Carb Spacer?

[GarageTimeTV]

Hello everyone!
I am back for the final question (at least I hope). I have a 1968 850 Spider and when I want to accelerate, the throttle on my 30 DIC has what looks like a counter weight on it. When I try to open up full throttle, the arm rotates and hits the intake and won’t open the secondaries.
In other words, is there supposed to be a spacer under the carb so that it won’t hit? Or do I need to shave it down some to not hit.

 

[dnudelman]

Hi Marshall.
That is a vacuum valve that's part of the useless emissions control system. Here is what I did.
1. Purchased this spacer from ebay. I'm in a hot climate, and so are you. Hat tip Flaviaman. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263262872278?epid=2099344151&hash=item3d4bb0a2d6:g:ky4AAOSw0H9Z4jo3
You will need longer studs/bolts.

2. I removed all the vacuum fittings from the manifold and plugged holes with set screws and locktite. A John Edwards youtube trick. You could try rubber caps instead but I like the cleaner look.

 

[GarageTimeTV]

Thank you!!

 

[Jeff Stich]

I have a 1968 850 Spider and when I want to accelerate, the throttle on my 30 DIC has what looks like a counter weight on it. When I try to open up full throttle, the arm rotates and hits the intake and won’t open the secondaries. In other words, is there supposed to be a spacer under the carb so that it won’t hit? Or do I need to shave it down some to not hit.

No spacer plate is needed, your carb linkage is as it should be. The round metal piece that your linkage is getting hung up on is a plunger valve (basically a spring-loaded piston) which is supposed to be pushed down by that lug on the linkage arm as it rotates (when throttle is applied). On cars that have sat around for a long time, dirt & oil will often build up around the perimeter of the piston & cause it to seize in place in its bore. It just needs to be freed up, cleaned & lightly lubed to work correctly.

Remove the carb & fuel splash tray/heat shield from the intake manifold. Stuff a rag into the throat of the intake manifold to prevent anything from falling or being dropped into it. Spray some PB Blaster, Kroil, carb cleaner, WD-40 or something similar around the base of the piston where it fits into the manifold to help loosen things up. Use some Vise-Grip pliers to grab the sides of the piston & slowly twist it side-to-side in order to work it free. Use a thick towel or cloth between the piston & the jaws of the Vise-Grips to prevent any damage to the sides of the piston. Alternating between spraying & twisting can help things go smoother. As the piston begins to loosen in the bore, pull upward on the pliers while also twisting at the same time. The piston should eventually pop free of the manifold, & you'll find the spring underneath it. Thoroughly clean the piston & spring, as well as the inside of the manifold port where the piston goes. Reassemble & enjoy.

 

[Jeff Stich]

Hi Marshall.
That is a vacuum valve that's part of the useless emissions control system.

2. I removed all the vacuum fittings from the manifold and plugged holes with set screws and locktite. A John Edwards youtube trick. You could try rubber caps instead but I like the cleaner look.

A '68 (817) manifold & 30DIC carb don't have all of the extra emissions hose ports/fittings that your '70-on (903) manifold & 30DICA carb do. Just the main plunger valve on the front of the primary side (which is where 850EV's problem lies).

 

[dnudelman]

All those vacuum lines, the emission control, garbage and the 30 DIC are gone. I am a happy boy. I am steeling myself for the points deduction at Pebble Beach.

 

[dnudelman]

So what happened to the Blue Spider? Did you sell it?

 

[GarageTimeTV]

So what happened to the Blue Spider? Did you sell it?

I still have it, and it’s still for sale. Everything works, down to the cigarette lighter!