Looking good. Who did you get your carpet kit from?
Once the console goes back in the only seam really visible is behind the seats. A good trim shop can run circles around the factory, or a dyi job, but the cost for that is not cheap. A run of the mill shop can do it for less, but with trim work, as with most things, you get what you pay for. When I say the install is easy, it comes from the perspective of someone that has installed numerous carpets in various vehicles, and I find the multi-piece kits the easiest. Carpet is not hard theoretically, but it is very unforgiving. Once you make those cuts, there is no going back. Trying to accurately cut the parking brake, shifter, seat tracks, and throttle pedal locations in a 1 piece kit is a nightmare and rarely if ever comes out exactly right - ask anyone who has done it.So, that seam down the middle doesn’t bug you at all? I’m thinking when you’re in the driver’s seat it wouldn’t be as noticeable. I like the idea of easy installation. And your comments about after-market carpet: you don’t think a good, interior refresh shop could do a job close to factory?
Not yet, still waiting for the snaps to be delivered. Two get installed at the rear edge on each side. Similar to the way most mats are installed in modern cars. The mats will not be retained at all. They have spike grip bottoms and are too heavy and tightly fitted to the footwell contours to move.Are the carpet pieces in the forward wells stuck down with something so they don’t move?
I will seriously consider selling it if the console ever has to come out again! If the heater core goes out, oh well, it's So-Cal so it will stay out before I remove the console, lol.Yeah, I get nervous anytime the console is coming out. Short spaghetti
I have the regulator set to 3 lbs. I fill the reservoir crack the bleeder and apply the pressure to flush the lines. The reservoir is not fed constant pressure - it's pressurized when required just like filling a tire (long end of regulator is a tire chuck so no shut-off needed). All that is needed is just a little over atmospheric pressure to get the fluid moving. I thought about a hand pump but most have a clamp type outlet to attach to the stem that requires pressure to seat it properly. Not a good thing on plastic components. Real pressure bleeders are the best, but quality units are expensive for what they are and the limited times I'll ever use it.That will work, but the pressure bleeders that they sell, will feed fluid under pressure.
To make yours easier to use, add a shut off valve, between the regulator and the cap, that way it will be easy to shut off to remove the cap and add fluid. Also a hand pump is really all that is needed, will be easier to control the low air pressure wanted. Should only need about 5 psi, if more is needed to get fluid to move, something is wrong.
I've just learned about lead body repair before seeing your post here. Where did you learn how to do it? Are there any references or manuals you've used?I have been avoiding the front fender repair, but it has to get done, so today was the day to start. Most of this prior repair was originally covered in 1/4-3/8" of plastic filler. If I were a pro at lead it would have none, but I'm far from it so the final repair will have a very thin skim coat to cover the imperfections in the lead and whatever else I've missed. Once everything looks passable, I'll spray a coat of rust encapsulator over the area, followed by 2K primer. Any filler will go over the primer. The reason is, the tinning solution gives off acidic gasses that flash rust any bare steel around including the panel you are working on. Sanding gets most of it, but it's far safer to treat it now than have it ruin the new paint later.
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