It seems to be where it it is in the manual: at the base of the carb, center, screwed in. But whether it’s functioning normally, that’s a test I’ve yet to do. But couple with what appears to be a new, faulty alternator/charging system, there’s no way I’m going very far if the fan stays on for mor than a few minutes - the battery just isn’t getting charged high enough…It's possible that the W-D mechanics may not have entirely understood the car fan functions and consequently may not have installed the carb fan's temp switch in the correct location.
You should probably ask someone with a '74, or perhaps any year with a stock carb fan setup, to post a pic of where their carb fan temp switch is mounted. I'm guessing it's been mounted somewhere where it has no trouble getting hot but not where it can get cooled by the fan. Since the purpose of the fan system is to cool the carb, I would think the stock location for the temp switch would be within inches of the carb.
if it's mounted as in the pic that NEG posted, that blows my theory to smithereens! LOLIt seems to be where it it is in the manual: at the base of the carb, center, screwed in. But whether it’s functioning normally, that’s a test I’ve yet to do. But couple with what appears to be a new, faulty alternator/charging system, there’s no way I’m going very far if the fan stays on for mor than a few minutes - the battery just isn’t getting charged high enough…
"and the hot lead to the stud on the back of the alternator with a big wire going to the starter" - so my hot (red) meter hooks to this connection, leading to the starter. Simple enough. In a perfect world, what should I be seeing, voltage-wise, if this connection is functioning correctly?The open circuit voltage of a 100% charged lead acid battery is typically in the 12.9 - 13.2 range so the voltage is about right. You can check the battery condition with a hydrometer. They are under $10 at most auto stores. Charge it first.
Your multimeter should be fine for checking the alternator. Just put it on the correct DC voltage range, connect the ground lead to chassis ground, and the hot lead to the stud on the back of the alternator with a big wire going to the starter. Some alternators have a removable plastic cap on the terminal to help keep it from getting shorted when you drop a wrench down there. Remember, the other end is connected to the battery so power is there even with the engine off. It would be best to use some clip leads so you don't have to keep your hand in there with the engine running.
With the engine not running...you should see same voltage as at the battery.....about 12.5 v or so"and the hot lead to the stud on the back of the alternator with a big wire going to the starter" - so my hot (red) meter hooks to this connection, leading to the starter. Simple enough. In a perfect world, what should I be seeing, voltage-wise, if this connection is functioning correctly?
With the alternator, as opposed to the voltage regulator or wiring?With the engine not running...you should see same voltage as at the battery.....about 12.5 v or so
With the engine running at 2500 rpm or so....you should see 13.5 to 14.3 v or so
If not...something is wrong..........
Well...that depends on what type alternator you have now. didn't you just change it or something ??With the alternator, as opposed to the voltage regulator or wiring?
Yes, had a 61amp Bosch with internal regulator put inWell...that depends on what type alternator you have now. didn't you just change it or something ??
whatever....just do that test and report back....
Aha.....well then.....the wiring is very simple then.Yes, had a 61amp Bosch with internal regulator put in
And here's the result:Aha.....well then.....the wiring is very simple then.
Stock on your '74 would have been an alternator with an EXTERNAL voltage regulator that was mounted on the firewall. So...converting to an internally-regulated alternator would have required some wiring changes done properly......
On your new alternator....there should be a little wire going to it - likely to a spade terminal - coming directly from the warning light on the dash. And a big fat wire from the big post on the alternator - usually a stud with nut - to the starter That is all there is to it !!!
Surely...a new alternator would have been tested at the factory...so likely not at fault here. So..either the fat wire to the starter is no good....or that little wire is not correct...
Perform that test I said above...we'll go from there........
Okay good...now we are getting somewhere. But it is clear that your battery is NOT getting charged from the alternator like it should !!And here's the result:
Battery before test: 12.37v Okay that is good
Battery with negative meter to bare metal frame and positive to BIG stud: 12.37 Okay that is good
Battery reading with engine started: 3k rpm: 12.09v 1k rpm: 12.06v Are those readings at battery ? Or at big alternator stud ? You need those readings at the big alternator stud
And, now the 'G' light has gone dark - although the car starts and runs fine - possible blown bulb from short while doing test? See below
But if that's the case, if the bulb was blown, wouldn't the car be unstartable? No...car would still start...
regardless - these readings are not promising....
thoughts?
PS: this is a rebuilt alternator, not a new one from the factory
Did you see in my post where I said the 'G' light has now disappeared altogether, whether the engine is running or not? No G light at all - black, dead, nada. The rift of life.....Hey...a pic of the back of your new alternator all hooked up might be helpful here for us...
But in any case......i'm starting to think that little wire on the back of the alternator is not hooked up correctly. But easy to check....assuming the G light comes on when the ignition switch is in the "on" position - and car not running - then simply....with key still to "on" position.....pull off that little wire on back on alternator.....then light should go off. The push it back on and light should go on again. Try that.......
So black (negative) goes to the alternator case then?How is your ground strap? It might be interesting to measure the voltage between the alternator output stud and the alternator case with the engine running. If that voltage is different than what you measured against chassis ground, there may be too much resistance between the engine and the chassis.
YesSo black (negative) goes to the alternator case then?
Well.....testing with a meter would not have blown that bulb. But yes.....that bulb should be working as indicated...on when key is in run position but car is not running....and should go off when car is running...Did you see in my post where I said the 'G' light has now disappeared altogether, whether the engine is running or not? No G light at all - black, dead, nada. The rift of life.....
That’s an old photo on the day I got the car!your accelerator pump is leaking....