Breathing Life Into a Neglected '75

jimmyx

True Classic
I'll start this thread in the right place as the "New Addition" thread is veering off the rails now.

Finished up the right side floor pan. Patches welded in, wire brushed metal and hit it with rust converter. Unless it's blasted, there is always rust there. After that applied 2 coats of rust encapsulator. Will lay down the generic Dynamat after the left side is completed. I was hopeful that the left side could be repaired the same way, but the amount of damage is right on the line, so I ordered a pan on ebay and will use maybe half of it for the repair.
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I decided to hit the engine with a power washer to see what's going on back there. We all have experienced the DPO, but this one has suffered the DPOS (dreaded prior owner's shop). The PO had zero mechanical inclination as evidenced by a mountain of repair invoices, so he had to pay good money to have some idiot make a mess. Alternator was changed at some point to an internally regulated 1-wire. The shop must have run out of wire for the alternator to starter lug feed wire, so hey, let's just use something out of the building's old fuse box and mount it behind a hood hinge just for good measure. Air pump bracket is held by 4 bolts - why waste time? Just use 2 so the mounting point breaks off the head. The cam box was removed as evidenced by the cheap RTV. Why would the cam box need to be removed? Probably to get the head off to replace the gasket after an engine got a little too toasty. All this with just a cursory look, who knows what other mechanical horrors are hiding in the shadows. I was hoping to change all the fluids and rubber to see how this would run. Have to scrap those plans as it is a fools errand. The oil smells like spar varnish - identical to the fuel tank. Better off to just drop this lump out and see if it's a candidate for a rebuild.

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These cars have been around for a long time with ample opportunity for everyone to do bad repairs on them and mechanics are no exception. Most of us have seen old Fiats with house wire nuts used in creative wiring. The 81 spider I got in October had two of the engine to transmission bolts not even finger tight and the top starter bolt missing...but the paint and body work were amazing. My 90 Miata had a front brake caliper bolt missing.

If you assume nothing was done right you will be way ahead of things.
 
House wiring. lol. Classic. My PO decided to NOT clamp the heater hose to anything, so it was slowly being eaten by the timing belt. Definitely not the work of a Master Mechanic :)
 
I got the right side floor covered and am still waiting for the L/S pan to finish up the floors.

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I cut the left side sound deadening and had some left over so I pulled out the original rats nest insulation in the spare tire well and finished that off as well.

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Moved on to the rear of the car to find and mitigate any other rust issues. I was expecting the worse on the lower trunk floor, but was really surprised by what I found. Really rare to find an early in this condition.

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Only have found a few rust issues on this one. A dime sized hole in the back corner of the battery box. I wanted to keep this repair undetectable, so I cut out the damage (approximately 1/2" x 1/2") and JB welded an 18ga. patch in from the bottom. Finished it off from the top with Devcon epoxy putty and sanded smooth. Both floors had a couple of relatively minor problems and one 1/4" spot above the tailpipe on the valence that will need a small patch welded in. All in all it's really amazing for a 46 year old that has a reputation of turning to iron oxide.
 
Had a little time to grind everything back on the front fender. Needed to get to pristine metal to see where this damage began and ended. Used the stud gun to pull the worst offenders out. Need to blast this corner to ready it for lead. I use Eastwood lead free solder. It's easier and safer to work with. This repair involves recreating some of the fender feature lines. Plastic filler can be used but it's never right for use on edges and feature lines because of it's lack of strength. Body shops use it all the time because they don't even know what body solder is anymore and they need fast production to make the cash register ring.

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I was able to salvage the trunk pad, although not sure that's really a plus. Trunk tray is getting painted tomorrow. I ordered a quart of body color this morning so I can spray the trunk, and frunk to get them finished.

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I was able to salvage the trunk pad, although not sure that's really a plus. Trunk tray is getting painted tomorrow. I ordered a quart of body color this morning so I can spray the trunk, and frunk to get them finished.

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I hope you’re taking some before, during and after paint-process photos. I’d never seen those stud-gun dent pullers used before until I saw them on Wheeler Dealers. They made it look way easier than it likely is, or is it?
Are you still in SoCal?
 
I got the right side floor covered and am still waiting for the L/S pan to finish up the floors.

