Coolant Pipe Rework Surprise! Pipe Maker?

Paul I was thinking of Fusor and rivits also. What kind of click-it panel holders?
I can't visualize how a panel holder would mount flat to flat surfaces.
 
PaulD said:
I put mine back on with pop rivets and panel epoxy, avoiding the heat issues.
Click to expand...
This might be a time saver. If you don't worry about trying to "open" the tack welds, but just drill right through them and the floor with a regular bit, then use rivets the same size as the holes you drilled. Much less hassle. Maybe use stainless steel rivets if possible. The modern two-part panel adhesives are extremely strong, and available in various "setting rates" to allow enough time to reassemble it. However you'll never get it open again in the future, so be sure to do the pipe job right the first time.
 
I’d trust Lord Fusor epoxies for this. They are structural adhesives. Rivets would be used to pull panels together whilst it sets, after that they have no impact on integrity of bond. I wouldn’t trust rivets alone to secure that, for sure. Only catch is metal has to be bare & free of any debris, etc. all that undercoat needs to be washed off and all paint removed. Kerosene would probably remove much of it.
 
Day 2 - Drilling out 46 more welds. She gave me a good fight but I won! And I haven't needed to lift weights in the gym either day I did this. Fun work!

I think the workers at Fiat welded the drivers side after lunch and vino because the welds were all over the place on this side!

Almost There.jpg
Tunnel Removed.jpg
Box Inside.jpg
Inside Front.jpg
Inside Rear.jpg


After seeing these I'm not so sure copper pipes are the best idea, seems like they have a disease. I'll sleep better with all stainless steel.

Next step I'll take a wheel to the surfaces plus solvent then add another strip of metal over the lips with Fusor because the swiss cheese holes bother me.

Also I'll figure out dimension changes for the heater pipes so I can run both in the tunnel box on top of each other. Then send off to Brown & Miller for fab.

Thanks everyone for all the useful input so far.
 
That disease is called galvanic corrosion. Basically anytime two dissimilar metals are in contact with each other small electrical currents exist. I must be getting old cuz I can't remember the reason (chemistry class was a lot of years ago), it has to do with molecular interaction. Anyway those tiny currents promote corrosion.

SS and mild steel should be OK, it's copper and steel (I believe aluminum has this property too, but not as bad). Looks like a big project!
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I think he is referring to "Clico fasteners".
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Correct! Brain fade. They are fantastic tools for any type of riveting, they keep every hole aligned while you are drilling the parts. Check Aircraft Spruce to see them.

Paul
 
Today I was able to remove the hoses at the heater box.

Hmm I wonder which pipe could have been suspect?

Heater Pipes from Heater.jpg

Seems like the bracket and pipe might have had a bit of galvanic corrosion going on here too (?) as the rust started right at the bracket.

Then I cut the bracket and the end of the pipe off.

Heater Pipes After Cut.jpg


Will likely cut off more of the rusty pipe but wanted to get a new hose first to make sure I had plenty of room to double clamp it as the flange is now gone.

Dimension drawing for the 2nd Heater pipe (which will go into the tunnel box just above the 1st and an inch shorter horizontally and vertically at the front) sent to Brown & Miller to program in.
 
RZSR X said:
Today I was able to remove the hoses at the heater box.

Hmm I wonder which pipe could have been suspect?

View attachment 7771
Seems like the bracket and pipe might have had a bit of galvanic corrosion going on here too (?) as the rust started right at the bracket.

Then I cut the bracket and the end of the pipe off.

View attachment 7772

Will likely cut off more of the rusty pipe but wanted to get a new hose first to make sure I had plenty of room to double clamp it as the flange is now gone.

Dimension drawing for the 2nd Heater pipe (which will go into the tunnel box just above the 1st and an inch shorter horizontally and vertically at the front) sent to Brown & Miller to program in.
Click to expand...

Ya know that rusty pipe is just an extension bolted to the heater core, can be had from our vendors:
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat...tube-pipe-non-ac-fiat-bertone-x19-all-oe.aspx

And you'll need the special gasket/o-ring, too:
http://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat...e-gasket-fiat-124-x19-128-850-lancia-new.aspx
 
Nice, I buy every car part new or vintage I can but didn't even think about that!

Thanks Dan!
 
Ok how about the interior heater hoses? Can't find them anywhere so when replacing do I just use same diameter auto hose and let it bend as it will?

Heater Pipes Interior.jpg
 
I don't know about anyone else's X, but the original hoses that came on my '86 X seemed to be in excellent condition when I got it in 2007, especially considering that the car was 22 years old at the time and is now 32 years old. As a matter of course and not due to apparent condition I replaced the large diameter cooling system hoses and some of the smaller diameter hoses, but the ones to and from the heater (except the return hose from the undercar heater pipe to the rear of the engine) are originals and at last inspection looked just fine.

If I were contemplating replacing them, I would see if I could find the proper Euro inside diameter hoses to replace, rather than going with pretty-close-but-not-exactly 1/2", 5/8", or 3/4" heater hose as the case may be. IIRC, for example the hose coming off the cyl head fitting and going forward to the supply the hot side of the heater is a metric size larger than 5/8" but smaller than 3/4".
 
This forum continues to amaze me. The knowledge amassed by the forum members is amazing. I can't imagine trying to restore an X before the internet, must have been a lot of trial and error back then.

In the past on other classic car forums I never wanted to ask to many questions for fear of being ridiculed. But on Xweb I find everyone genuinely wants to help! Must be the love for the misunderstood little Italian car.

That said I will be heading to NAPA parts for hose #11211 as seen in Charlie's pic below.

Thanks

Napa 11211 Heater Hose.jpg
 
Yeah, somehow i remembered Charlie's post from way back. Thought it might help.

If you have trouble finding that Napa hose, a couple of internet sources suggest that it crosses to Gates # 19211.

And yes Dan, when I saw Charlie's post, I had the same concern as you. Read that whole thread. And see Charlie's response to my concern. Good enough for me......
 
Thanks for bringing that reference back up, good info.

Just to add a little more info about those heater hoses. The ones that connect to the heater box (as in the above posts) are different for a factory AC car than they are for a non-AC car. Not that this pertains in the current case, but that question went unanswered in the referenced post so I thought I'd include it here. Although I'm sure if you own a AC car you will see the difference.
 
NAPA Auto still carries the heater hose 11211, just had to order it saying it only takes a day.
 
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