Can the strut plate at the top of the strut tower be straightened?

JimD

JimD

Waiting for Godot...
Moderator
A local buddy with a 76X had a suspension failure due to rust last fall. After waiting 6 months for the shop to fix that issue, the shop now says they notice the strut plate is deformed. Here is a the part at MWB, but the only have right side parts available. My buddy needs the left side.

So the question is, can the existing part be "straightened"? Or is this a case where the part, once deformed. is better of replaced? Maybe get it straightened up and then install some of ChrisO's Plaia Bigfoots?

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. My buddy and I are having a hard time finding a meeting time where we can both be there when the shop is open. I will try to get a picture from the shop if they wont let me come check it out since it isnt my car.
 
Always contact Matt if you don't see the part on line, he has lots of stuff not in the catalog. Without pictures, we can't begin to answer this question.
 
carl said:
Always contact Matt if you don't see the part on line, he has lots of stuff not in the catalog. Without pictures, we can't begin to answer this question.
Click to expand...
Thanks carl, MWB says they cannot help at this time. I guess the fire took out their stash of parts cars?? Anyway, I will try to get pictures later today.
 
I don't see any reason why it can't be straightened, so long as it isn't damaged beyond just needing straightening and it isn't rusted badly. Several others have flattened the top area after it has been deformed upward (domed) - that's a common thing to happen on these cars. Personally I'd rather straighten the original sheet metal than cut and weld in another one (which also may not be flat by the way).
 
You option of Plaia's big foots is a good one. Especially together if used on a late car model (with the round shape over the hole).
 
Once metal has been pushed out of it's original form, reverting it back will further stress the part could cause a part failure.. depends on the materials involved, how the part was made-formed and...

Once bent, bending it back often does not result in the strength the part once had. Corrosion also takes a toll on the strength, fatigue resistance and durability of a part.


Bernice
 
Thanks everyone. Hopefully I will get a chance to look at it today. This shop had the car for 6 months and didn't notice this deformation till the alignment phase. I am very interested to see what it looks like.
 
JimD said:
Thanks everyone. Hopefully I will get a chance to look at it today. This shop had the car for 6 months and didn't notice this deformation till the alignment phase. I am very interested to see what it looks like.
Click to expand...
FWIW.... I was able to flatten the deformed sheet metal on mine enough to install a Plaia bigfoot, and the car aligned up properly and has stayed that way. I wouldn't trust it without the Plaia plate though.

I don't know how much I'd blame the shop - I didn't notice my deformed strut tower top until long after "I should have", and I'm supposed to know to look for it.
 
I have straightened these many times, including one on my then street car (77 1300). The process is pretty simple on a 1300.

Put the car on jack stands and remove the strut from the bent tower. Use a block of wood big enough to cover the majority of the top of the turret. A section of 2x6 works well. Use a hole saw to bore a hole through the 2x6 large enough to fit over the lip of the opening in the turret. Place the block over the top of the turret centering the lip of the opening in the hole in the block. Now place a second block (with no hole) of wood atop the first. Now use a dead blow hammer (I like my 2lbs) on the blocks to drive the turret flat. Use modest force to start and gauge how much movement you get. Use a straight edge across the flat of the turret to check your progress. Depending on how badly its bent two or three moderate blows should be adequate. Obviously, start easy and work your way up. It doesn't take a big hit.

If the metal is cracked between the top mount stud hole and the center opening you will want to weld those up. If its not cracked, its not all that bad.

The turrets get bent when the suspension is bottomed hard. Yes, it stresses/fatigues the metal but this is a legitimate repair method. One fix shouldn't cause you any long term issue. If you bend/straighten multiple times you are going to crack the turret.

Of the cars I have straightened I never had an issue. This includes a couple of track cars that had 'offs' that were pretty brutal. I also had to straighten the floor pan on one of those cars. :oops:
 
Here it is. Domed, but not doomed I think. Tried everything I could think of to get the photo upright, but Xweb is fighting me. It looks perfect on my phone and PC, but upside down on Xweb. :( You can see the studs on the top mount pointing in odd directions.

