Can a '79, 49 state compliant, x1/9 be modified to pass CA smog?

There's some things I want to make sure are checked out before I attempt any more long distance driving with it. Today's heat of over 100 and heavy stop and go traffic really taxed the cooling system. I talked to Tdskip about it and he had never experienced the issue before. I figure I'll add the extra fan he supplied me with, and make sure the cooling system is functioning with the modified toggle switch to kick in the fans that is installed but disconnected at the moment. Since the car is new to me, I really want to get to know the ins and outs of the whole thing, including any systemic weak points, to insure that I don't break my new toy.

That being said, I hope to be able to address at least some of those issues before November.
There are some good threads in BOX for new owners to read. It covers many of the issues you want to start chasing down along with some upgrades. https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?tags/box-new-owner-info/

Did it in fact overheat or just appear to get hot?

Personally I would not do a switch to run the fan, I would add an alternative thermostatic switch to the radiator which has two temp outputs, this has been covered a number of times. The part is a VW part which fits perfectly and comes in versions which start running at a lower temperature. I am good with a little fan overkill particularly in a hot climate. An overheating car is not a fun car.

As this car has a 1500 conversion, did he change the alternator and the wiring to the later alternator system? The early cars had a very low amperage alternator which is a pain point, you might want to talk with @tvmaster about this issue.

Congrats on your purchase. It looked like a nice car.
 
I'm still running my original 32 amp alternator with no issues. Unless significant electric loads are added, 32 amps seems to be fine for a 74. There is not much to draw power continuously other than the lights and perhaps the heater fan. It is a popular mod to change the lighting to LEDs which can reduce the current draw by a factor of 6 - 8.
 
Engine swaps can be accomplished without too much aggravation if the vehicle and donor are similar. 1980-90s Jag XJs are swapped all the time. Monster Miata and small block Z-cars are other examples. The key to a swap that will make it past the referee is that the year of the car and the year of the engine be the same. It is usually very easy to retain the donor engine related emission equipment, fit the OEM cat, etc., but when the engine is newer than the vehicle the evaporative system is not certified for the newer year engine. No matter what you do to try and update it, the only way it'll fly is to install the entire system from the donor car which is usually not practical/possible. For a '79 X you can swap in any '79 engine you like, but what would that be exactly? Another misconception is that '67-'75 smog exempt vehicle have a free ride. The reality is that while the bi-annual test is waived, it's still illegal to perform a swap or tamper/remove any of the original emissions equipment. Is it a big risk to take? Not really. Although the ARB does set-up roadside sniffers with photographic plate recorders once in a while and roadside checkpoints, it's rare, but it does happen. Only safe avenues in this state to be free of requirements are to build a replica (Cobra, GT-40, Lotus 7, etc) and register it under the SB100 program as a 1966 or below. The only emission requirement is a PCV. Or, don't fool with anything other than pre-smog cars ('66 and down). Those you can drop a radial Lycoming in them if you want because no smog laws existed at the time of manufacture. There are no retro smog laws in the state except one. All vehicles must have a closed crankcase ventilation system regardless of year. Anything with a road draft tube, even a Model T has to be modified to a closed system. For anyone trying to use logic in thinking their K20 swap is a 100 times cleaner that what the car originally had, don't waste the effort. In a state with cities that outlaw charcoal for BBQ grills, we're just lucky these bureaucrats haven't outlawed driving any car over 10 years old - at least not yet, but give it time.......... One final note, if you play around the edge of the law in California (modified 67-75 car, claimed a low value for sales tax, have out of state registration and plates on anything, etc.) stay far away from Cars and Coffee and local show events. ARB and DMV investigators have been known to be in attendance now and then, and it's not because they are car enthusiasts.
Sir, where, and what, are the designations to know what year and engine was originally in? Looking at buying a donor engine, but not sure where to ID the year. Thanks
 
Sir, where, and what, are the designations to know what year and engine was originally in? Looking at buying a donor engine, but not sure where to ID the year. Thanks
Not sure if they are date coded? Need somebody with more knowledge to chime in. You're car is smog exempt so I don't think it makes much difference what year you source an engine from.
 
Not sure if they are date coded? Need somebody with more knowledge to chime in. You're car is smog exempt so I don't think it makes much difference what year you source an engine from.
If It's inexpensive enough, thought it would be a good idea to buy a spare and learn how to work on THAT one first. lol. But apples to apples would be my first choice, and it wouldn't hurt I suppose to have a donor which may produce needed parts as well. I know they're stamped somehow, just not how.
Thanks
 
If you have all the original smog equipment from your 1300, you should be able to transfer it to a later engine. If you go with a 1500, you will need the later air injection manifold. If you are using a 49 state model, you can probably move the air pump, cam pulley, and other bits from your 1300 Your 32DMTRA carb would be an improvement for any carbed engine.
 
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