Bob Martin's Abarth Swap

gene cooley

Autocrosser
The high pressure filter is from a Mazda RX7 with fuel injection. Return is back to the bottom of the tank. Abarth runs at 58 PSI. The variable speed pump would be an upgrade possibly down the road. Currently what I have for the few miles I drive it each year seems to work without issue. I issue with using the stock pump is that the Abarth OEM tank is flat and the X fuel tank is high. It would take some different engineering to allow the stock OEM pump to work correctly. When I test the engine in the test body the fuel cell I use has the stock OEM pump in it with fuel tank level sending unit.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
We use a similar setup to your current one on our 600 autocrosser with the '07 Saturn Ecotec.
The Saturn doesn't use a return at the fuel rail.
In our case we are using a Summit 3 gallon aluminum race tank with connections top and bottom. We use a Walbro/MSD? 80-100 PSI pump pulling from the bottom of the tank with a carb filter ahead of the pump. The pump outlet runs back to a bypass regulator mounted directly to the top of the tank.
The pressure line continues on to the fuel rail, no filter or gauge after the pump. It's been running for 8 autocross seasons with no problems.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
I don't have a muffler on my car, just the Cat and a small resonator, the turbo charger kills the sound. It is not loud at all.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Keep forgetting to ask about this - Volvo turbo without muffler is loud except at idle - I find it hard to believe that the Fiat would be that quiet, even if the displacement is small.

I have 3" exhaust & added cutout for when I want it loud...

 

TonyK

True Classic
The difference I think is because of the small scroll on the Abarth engine turbo charger that spins at 230,000 RPM. If the exhaust note was loud I would deal with it because I do not like loud cars. Bob does and we may have to put speakers and an amplifier to increase the sound of the exhaust note.

TonyK

At Bob Martin's in Radcliff Kentucky.
 
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lookforjoe

True Classic
As we progress there are several directions that we seem to be going all at once. All of the hoses and body components need to be installed in this build.

TonyK.
Hey Tony, what do you use to protect the bodywork? I need to tape off mine for the ensuing work.

 

TonyK

True Classic
Well… The white as you see is a peel and stick plastic covering that I purchased a roll of many years ago to cover model helicopter rotor blades. The paper backing is fairly strong so if I am sand blasting I only peel the edge to give the plastic covering more strength.

Years ago these peel and stick products were used to line drawers with and hardware stores sold it by the roll. The Green is 2" masking tape I purchased at an Auto Body Supply warehouse.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Well… The white as you see is a peel and stick plastic covering that I purchased a roll of many years ago to cover model helicopter rotor blades. The paper backing is fairly strong so if I am sand blasting I only peel the edge to give the plastic covering more strength.

Years ago these peel and stick products were used to line drawers with and hardware stores sold it by the roll. The Green is 2" masking tape I purchased at an Auto Body Supply warehouse.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Thanks Tony - vinyl shelf liner is readily available here, not expensive - I'll get some.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Continuing on... I have been working on this as time permits, so I will post a few progress pictures.

TonyK.

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New fabric being installed in rear trunk.
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Module box installed.
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The electrical part of the build starts early when the harness is harvested from the car. It is at this time some major thought needs to go into what is needed and what options should be retained to the person's liking.
Since this platform has many options, choices need to be made early in the build. It is possible to retain keyless entry, Electric door locks, cruise control and most other options on the car, or bare bones just want to have the engine run. So as for the electrics I am not going to get into a wire by wire requirement but just show what as been retained as per Bob Martin's request for his build.

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One upgrade that is required due to the fact that the battery is so far from the modules is a 1/O main power cable. Without it if the voltage at the ECU drops below 10.25 volts the engine cranking is stopped. Took a while to find that one. Symptom is a starter solenoid that keeps dropping out and chatters. On the stock X, it will crank at lower voltages than this.

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Impact sensor installed.
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Starting with the dash wiring and changes, which include installing A/C to this car.

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With some changes I managed to keep the throws short for the shifter and the stock shifter boot and opening in the centre counsel was retained.
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Still working on it.

TonyK.
 

kmead

Old enough to know better
Impressive as always. Amazing how much time these things can take.

Reverse engineering a modern car into a vintage one is an amazing undertaking. Not many could solve this problem. Good thing the right man is on it.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Thanks Karl, but stupidity sometimes blinds reality. My issue... I think anything is possible with enough time and effort.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

kmead

Old enough to know better
My wife says that differently about me with some regularity.

Occasionally it does actually work out :) even for me.
 

TonyK

True Classic
A few more progress pictures of Bob's Build.

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Showing the clearance for the shifter rods and brake lever.

