Crank end play question?? Hoping for quick reply

CnC79X19

True Classic
Hoping someone online I can answer this quickly. Can I check the crank/thrust washer end play with my dial gauge with rods with the connecting rods installed or do I have to remove them to get a true reading? Just trying to save work for them since they are already torqued to spec.
 
use a couple of long levers between the block webbing and the crank counterweights, you'll overcome the sideways friction of the rods etc.. and the crank will move.

SteveC
 
Sorry Thanks for the reply Steve. Can you explain that one more time for me using preschool terms for a very novice guy?
 
20190601_105159_HDR.jpg

The stress of contact point issues are over too. The thrust washers ride much farther back on the cap. Only damage was done by the crank too so now as long as the washers are in spec we're good to go.
 
lol.

well a couple of big screwdrivers (I sort of assumed the sump was off and engine on a stand) wedged either side of the block webbing and also against one of the crank counterweights each... push one all the way back... zero the dial gauge... push the other all the way forward... total end play is indicated on the dial gauge.

SteveC
 
Cliff, in this case "sump" was referring to the oil pan. In the picture you last posted it is off, so you can do it like Steve suggested.
Sorry this is not the best picture to illustrate, but it should get the job done:
SBF PCV valve.jpg


By putting the long screwdriver on either side of those two arrows (one side at a time), you will be able to push the crank in each direction (toward the flywheel and toward the front pulley). That will show the amount of play possible. As Steve said, when you have it all the way in one direction you can "zero" the dial gauge. Then when you move it the other way the gauge will read the play.
 
Awesome, thanks Doc. Wish us luck. Posted that washer/cap image on another post. Hadn't realized you were in the forum because I'm in the garage on my phone which doesn't indicate who's viewing.
 
The thrust washers ride much farther back on the cap.
Just for my own benefit, do you mean the groove that was worn into the cap (damage) is much shallower than the thickness of the washer?

Regarding the factory style of thrust washer. Looking at the picture Steve posted, the "square" ends may offer a little more security for the cap to retain the washer...considering the damage to the cap?
20190601_105159_HDR.jpg
20190601_230034.jpg


But I do not know. Hopefully Steve can add to this.
 
I just answered my own question after seeing your other post (in the related thread). You mean these two points (arrows below) are far enough apart that the damage to the cap won't matter. I agree.
20190601_105159_HDR (1).jpg


With that in mind, the shape of the ends of the two washers (Fiat and non-Fiat) should not make the difference I was thinking. I do not know if there are any other benefits to either one or not.
 
That might be to tight, there needs to be space for the oil to get in. Isn't the minimum spec .0019" you're at 1/4 of that which may oil starve the bearing and cause a failure.
 
That is too tight. You definitely need clearance so the oil can get in there and do it's job.

.0021 to .0104 thou (0.055 to 0.265 mm) is the specification, you are well under the minimum.

I said to aim for the minimum, use one oversize (+5 thou) and one standard washer, then measure. If clearance was too tight then carefully face the back of the thrust washer on a sheet of glass / sandpaper and take maybe 1/2 a thou off the back of each thrust washer, that should get you in spec.

SteveC
 
Ok, so if this looks ok then I think we're finally there. Someone pipe in and stop me before I waste another new oil pan gasket. Installed the new set of 0.051 oversize thrust washers with oil cut outs facing out towards counterweight and flange that ChrisO sent us (first set we tried) and torqued the cap to 59ft lbs. Using a decent dial gauge from the machine shop my son works at on the crank end, we zeroed it after applying pressure in one direction and then applied pressure the opposite way and got a total reading of 3 thousands of an inch? Are we good to use this new oil pan gasket and call it a day? I would love to put this to rest
 
20190620_195406.jpg
20190620_195406.jpg
Ok, so if this looks ok then I think we're finally there. Someone pipe in and stop me before I waste another new oil pan gasket. Installed the new set of 0.051 oversize thrust washers with oil cut outs facing out towards counterweight and flange that ChrisO sent us (first set we tried) and torqued the cap to 59ft lbs. Using a decent dial gauge from the machine shop my son works at on the crank end, we zeroed it after applying pressure in one direction and then applied pressure the opposite way and got a total reading of 3 thousands of an inch? Are we good to use this new oil pan gasket and call it a day? I would love to put this to rest
 
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