Breathing Life Into a Neglected '75

jimmyx

True Classic
Those white carpets - where did you get those? And, did you consider a flat-bottom wheel?
Those are very high quality new floor mats that came with the car. Too bad the color matches nothing.:( A flat bottom wheel was not on the agenda; not a fan of the look unless it's found inside an F-1.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Those are very high quality new floor mats that came with the car. Too bad the color matches nothing.:( A flat bottom wheel was not on the agenda; not a fan of the look unless it's found inside an F-1.

LOL - white mats make zero sense to me - are you taking your shoes off as you enter the car and putting on slippers ??? Those would be destroyed in one day of use for me...
 

tvmaster

True Classic
Those are very high quality new floor mats that came with the car. Too bad the color matches nothing.:( A flat bottom wheel was not on the agenda; not a fan of the look unless it's found inside an F-1.
Those mats look very nice indeed. Do you know if they can still be purchased, or were they old new stock
 

jimmyx

True Classic
Those mats look very nice indeed. Do you know if they can still be purchased, or were they old new stock
PO bought them 20 years ago from Bayless. There are similar mats available from the usual vendors, hopefully in more sensible color choices. ;)
 

jimmyx

True Classic
This car has to go in for paint anyway, so I'm thinking of eliminating the license plate lamps and welding up the holes. Car is getting a set of MWB bumper blocks too - just haven't removed the cowcatcher out back yet.

With all the body work involved it just kills me to have to respray this in olive drab green, but a color change will triple the work. Some shades of green look great, this is unfortunately not one of them.......

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Rodger

True Classic
This car has to go in for paint anyway, so I'm thinking of eliminating the license plate lamps and welding up the holes. Car is getting a set of MWB bumper blocks too - just haven't removed the cowcatcher out back yet.

With all the body work involved it just kills me to have to respray this in olive drab green, but a color change will triple the work. Some shades of green look great, this is unfortunately not one of them.......

View attachment 47857

View attachment 47858
Aren’t license plate lights required? I have been stopped in the past ‘cause mine were out.
 

tvmaster

True Classic
This car has to go in for paint anyway, so I'm thinking of eliminating the license plate lamps and welding up the holes. Car is getting a set of MWB bumper blocks too - just haven't removed the cowcatcher out back yet.

With all the body work involved it just kills me to have to respray this in olive drab green, but a color change will triple the work. Some shades of green look great, this is unfortunately not one of them.......

View attachment 47857

View attachment 47858
It’s still better than black, white, silver or red. I’ve got a hole in my back panel between the left license light and the plate. Can’t figure out what it’s for - factory or user-drilled. About the size of a quarter.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
It’s still better than black, white, silver or red. I’ve got a hole in my back panel between the left license light and the plate. Can’t figure out what it’s for - factory or user-drilled. About the size of a quarter.
Coul;d be they couldn't get into the trunk - does it align with the cable passage to the trunk latch?
 

tvmaster

True Classic
I’ve used this thread to inspire the spare-tire well re-do. I’ve got most of what I can off the metal with a heat gun and scraper. What’s the trick for the last, hard to remove gunk, a solvent of some kind, sandpaper, any ideas?

89753E21-85DE-4019-BC33-DBB915273415.jpeg
 

jimmyx

True Classic
I’ve used this thread to inspire the spare-tire well re-do. I’ve got most of what I can off the metal with a heat gun and scraper. What’s the trick for the last, hard to remove gunk, a solvent of some kind, sandpaper, any ideas?

View attachment 48169
I used a wire wheel (drill mounted) fairly lightly to get the fuzz off the adhesive. You want to try and avoid too much aggression, otherwise you'll have bare metal to refinish. Hit what's left with some acetone and apply your sound deadener. The adhesive is very strong and you don't need absolute perfection for proper adhesion. As long as there is no rust and no bare metal you'll be good to go. Luckily, this is one of the few areas on an X that is not particularly prone to rust anyway.
 

tvmaster

True Classic
I used a wire wheel (drill mounted) fairly lightly to get the fuzz off the adhesive. You want to try and avoid too much aggression, otherwise you'll have bare metal to refinish. Hit what's left with some acetone and apply your sound deadener. The adhesive is very strong and you don't need absolute perfection for proper adhesion. As long as there is no rust and no bare metal you'll be good to go. Luckily, this is one of the few areas on an X that is not particularly prone to rust anyway.
Ok, thanks. It’s pretty clean in there - just paint, no rust. Agreed I didn’t want to strip the paint that’s there already. I kinda wanted to keep to old fluff for romance, but it was crumbling everywhere besides the gas tank surround.
 

tvmaster

True Classic
I used a wire wheel (drill mounted) fairly lightly to get the fuzz off the adhesive. You want to try and avoid too much aggression, otherwise you'll have bare metal to refinish. Hit what's left with some acetone and apply your sound deadener. The adhesive is very strong and you don't need absolute perfection for proper adhesion. As long as there is no rust and no bare metal you'll be good to go. Luckily, this is one of the few areas on an X that is not particularly prone to rust anyway.
Any comments before I mess this up? Lol. The Noico arrived today, and the area is clean. You just rolled over those open stamp holes in the back, yes? Anything else - which place to start, finish, etc.?
 

jimmyx

True Classic
Any comments before I mess this up? Lol. The Noico arrived today, and the area is clean. You just rolled over those open stamp holes in the back, yes? Anything else - which place to start, finish, etc.?
Use some paper to make the rough patterns first for any tricky areas. Best way to cut the insulation is with a razor CARPET cutter (Lowe's or HD has them). Be extra careful with that cutter, it makes a razor blade look dull! Roll around openings, but not over the top of them. I start with the sides so I can cover the seams with the back sheet, but I don't think it makes much difference, just go with what looks right. Good luck!
 
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