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I cut the left side sound deadening and had some left over so I pulled out the original rats nest insulation in the spare tire well and finished that off as well.

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Moved on to the rear of the car to find and mitigate any other rust issues. I was expecting the worse on the lower trunk floor, but was really surprised by what I found. Really rare to find an early in this condition.

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Only have found a few rust issues on this one. A dime sized hole in the back corner of the battery box. I wanted to keep this repair undetectable, so I cut out the damage (approximately 1/2" x 1/2") and JB welded an 18ga. patch in from the bottom. Finished it off from the top with Devcon epoxy putty and sanded smooth. Both floors had a couple of relatively minor problems and one 1/4" spot above the tailpipe on the valence that will need a small patch welded in. All in all it's really amazing for a 46 year old that has a reputation of turning to iron oxide.
How effective is that sound deadening material, as the X really makes some decent noise...
 
I hope you’re taking some before, during and after paint-process photos. I’d never seen those stud-gun dent pullers used before until I saw them on Wheeler Dealers. They made it look way easier than it likely is, or is it?
Are you still in SoCal?
The gun is easy to use. Knowing where to place the stud and how much force to apply takes some practice.
 
How effective is that sound deadening material, as the X really makes some decent noise...
It absorbs some limited amount of panel vibration. Mainly used by those who like mega-amp sound systems. In my case it is used for rust protection. Water has a very difficult time finding its way underneath it. Most X noise is due to the proximity of the engine/exhaust being right behind your head and wind noise - insulation won't help much with those unfortunately.
 
It absorbs some limited amount of panel vibration. Mainly used by those who like mega-amp sound systems. In my case it is used for rust protection. Water has a very difficult time finding its way underneath it. Most X noise is due to the proximity of the engine/exhaust being right behind your head and wind noise - insulation won't help much with those unfortunately.
That’s what I hear as well. Is it glued down? That’s what keeps the water from getting underneath it?
 
That’s what I hear as well. Is it glued down? That’s what keeps the water from getting underneath it?
Basically butyl with an aluminum top layer. It is peel and stick. Pretty much roofing patch material without the smell. Once it's down it's not coming off without a heat gun.
 
Basically butyl with an aluminum top layer. It is peel and stick. Pretty much roofing patch material without the smell. Once it's down it's not coming off without a heat gun.
If and when I take my carpet off to be replaced, and there are no signs of rust, then that’s when to lay it down, yes?
 
If and when I take my carpet off to be replaced, and there are no signs of rust, then that’s when to lay it down, yes?
The factory sound deadening has to be removed first. Any rust issues will have to be corrected (and there WILL be some rust issues) before installing new butyl. Installing this over rusted areas will just make it more difficult in the future to rip it all out and fix it correctly. It's a filthy, dirty job, but better to do it right than have to revisit it again.
 
Finished up the trunk tray. It had some light surface rust, so it was sanded, 2 coats of rust converter, 2 coats of primer, and 2 coats of enamel. Lot of discussion of replacement insulation over the years and some that is water resistant has been suggested. Problem is while it may not absorb water, it can trap water between it and the trunk floor. My go to for this one is 1750 degree Boom Mat mounted to the underside of the tray. It'll serve the purpose of heat deflection and leaves a big air gap between it and the trunk floor. I had some thick ribbed rubber mat left over from a Chevelle wagon project, so I cut a new mat as the original was a little tired. Still waiting for the paint to arrive. The paint in the trunk is in very good shape, but the car will be repainted so if I refinish the trunk, engine compartment, frunk, and jambs I get a perfect match to the outer panels and can usually get my body guy to spray the rest very reasonably, depending on how desperate he is to make his rent/payroll.

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I thought I was pretty well done chasing rust, but no such luck. Tiny spot way down low caught my eye.
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Tiny spot turns into a major issue........

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Will have to fab this lower portion and front outer section of the R/quarter.

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Got a chance to cut the offending metal out today.

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Looks much better after that mess was gone.

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Started on building the patch.

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Set it up to be plug welded. Cap has a radical taper from top to bottom, so now the fun begins trying to get the profile on the edge right and weld the top cap on. Not too difficult, but eats up tons of time trying to get it to fit right.
 
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