Broken Hood Cable
- Thread starter Waterbury
- Start date
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
looks just like mine (has been broken since I got the car)
I just ordered a new cable from Bayless.. It was not very much money.
I just ordered a new cable from Bayless.. It was not very much money.
That is the best thing to do. There isn't any way to repair the busted cable. If you need to "lock" the frunk until you get the new cable, you could try pulling the broken cable end with a vice grip and then clamping onto the cable as close to the ferrule as possible with a second vice grip. Not ideal, and you might kick the vice grip.
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
Maybe one of those old fashioned throttle cable stops rather than the vise grips?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...l)/N0263/C0142.oap?page=1&sortBy=1&results=40
JBStories
Daily Driver
I have a lot of experience with this issue, having replaced the cable 4 times, learning what NOT to do. Honestly, it's a crappy design that puts enormous strain on the cable compared to a design where the latch itself does the work and the cable is simply a release. But I guess we're stuck with it. My recommendation is not to use the "piano wire" replacements you can get from MWB or others. They are just hard to work with. Instead, consider this alternative. Go to a local bicycle shop and ask for a Derailleur shift cable. They are sold with a stop welded on the end and in a standard length of 2300mm. The diameter is 1.1mm, which fits fine in the stock X cable housing.
Once you have this cable, you need to crimp a ferrule on the end with the integrated stop to create a loop. Do NOT do what I did on my 2nd attempt and simply use a spare nut and thread it through. The threads and hard edges on the nut eventually cut the cable given all the crazy stress this cable has to endure.
With the loop created, thread it up through the firewall and through the PITA set screw mechanism to adjust for a tight latch using very contorted hand positions. I typically get a helper to take the excess wire, wrap it around a piece of wood and pull with some serious weight on it while I tighten the screw. Do NOT do what I did on my 3rd attempt and over tighten the screw or it will cut the bike cable and send your helper to the ground in a human puddle of curse words and new bruises.
The advantage? This will cost you $4, is more flexible to work with, and ultimately stronger than the original single strand wire. In my case, it cost me $30 in failed attempts, but now you have been warned!
Once you have this cable, you need to crimp a ferrule on the end with the integrated stop to create a loop. Do NOT do what I did on my 2nd attempt and simply use a spare nut and thread it through. The threads and hard edges on the nut eventually cut the cable given all the crazy stress this cable has to endure.
With the loop created, thread it up through the firewall and through the PITA set screw mechanism to adjust for a tight latch using very contorted hand positions. I typically get a helper to take the excess wire, wrap it around a piece of wood and pull with some serious weight on it while I tighten the screw. Do NOT do what I did on my 3rd attempt and over tighten the screw or it will cut the bike cable and send your helper to the ground in a human puddle of curse words and new bruises.
The advantage? This will cost you $4, is more flexible to work with, and ultimately stronger than the original single strand wire. In my case, it cost me $30 in failed attempts, but now you have been warned!
A little extraneous info: The early cars do have a spring loaded release set up for the frunk. To latch the frunk you close frunk lid onto the latch, then press down on the frunk lid directly above the latch until you here it click. The release handle was inside the glove box area, so you could lock the glove box to "protect" the frunk if the roof is off.
Here is a picture of the handle in my 78, it is in the upper left corner of the picture.
I had only owned 79+ models prior to this 78. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to open the frunk when I bought this car. You can't see the handle without getting your head down in the foot well, so it is pretty well hidden up in there.
The change was made at the same time the interior was being redesigned for the 79 model year and some late 78 Xs had the late model set up. The early cable is pretty short given the proximity of the handle and latch, so I don't know if this complete early set up could be adapted to a late model. Perhaps an early latch could be transplanted into the late set up retaining the late model cable?
Here is a picture of the handle in my 78, it is in the upper left corner of the picture.
I had only owned 79+ models prior to this 78. It took me a few minutes to figure out how to open the frunk when I bought this car. You can't see the handle without getting your head down in the foot well, so it is pretty well hidden up in there.
The change was made at the same time the interior was being redesigned for the 79 model year and some late 78 Xs had the late model set up. The early cable is pretty short given the proximity of the handle and latch, so I don't know if this complete early set up could be adapted to a late model. Perhaps an early latch could be transplanted into the late set up retaining the late model cable?
Last edited:
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
I used an early latch flipped 180 degrees and an aftermarket cable and pull-handle assy:
https://www.xwebforums.com/forum/in...of-late-model-frunk-handle.15154/#post-119224
shonan19328
SUN RISING COUNTRY, JAPAN
I'm spending a lot of time to change the cable, first time.
I tried to use ordinary stainless wire selling at DIY store intead, but It's hard to access or tighten set bolt on latch, so upon your comments, to decide to use bicycle cable. And Noticed that if I install it stop end on latch lever side hall first, then no need to tighten set bolt. So,need to clinch wire on hand lever side to secure. then, so far so good.
Still have issue, How to access set bolt?
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
Yes it is very difficult to access the set screw on the latch end. IIRC, I removed the right hand side fresh air grille (three top screws, one side screw, one fully hidden screw that comes up from underneath), then unbolted the latch assy from inside the frunk (two 10mm cap screws), then removed the nuts holding the handle assembly to the kick panel, and pulled the handle assembly away from its mounting studs. Then, push the entire handle and cable assembly towards the front of the car while an assistant guides the cable and latch assembly from the center of the car towards the right side of the car. The entire latch assembly will move to the right and toward the right fresh air grille area. Once the latch is far to the right, it can be worked on, the set screw can be released and the broken inner wire can be removed and replaced.
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
I do the don't latch it system (my cable is broken) and my hood does not want to lay down correctly. I am thinking maybe something with the gasket I have not looked into it.
And here is a Mod a PO did that makes getting to that adjustment a LOT easier.
And here is a Mod a PO did that makes getting to that adjustment a LOT easier.