Dallara detailed build info and specs

Thanks for all your replies. The Dallara style head from CF Motori looks really interesting but may be too costly. The more I think about it, going for the SOHC is the most interesting way to keep it close to the original. -With or without a 16 valve head. -With or without turbo. I have lots of power in my street X so I probably wouldn't be happy with less power in a race Dallara. The cheapest way to obtain power is going turbo so another crazy idea popped up:
I have a 1500 in spare so why not stroke it to 1600 and turbo it? Not a mild turbo setup like @Dr.Jeff is working on, I want 300hp from it. It has been discussed that the 138 "siamese" block is weak, and cannot handle the heat, lubrication etc. but if Graversen managed to get 370hp from a stroked 1300 I think it is doable. The design of the 1500 is very like the Uno Turbo in many ways so it is probably much tougher than most people think. But crank, conrods, and pistons must be upgraded of course. I will have lots of time to plan and think about the engine until time comes.

Got some tips and ideas on FB (thanks Julian Brown if you are a member here) for framing and tubing. The pics show a very robust cage, probably much safer than an original Dallara, and some parts of it are probably necessary to meet modern regulations. But the build (from UK) has no front suspension framing due to national regulations. However, this is allowed in Sweden even on a street legal car so a Dallara front suspension pic would be interesting to study.
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As you know....

I believe one difference between the SOHC 1500 block and the UT block is the spacing of the cylinders (better spaced apart on the UT). Obviously another is the bore diameters, and that gets even worse on the 1500 block when you bore for a 1600 displacement (thinner walls). Therefore the UT block is stronger and more resistant to high thermal failures.

However I think the 1500 block can work if you build a really good cooling system; e.g. electric water pump, large radiator with huge fans, managed by a module to allow closer thermal control and after-run cooling, ported cooling passages, etc. And a good oiling system; e.g. large oil cooler, high volume pump (which doesn't exist but we've discussed a potential way to help by modifying the bypass valve), ported oil galleys, etc. As you say it will need upgraded turbo spec internals; SS valves, custom pistons, forged rods and crank, MLS gasket, aftermarket studs throughout, etc. At that point you should be able to feed higher boost levels without mechanical failure. Although it will still need considerable flow improvement in the head to reduce flow resistance (which leads to exponential thermal increases); major porting, turbo spec cam, etc. A huge intercooler with help with internal thermal management, but a very well tuned ECU and supporting components (fuel and ignition) is also mandatory.

It is certainly doable with the right budget. That was my limitation and why I chose to go with a conservative low boost setup. But I admit the thought to go big is very tempting. :D
 
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Fiat_X1_9_Dallara.jpg

This image could be the same blue car.
Building the chassis would be very rewarding even if it had the sohc engine.
Is 1700 lbs total weight possible?
Kent
 
I get the impression that other than the very basic body structure the Dallara is a totally different car than a stock X.
 
I believe one difference between the SOHC 1500 block and the UT block is the spacing of the cylinders (better spaced apart on the UT).

Hi Jeff,
where did you find this info?
I always assumed the bore spacing to be the same.
 
I find it amusing when guys "hide" cars they buy from the wife. With the amount of money you will be spending on this inspiring project I find it hard to believe your wife won't wonder why you won't be able to make a few mortgage payments on time!

Wife and I have no secret accounts and even the Amazon and paypal are in her name so when I paid for some seat components via paypal she was asking me about it fifteen minutes later (to be sure it wasn't a stolen identity thing).
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Hi Jeff,
where did you find this info?
I always assumed the bore spacing to be the same.
Hi Ulix,
I said "I believe"...meaning I wasn't sure. I'm just going off distant memory of prior discussions. I recall there was a block that is similar to the X's but better cylinder spacing, and thought it was the UT? However I also believe the smaller bores of the UT block offers greater material around the cylinders than the X's. And that will also provide more strength. Others here will know for sure. ;)
 
This is one of many good threads covering this matter:
 
What is planned budget and condition of chassis?
No budget set but I am expecting this build to be at the same level as my street X so maybe 15000 EUR. If going for a Dallara head. Colotti gearbox internals the budget will increase of course. I am in no hurry as the restoration of the 128 Sport Coupé will keep me busy for a year so I have lots of time for planning and finding parts. The Dallara kit was a bargain and also contained X1/9 parts that I can sell for a small profit.
I am currently searching for a cheap chassis, it can be rotten without doors, hood etc. It does not even have to include an engine. I've heard of a damaged chassis 200km away without an engine that might be ok for this project.
 
If I were going down this path the engine I would choose would be a reworked “modern” Fiat turbo engine using a 16v T-Jet as the basis as it avoids the complexities of the Multiair. This would also give you the later gearboxes as well.

Sounds like a great project.
 
Also, the 16v T-jet is twin cam with one drive pulley like the Dallara, except exhaust & inlet sides are switched.
 
If I were going down this path the engine I would choose would be a reworked “modern” Fiat turbo engine using a 16v T-Jet as the basis as it avoids the complexities of the Multiair. This would also give you the later gearboxes as well.
Also, the 16v T-jet is twin cam with one drive pulley like the Dallara, except exhaust & inlet sides are switched.
Yes, that might be a good idea. I think it is this 1.4l engine, seen it on a Norwegian X1/9 that used to race in Sweden. The guy stopped at 250hp to save the gearbox, but the engine has more to give he told me. It sits really good in the engine compartment:
InkedKrysset Växelöverföring_LI[3415].jpg
 
This image could be the same blue car.
Building the chassis would be very rewarding even if it had the sohc engine.
Is 1700 lbs total weight possible?
Kent

That's not the 'real" Dallara, if you mean the former "Jolly Club" Dallara - you can tell from the nose panel, and of course the 'hood"
 
Yes, Kugelfisher mechanical injection. Definitely "cult" and probably efficient as it is still in use in many configurations. But a modern EFI must be better and easier to control.

When I saw the pics originally, I thought it was a variant on K-Jet, but then I saw the fuel distributor is driven off the cam.
 
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