

well it was exciting. went out to video a run around the block and discovered a bad bad thing. going to be moving it back to storage insurance. looks like the 48 year old coolant pipes under the car finally are puking. drip drip drip. looks like I will be buying copper pipe soon :(

Odie
 
ok, think I have a eureka moment. while changing the radiator to the texas heat, I noticed the hoses near the radiator were pretty much dead, flimsy as heck. because it is in such a weird place to look, i never though of them being bad and possibly collapsing. Down side, it is sunday the 2nd, and i doubt anyone has this in stock. would the "universal: ribbed style work?

Odie
 
autox19 said:
the "universal: ribbed style work?

Odie
Click to expand...

Glad progress is being made.

The universal ribbed style would be a good work around for now, I would replace them with OE type hoses at your earliest opportunity. Mainly to ensure there is the least amount of secondary drag in the system.

So I have been thinking about this for a bit and it may have been suggested by others previously, have you considered possibly adding a secondary electric coolant pump? Something along the lines of the ones used by some companies to run air to water intercoolers or to circulate coolant after the engine has shut off to provide heat to the interior of the car?

The Honda one may fine for the small number of feet of hose in the front of the car but may not be up to the job of pushing coolant all the way forward and then back.
 
progress again!! I think... so I got the new tubes, new radiator, superstat in. Still runs into 210 before I shut it down in my drive. BUT. progress is made because the radiator get hot now! so I am 99% sure I have circulation or the heat soak in antifreeze is crazy. What IU now think is happening is fan isnt kicking on. ok, I know it isnt, but I am pretty sure it should. my next try is to wire a relay from the Honsa ecu fan signal to run the fan up front.

odie
 
I like the idea of running the fan off the ecu, just make sure it is to the relay...I know dumb admonition but there I go.

Yeah it shouldn't be running up that high, my fan on my new 87 kicks on around 195-200 as far as I can tell.

Stupid question, what sensor are you getting your temp from? Is it a Honda sensor to a Honda gauge or a Honda sensor to a Fiat gauge or a Fiat sensor to a Fiat gauge?

I don't recall, do you have one of those trick laser heat sensors to see what the surface temp is on different parts? Is it really up around 200 or is it a sensor issue?
 
Well. I will answer the questions. After I have to post to admitting semi defeat. Taking insurance off monday. Took it for a run around the block thinking air flow would cool it. Nope. Didn't. But the radiator was cool telling me it is a flow problem. I have to pull the engine to replace the water pump. Won't have time for awhile for that.

Answers. Yes it runs a relay for the fans. Going to run the relay wires up to the front to a relay. Senor is on the head. Temp reading I am getting is directly from the ecu to a multi guage specific to the honda (tunerview II to be exact) I have not Lazered it yet but will next week

Odie
 
popular belief on the honda sites is I have either a blown head gasket, warped or cracked head. The reasoning is how fast it get to over heating. Plausible, but I dont really see bubbles or missing coolant, of course I havent run it long enough to really notice missing coolant. Good part about the head gasket, it can be done in the car, where the water pump cant. Down side, head gasket is $75 with the head bolts being another $75. And really, if I am going to do this, I am replacing the bolts with ARP studs. ($170). If the head is warped or cracked, I do have the one form the other engine that disnt over heat in the honda it was pulled from (drove it 75 miles from where I bought it without an issue) Background, this is the first engine I swapped in but we forgot to prelube the bearings after sitting for 7 years and beat the bearing up after first few start ups.

Odie
 
I've successfully traced a cracked cylinder head using compressed air. Remove sparkplug on cylinder under test, rotate engine until cylinder is at TDC, introduce compressed air into cylinder through spark plug hole (I used 6bar if I remember correctly), check that coolant level doesn't rise in expansion tank (cap removed obviously), test each cylinder in turn. Engine might want to rotate, so I put the gearbox in 5th and chocked the wheels to stop it driving off under compressed air power :p You get the idea!
 
Compressed air powered X, a new innovation!

Yeah I would check with compressed air before I ripped it apart.
 
holy crap!! I have cooling!!!!!!!!
replaced head gasket. still overheating. ugh. hit up a different honda site. (honda-tech) they recommended 2 things. 1. switch heater return with bypass return. this will allow bypass to hit the thermostat directly instead of the heater return. (with hondas heater not being a close the circuit type heater circuit I didnt think it would matter.) then switch to a OEM honda thermostat. POOF hit 190,, then 187, 186... etc.. went up and radiator is warm!!! woo hoo!!!!! ok so I have to finish the body work, and figure out a low idle when warm, then I am good to go!! well this was all in the garage (door open) did not take it for a spin yet. Oh and I also have to reseal the thermomstat. there is a small leak. I must not have sealed it all the way.

Odie
 
autox19 said:
holy crap!! I have cooling!!!!!!!!
replaced head gasket. still overheating. ugh. hit up a different honda site. (honda-tech) they recommended 2 things. 1. switch heater return with bypass return. this will allow bypass to hit the thermostat directly instead of the heater return. (with hondas heater not being a close the circuit type heater circuit I didnt think it would matter.) then switch to a OEM honda thermostat. POOF hit 190,, then 187, 186... etc.. went up and radiator is warm!!! woo hoo!!!!! ok so I have to finish the body work, and figure out a low idle when warm, then I am good to go!! well this was all in the garage (door open) did not take it for a spin yet. Oh and I also have to reseal the thermomstat. there is a small leak. I must not have sealed it all the way.

Odie
Click to expand...

Great news. I hope my meddling wasn’t the cause of your troubles. I would bet that thermostat was much of your issue.

So will we see this beast this year here in the west?
 
kmead said:
Great news. I hope my meddling wasn’t the cause of your troubles. I would bet that thermostat was much of your issue.

So will we see this beast this year here in the west?
Click to expand...
Meddling? No such thing! I am thinking it was a combo of things. Makes me feel like i didn't change the radiator, change the coolant tubes, change the head gasket, change the water pump, change the thermostat 2 times for nothing :)
If all goes well it should be on the road by may. Still have to finish up the body work. I also might try to find out what is wrong with the heater and re hook that up. Back roads from Lansing to GR can be a little fun!

Odie
 
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