coolant tube replacement begins.

autox19

autox19

True Classic
So this morning I begin my coolant tube replacement. After reading as many threads as I could I decided on the 1.25 stainless straight pipes with the stock fiat ends clamped on. My reasoning was as follows:
method 1: 1" copper pipes using the stock as sleeves. This went down the bung hole as I already am having cooling issues and although 1/4 inch doesnt seem like much, in the volume it can carry it is substantial (16 gpm vs 25 gpm at low pressure)

Method 2: 1.25 copper pipes to replace the current pipes. This one was close, but there was a thread that mentioned that if you bump a copper pipe, it could break, where stainless will dent, it will restrict flow, but not empty the coolant.

Method 3: buy the new replacements. if I didnt have 2 girls starting college next year adding to the 2 kids already in college, I would go this route. but they are so I cant.

so brings me to the next controversy. the tunnel/pan/guard etc... whilst I am not one to know if it is truly structural, this is my plan. I loath the thought of drilling out the spot welds. so I am going to cut off the bottom part of the tray (method not determined yet, die grinder, some reciprocating saw, oscillating saw, sheet metal shears) then replace the pipes with 1.25 stainless that will stick out the ends about 3" (i have a 8'4" pipe already and the tray is 47" long) then use hose and hose clamps to attach the old curved piping to them. After that I am recovering the tray with new metal, bent in a similar shape. If the cover has structural integrity, then this will be re-added. My buddy even suggested adding a separate small square tubing along side.

now I am off to drain the coolant and figure out which way to cut the tray.

Odie
 
Loved the video, much grunting makes it super real! A buddy of mine cut just one length wise cut, pulled down on it to open the box, replaced the tubes, pushed the cover back up and rewelded the cut, not a continuous cut, just spaced welds. I cut the bottom off but never replaced it as I'm of the "non-structural member" school (please no comments one way or the other on this). I would have been really pissed if I had welded the cover back on and then found out the metal heater tube in the box was rusted through....and then later totally removed the replacement heater tube when I decided to chuck the whole heater system (for now). Waiting for the next video showing the cutting of the box...will this be like the Project Binky you tube series?
 
carl said:
Loved the video, much grunting makes it super real! A buddy of mine cut just one length wise cut, pulled down on it to open the box, replaced the tubes, pushed the cover back up and rewelded the cut, not a continuous cut, just spaced welds. I cut the bottom off but never replaced it as I'm of the "non-structural member" school (please no comments one way or the other on this). I would have been really pissed if I had welded the cover back on and then found out the metal heater tube in the box was rusted through....and then later totally removed the replacement heater tube when I decided to chuck the whole heater system (for now). Waiting for the next video showing the cutting of the box...will this be like the Project Binky you tube series?
Click to expand...
what did you use to cut it? would you do use the same again or try something different now that you have done it? and yes, the heater tube will also be replaced

Odie
 
autox19 said:
So this morning I begin my coolant tube replacement. After reading as many threads as I could I decided on the 1.25 stainless straight pipes with the stock fiat ends clamped on. My reasoning was as follows:
method 1: 1" copper pipes using the stock as sleeves. This went down the bung hole as I already am having cooling issues and although 1/4 inch doesnt seem like much, in the volume it can carry it is substantial (16 gpm vs 25 gpm at low pressure)

Method 2: 1.25 copper pipes to replace the current pipes. This one was close, but there was a thread that mentioned that if you bump a copper pipe, it could break, where stainless will dent, it will restrict flow, but not empty the coolant.

Method 3: buy the new replacements. if I didnt have 2 girls starting college next year adding to the 2 kids already in college, I would go this route. but they are so I cant.

so brings me to the next controversy. the tunnel/pan/guard etc... whilst I am not one to know if it is truly structural, this is my plan. I loath the thought of drilling out the spot welds. so I am going to cut off the bottom part of the tray (method not determined yet, die grinder, some reciprocating saw, oscillating saw, sheet metal shears) then replace the pipes with 1.25 stainless that will stick out the ends about 3" (i have a 8'4" pipe already and the tray is 47" long) then use hose and hose clamps to attach the old curved piping to them. After that I am recovering the tray with new metal, bent in a similar shape. If the cover has structural integrity, then this will be re-added. My buddy even suggested adding a separate small square tubing along side.

now I am off to drain the coolant and figure out which way to cut the tray.

Odie
Click to expand...
I hear ya -
 
I just used an angle grinder with cut off wheel, each cut took less than a minute or two. No need to worry about cutting the pipes since you are replacing them anyway.

Another issue is retaining the pipes in place. There are light metal loops that touch the top of the pipes and packing material that goes between the bottom of the pipes an the bottom of the box. After weeks of thought on the matter I ended up using safety wire (ex road racers love to play with safety wire) to hold the pipes up against the upper supports. I can take some pics if anyone wants to see this.
 
"then use hose and hose clamps toattach the old curved piping to them."

This is the part that would bother me. Seems you are introducing additional potential failure poInts. Can't you get longer hoses that will attach to the SS pipe directly? It's not a Fiat motor by the look of it (missed the transplant details somewhere)
 
honda b16. Yes I could get longer hoses. My reasoning (be it right or wrong) is I find the universal flexible hoses to not flow as well and have more airpocket issues, having the ribs to keep it from collapsing. Yes there are more points of failure, but I dont know how much risk this is really adding. I personally, have never had a hose blow off the end of a pipe. I have had friends that have, but that usually pointed to a bigger issue all together. My hopes, is to have the real, proper full pipes next spring. (already in the budget). If I find the multiple connections are an issue, I will certainly try the longer single hose route.

Odie
 
autox19 said:
if I didnt have 2 girls starting college next year adding to the 2 kids already in college, I would go this route. but they are so I cant.
Click to expand...

Odie:

Let me 'splain something to you about timing.....

Oh, wait....

<-- the guy with 10, 11, 12, 20, and 20 year olds in the house. 2 in community college on college transfer program, and 3 that will be in college the year I can retire.....

Dang.
 
I'm out of this game, I only have four kids, now all grown up, out of college and 3/4 married. Paying for college and weddings will definitely keep you in the used parts, hand outs spectrum of car hobbying. The thought of paying thousands for a paint job was right up there with buying a new Porsche.
 
I'm pretty sure if you cut the bends off the tubes, you can just pull them straight out without opening up the tunnel. I think I came to this realization after cutting the tunnel open...

I went with 1-1/4" copper and soldered the bends back on with a sleeve. Replaced the two heater tubes with 1/2" copper too.
 
Ricardo, yes I have read that awesome write up MANY MANY MANY times. debated it as well, but I cant solder to save my life.
Mark, I will try that first! did the just slip out? did you have to knock them out? are there seals on the ends I have to break free?

Odie
 
autox19 said:
Mark, I will try that first! did the just slip out? did you have to knock them out? are there seals on the ends I have to break free?
Odie
Click to expand...

As I recall, if you cut the ends off at the back of the car, they will simply pull out from the front. A little twisting action was all it took. No seals.
 
Got bothe ends cut. Tried pulling them out. Nada. Used a dead blow hammer. Nada. Went with the grinder with a cutting wheel. Found out laying on my back I cannot cut straight. Opened it up and still had to pry a bit to get them out. Need a little more pipe. They said it was 9 foot. It was only 100 inches.

Odie
 
Check the top of the heater pipe with your fingers as mine had rusted through at the top, the bottom looked fine.
 
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