20200803_134627.jpg
20200803_134516.jpg
 
Steve Hoelscher said:
I have straightened these many times, including one on my then street car (77 1300). The process is pretty simple on a 1300.

Put the car on jack stands and remove the strut from the bent tower. Use a block of wood big enough to cover the majority of the top of the turret. A section of 2x6 works well. Use a hole saw to bore a hole through the 2x6 large enough to fit over the lip of the opening in the turret. Place the block over the top of the turret centering the lip of the opening in the hole in the block. Now place a second block (with no hole) of wood atop the first. Now use a dead blow hammer (I like my 2lbs) on the blocks to drive the turret flat. Use modest force to start and gauge how much movement you get. Use a straight edge across the flat of the turret to check your progress. Depending on how badly its bent two or three moderate blows should be adequate. Obviously, start easy and work your way up. It doesn't take a big hit.

If the metal is cracked between the top mount stud hole and the center opening you will want to weld those up. If its not cracked, its not all that bad.

The turrets get bent when the suspension is bottomed hard. Yes, it stresses/fatigues the metal but this is a legitimate repair method. One fix shouldn't cause you any long term issue. If you bend/straighten multiple times you are going to crack the turret.

Of the cars I have straightened I never had an issue. This includes a couple of track cars that had 'offs' that were pretty brutal. I also had to straighten the floor pan on one of those cars. :oops:
Click to expand...


Thanks Steve, this will probably be what we do to it. I did not see any cracks around the nuts on the studs. The guy at the shop basically laid out this approach, except he said he would use a pipe that fit over the opening. The shop guy said the owner can hammer on it for free or pay the shop to hammer on it. It will need a fresh alignment afterwards for sure.
 
Glad to help Jim.

I use the block of wood to try and spread out the force. Also, the block of wood should extend to or beyond the edges of the turret. If it does then you can't drive the surface too far. Once its flush with the edges it won't go any further. Unless you hit it _really_ hard. ;)

Also, you're going to need to replace the top mount. Not only is the crown bent but the rubber isolator is probably ruined. I once saw the rubber pushed right out of the mount. But that was the least of the problems.
 
Steve Hoelscher said:
Glad to help Jim.

I use the block of wood to try and spread out the force. Also, the block of wood should extend to or beyond the edges of the turret. If it does then you can't drive the surface too far. Once its flush with the edges it won't go any further. Unless you hit it _really_ hard. ;)

Also, you're going to need to replace the top mount. Not only is the crown bent but the rubber isolator is probably ruined. I once saw the rubber pushed right out of the mount. But that was the least of the problems.
Click to expand...

I have a scrap of 2x6 around here somewhere. I agree Steve, that top mount will need to be replaced. I will tell the owner save it though, just as a souvenir. I will tell the owner to order some new mounts.
 
Hey Jim. Should be an easy fix. But I would use a different method......

There are available....a much better version of the strut top strengthening plates. One that covers the ENTIRE flat area ( or the area that should be flat LOL ) of the strut tower. Simply hold one of them - even better use the two doubled up them just during the straightening - up inside the strut tower, and run three M6 bolts and nuts and washers though the holes in the plates and through the three holes in the strut tower. Gradually in sequence tighten the nuts That will draw the top of the strut tower back flat again. Easy....

Re-install the struts with the strengthening plates - one per side of course - sandwiched between the top of the strut and the inside of the tower. Just like new - only stronger !!
 
I've tried searching for (FIAT, X1/9) 'strut reinforcement' 'strut doubler' 'Strut plate" without coming up with much besides the known doubler plate, and a bunch of BMW options - give us a clue, Doug! :D
 
lookforjoe said:
I've tried searching for (FIAT, X1/9) 'strut reinforcement' 'strut doubler' 'Strut plate" without coming up with much besides the known doubler plate, and a bunch of BMW options - give us a clue, Doug! :D
Click to expand...
Same here. I have moved on. These things are a non-entity as far as I am concerned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top