Coolant schematic with Tipo cylinder head

andreav

True Classic
Hello guys, I tried to find on forum and on Google but without big success and maybe better way to get info from first hand...
I want to ask about coolant / water connection for 128 or X1/9 when is used Tipo cylinder head, mean new type of head who dont have water outlet on right side and use 2 bolt type thermostat?

I know that someone use thermostat adater to bolt on back original X1/9 thermostat, is there other way that can be used Tipo thermostat?
 
I believe it was member SteveC ("fiatfactory") that has adapted the X1/9 style T-stat housing to the Typo head. Maybe others has as well. There were some pictures in a older thread with it (not sure if the pics survived the photobucket death). The way I remember it, making an adapter to go between the head and T-stat housing was the only practical approach, and not difficult to make.
 
Hello guys, I tried to find on forum and on Google but without big success and maybe better way to get info from first hand...
I want to ask about coolant / water connection for 128 or X1/9 when is used Tipo cylinder head, mean new type of head who dont have water outlet on right side and use 2 bolt type thermostat?

I know that someone use thermostat adater to bolt on back original X1/9 thermostat, is there other way that can be used Tipo thermostat?

This was discussed here awhile back,
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index....-1-6-with-valves-39-5-33-5.35139/#post-304379
 
Heater hose is connected now on thermostat adapter instead on cylinder head?

Can you someone upload photo of x1/9 water pipe what goes out of pump body, that I see how many connections and positon have for water hoses?
 
As Jim says, different arrangements were used over the years. I am not familiar with the reasons for the changes, but some had a heater tap on the water pump, some on the T-stat housing, some on various places along the "cooling return tube" between the T-stat and pump, and some on the head. I doubt there is any real significant difference between them, so any arrangement could be used if you have a situation where one will work better than another for you. I suppose you could even end up with either more than two heater connections, or none at all, depending on the components you choose.

Because I will be using one of the existing heater taps (on the head) to supply the cooling for the turbo, and I will be experimenting with a different set up for the cooling pipes under the car (to the radiator), the taps for the heater will now come from elsewhere. That means I do not need the second heater tap that was on the cooling return tube, so I am replacing that tube with one from a earlier X that did not have any taps on it. That avoids having to close off the extra tap.

You will also see on some cooling return tubes there are additional taps (usually smaller size) for other uses, like to the intake manifold, or to cool the EGR system on some SMOG compliant models. So it looks like a tree branch with lots of little branches on it.
 
Adaptor for t/stat and for branch pipe

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I added a outlet to the front of the head to hatch the X1/9 style, to keep attachments as standard as possible. Can’t find pic right now

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Huss, please remind me. Was the spacer under the branch/return pipe just to compensate for the longer distance to the adapted T-stat housing? Or did the pipe need to be adapted for another reason there, in addition to the T-stat housing?
 
Huss, please remind me. Was the spacer under the branch/return pipe just to compensate for the longer distance to the adapted T-stat housing? Or did the pipe need to be adapted for another reason there, in addition to the T-stat housing?

It was just so the elbow hose would fit without sourcing an alternative or stretching it uncomfortably. I revised the pipe later to include a hard pipe branch for the heater return.

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Thanks, thought that was the case. Also I wanted to clarify the situation for Andreav as he looks into adapting a Tipo head.
 
Thank you guys on many photos and explanation from first hands, this really help a lot. Now to conclude I need metal pipe from pump to thermostat with 2 outlets ( one close to pump and another close to thermostat )?
Just few photos and types of pipes, can be also pump housing used instead outlet on metal pipe?
 

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Okay thermostat adapter is must will made drawing and made batch of 10 pcs if needed in future work, Zastava designed for mass production adater for thermostat from 3 to 2 bolt adapter but think they never made different from 2 on 3 :-(
 
I am not sure exactly which models or years had the pipes with two outlets. The positions of the outlets can also be different for various ones, so it may take some researching to identify the best one for your needs.

And yes, you could use one of the water pump housings with one outlet, then a pipe with one. But keep in mind, some outlets are the "hot" side, and some the "cold" side (supply to the heater and return from the heater). So depending on what you want to use them for you might need to find a different arrangement. For example, it would not work as well to use two "cold" outlets (say both on the pipe) for the heater; that would just be circulating the water through the same part of the cooling system and not offer as much heat. Hope that made sense.
 
The 74 - 78 cars had the heater return on the water pump. That fitting dumps directly into the same spot that the long coolant return pipe does. I used the early style pump and heater return pipe (no extra fittings) to avoid the heater return hose from hitting the headers. I also found that you can take the later style water pump housing and drill/tap for the pump mounted heater return. However, the heater return fitting that bolts on the pump can be a little difficult to find, especially the 74 which has no barb for the water choke return.
 
Keep in mind when relocating the water taps, that to get any flow through the heater, there needs to a pressure differential between the two taps.
Ideally, you would place them as close as possible before and after the pump.
 
Keep in mind when relocating the water taps, that to get any flow through the heater, there needs to a pressure differential between the two taps.
Ideally, you would place them as close as possible before and after the pump.
Thanks Ulix, that was what I was trying (unsuccessfully) to say about 'hot' and 'cold' sides.
 
However, the heater return fitting that bolts on the pump can be a little difficult to find
Don, I imagine any hose barb could added. Considering you are drilling/tapping the new hole, you can make it any thread and size to suit whatever type of barbs are readily available (so long as they match the hose size).
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Even a "-AN" fitting to use stainless steel braided hose:
aeroquip-an-to-npt-adapter-fittings-423.jpg
 
That is what I thought initially but there is not enough material to tap the water passage, only the bolt holes. Therefore, you need to flange mount it.
 
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