Battery terminal connector - anyone using one of these?

Agree with Don. You don't want all of those wires connecting to the battery post terminal. MUCH better approach would be to add one very heavy gage lead to a separate power post, then add all of your extra power take-offs from there. There's lots of power distribution post styles to choose from. Here's just a couple:
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Agree with Don. You don't want all of those wires connecting to the battery post terminal. MUCH better approach would be to add one very heavy gage lead to a separate power post, then add all of your extra power take-offs from there. There's lots of power distribution post styles to choose from. Here's just a couple:
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I have one of those, although deciding where to put it is my dilema. I've looked at the frunk wall near the battery and inside behind the Bertone passenger filler panel. I like the frunk as it's simple and closeby, which would keep fuse lengths at a minimum. But anything added in there could look 'junky'? hmm
 
I have one of those, although deciding where to put it is my dilema. I've looked at the frunk wall near the battery and inside behind the Bertone passenger filler panel. I like the frunk as it's simple and closeby, which would keep fuse lengths at a minimum. But anything added in there could look 'junky'? hmm
I mounted mine under the passenger side dash, on the bottom of the battery box (above the footwell). So it is behind the fuse box on a 1500 X. That puts it right between the battery terminals and the fuse/relay box, where all of the power wires on the distribution will go. Your '74 is completely different under there so I can't say how that would work for you. But my take is this is only a connection point for wires, and not a fuse or relay panel or other item that will need to be serviced. So once it is installed I won't need access to it and would rather it be out of the way - both from contact (as might happen in the frunk) and visually.
 
I have one of those, although deciding where to put it is my dilema. I've looked at the frunk wall near the battery and inside behind the Bertone passenger filler panel. I like the frunk as it's simple and closeby, which would keep fuse lengths at a minimum. But anything added in there could look 'junky'? hmm
On an early car putting it behind the Bertone filler panel is great in that it is hidden and unlikely to come in contact with anything untoward. The issue is where do you need it to be to provide power to the things you need to power. If it needs to be in the frunk then put it there. Perhaps one in each place so you can have easily accessed power for the passenger compartment and in the frunk?

There is room behind the glovebox on a late car so I will have one there.
 
The issue is where do you need it to be to provide power to the things you need to power.
Exactly. In my case I added all of the new "upgrades" relays and such to the stock fuse box and rewired the car accordingly. So having the power distribution close to the fuse box was ideal. That also allows easy addition of power feeds with the existing "brown" wires to the fuse panels if desired (which I did).
 
On an early car putting it behind the Bertone filler panel is great in that it is hidden and unlikely to come in contact with anything untoward. The issue is where do you need it to be to provide power to the things you need to power. If it needs to be in the frunk then put it there. Perhaps one in each place so you can have easily accessed power for the passenger compartment and in the frunk?

There is room behind the glovebox on a late car so I will have one there.
I have four, maybe five red leads that mostly originate in the frunk. It’s possible, with some major fishing, I could get them inside the cabin. There’s some room on an early car, up and behind the glove box as well - so that’s possible. But for sheer simplicity, in the frunk is likely the spot.
 
My main junction is in the Frunk. It is ungainly though, even more so now with the Honda ELD circuit

I incorporated a 'mighty' fuse at the same time.

old version
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K24 swap version
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My main junction is in the Frunk. It is ungainly though, even more so now with the Honda ELD circuit

I incorporated a 'mighty' fuse at the same time.

old version
E621-C3-EA-CF49-4129-82-AA-FBD9-C70762-F6.jpg


K24 swap version
IMG-20200112-150101.jpg
Very hardcore/industrial - makes the car look more mighty :) It's likely I'll have to frunk-it as well. Never thought of sticking relays on the battery cover though. Hmmm... let me think about that.
 
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My main junction is in the Frunk. It is ungainly though, even more so now with the Honda ELD circuit

I incorporated a 'mighty' fuse at the same time.

old version
E621-C3-EA-CF49-4129-82-AA-FBD9-C70762-F6.jpg


K24 swap version
IMG-20200112-150101.jpg
Were you concerned keeping fuses within 18” of the battery, or did it just work out that way.
The relays on the battery cover are unique too :)
I have far less power than you to deal with. Is that 18” rule firm, or can you move fuses a little further away…
 
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My battery is still in good shape. But I was thinking about purchasing a smaller size battery the next time I need one. That way I can install relays and an extra power source all hidden under the original battery cover. That would give a clean appearance in the frunk.
 
My battery is still in good shape. But I was thinking about purchasing a smaller size battery the next time I need one. That way I can install relays and an extra power source all hidden under the original battery cover. That would give a clean appearance in the frunk.
Yeah, hiding everything under there would be nice.
 
This is my setup all hidden under the battery cover.
MTA power distribution BUS with fuses.
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2 lines from the battery distribution block feed 2 Bluesea blade fuses buses one 8 fuse the other 4. I’ve left space to replace the 4 position bus with an 8 if needed. This gives me 12 fused power sources expandable to 16.
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These are mounted on the passenger side on the back of the battery box on a custom made aluminium support.
 
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This is my setup all hidden under the battery cover.
MTA power distribution BUS with fuses.
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2 lines from the battery distribution block feed 2 Bluesea blade fuses buses one 8 fuse the other 4. I’ve left space to replace the 4 position bus with an 8 if needed. This gives me 12 fused power sources expandable to 16.
View attachment 70694
These are mounted on the passenger side on the back of the battery box on a custom made aluminium support.
Nicely done.

Interesting battery cover, it was vacuum formed. Is it OE solution for RHD cars or was that an aftermarket part?
 
That’s the OE factory cover for RHD.
I thought it was pretty much the same style as LHD?
Looks roughly the same but ours are an injected plastic cover and quite shiny. The plastic used is very brittle, in use, most end up cracked.

On yours, you can tell by the radii of the part and the material was pre textured sheet material. The cut off is another tell tale as long with thinning in areas like the hold down screw openings.

Interesting difference. A tool to make a production parts by vac form is around 8k dollars, an injection mould the size needed for the cover with the needed action would be easily five times more. Part cost is the trade off due to labor to trim the excess on a vac form.
 
Still humming and hawing on the best way to deal with seven, positive terminal devices.
Poking around on Amazon I found this - anyone ever used one? 12-point buss/connector all in one:

Personally I would not use a ‘wire clamped by a grub screw’ solution. This connection will be moved over time which puts stress on a clamped connection of many individual wires which will tend to squirm/displace the more it gets used eventually causing a poor connection. Yes there are things to ameliorate the issue but why not avoid the problem entirely?

I would prefer a solution which has the wires crimped into a connector and then bolted down.

The MTA catalog has some nice parts.
 
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Ahh ok I see what you mean now☺️ I thought they were all textured.
Luckily mine is in good condition as RHD battery covers are super hard to find.
Even the chrome hold downs are in great condition fortunately.
 
Personally I would not use a ‘wire clamped by a grub screw’ solution. This connection will be moved over time which puts stress on a clamped connection of many individual wires which will tend to squirm/displace the more it gets used eventually causing a poor connection. Yes there are things to ameliorate the issue but why not avoid the problem entirely?

I would prefer a solution which has the wires crimped into a connector and then bolted down.

The MTA catalog has some nice parts.
I’m wrestling with the ‘generally’ rule that likes to see inline fuses from things like audio, wipers, headlight relays 18” from the battery. If 24” is ok, I’m considering other ideas. Also thinking of using the wiper tunnel for running wires left/right.
It’s too bad the battery cover isn’t six inches wider…
 
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