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A shot the other way with the fastening point for the cables.
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The power window plugs will be cable tied into place, I just cannot remember if the red plug goes on the left or right side of the council.
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Stock shifter boot will work nicely. Bob will cut the shifter rod to a length of his liking.


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Bob asked for a 3rd brake light for his car which did not have the wiring in this location of his 86 car. Found the light strip on ebay for $12 USD.

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A set of gauges were also part of the build.
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Just a few more wires to tack down and I will have the passenger compartment completed.
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Well all of the wiring is completed. Testing it and trouble shooting will be the next issue to resolve.

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TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

Daniel Forest

True Classic
Nice job on the gauge panel. I did something similar, but with a molded plastic panel covered with a black vinyl padding. I like yours better. Also, I put mine in place of the center vents in the console. I would like to keep a radio for awhile but maybe if I'm going for something more modern smaller module(Bluetooth / MP3), that would be an option. Anyway, the gauges are there but I didn't hooked them yet! :oops:
 

TonyK

True Classic
Progress pictures. I have been busy helping my son as he is building a house. We scraped top soil in the past few weekends and now have the hole excavated. So between that I work on Bob's car. I have installed the insulation on the removable cover in the spare tire well. The to do list is also posted, it is getting shorter.

TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Nice work on both fronts.

Tony, what are you using to cover the panel? Is that a layer of butyl first, or a closed cell foam product? What is the metallic weave-looking product? Trying to figure out what I will be using on mine.
 

TonyK

True Classic
Hi Hussein,
The silver I sourced and can be found here on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Turbo-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It holds up really well and I did the engine bay on my car and Bob's car on the fire wall side.

The other was supplied by Bob Martin and it appears to be a thin version of header wrap but in sheet form. I have never used it before, but also lined parts of the Bob's engine bay with it.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Hi Hussein,
The silver I sourced and can be found here on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Turbo-Exhaust-Heat-Shield-Muffler-Hood-Insulation-Fiberglass-Cotton-Wrap-Mat/331949341738?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It holds up really well and I did the engine bay on my car and Bob's car on the fire wall side.

The other was supplied by Bob Martin and it appears to be a thin version of header wrap but in sheet form. I have never used it before, but also lined parts of the Bob's engine bay with it.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Many Thanks, Tony. I ordered a couple pieces to ensure I have enough. I had ordered a Dynamat version, but it's too thick to use in my case, I'd be back with no gap for the TB bobbin.
 

Halt

In the begining
Tony,

I have been given access to a damaged Alfa Mito and was wondering if you have a list of the parts I would need to retrieve to carry out the engine swap into and X.
The Alfa Mito engine in an Australian car is the same as the engine in the US Abarth I believe.
 
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gwbfiat

True Classic
Hi Tony,

Have you heard of this stand alone engine management ecu? https://ecumasterusa.com/products/e...=1&_sid=9fc6fcfea&_ss=r&variant=8318139039805

It looks like is is a Polish company but they have a authorized dealer in Texas, USA. Would this ecu allow you to run the new Fiat 500 Abarth engine without all of the problems associated with the stock ecu? Not an expert by any means, that is why I am asking the apparently dumb question. I am curious to hear any and all feedback regarding this ecu and if it is a good solution to allowing the Fiat 1.4 abarth engine to be used as an engine swap without massive headaches.

Thanks in advance for everyone's input.

George
 

ng_randolph

Bjorn H
Hi Tony,

Have you heard of this stand alone engine management ecu? https://ecumasterusa.com/products/e...=1&_sid=9fc6fcfea&_ss=r&variant=8318139039805

It looks like is is a Polish company but they have a authorized dealer in Texas, USA. Would this ecu allow you to run the new Fiat 500 Abarth engine without all of the problems associated with the stock ecu? Not an expert by any means, that is why I am asking the apparently dumb question. I am curious to hear any and all feedback regarding this ecu and if it is a good solution to allowing the Fiat 1.4 abarth engine to be used as an engine swap without massive headaches.

Thanks in advance for everyone's input.

George
I doubt this would work on the Fiat 500 Abarth engine, or any Fiat MultiAir engine. The ECU you referenced is able to control valve timing for a few different systems (the web site lists VVTi, MIVEC, VANOS, Dual VANOS, AVCS), but MultiAir is radically different from those systems. The systems listed either have variable cam phasing, selection of different cam profiles, or both. MultiAir has a hydraulic connection between cam and valve, and the ECU manipulates this hydraulic connection on the fly to vary timing, lift and duration (although not entirely independently of each other). I know the ecumaster site lists Fiat 500, but in Europe there were many Fiat 500 variants sold without MultiAir.
 
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