Did it this time...any ideas ?

Status
Not open for further replies.

User1

RETIRED Admin, pm OFF
<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Did it this time...any ideas ?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2001 at 4:52 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Subject : Rear control arms. Specific: Shimming. Background: Dropped the arms and ignored the shimming stack-up on each mounting point. Logic ? I figured that the stackup could be eyeballed in on reinstallation as to which shims where placed....but now that everything is much cleaner I've lost the telltale marks of mating surfaces. I also knew that the rubber spacer is subject to some wear and that shimming requirements would change as a result of that. I am also aware that this rubber spacer can wear and deteriorate and be replaced by a new spacer and that would also change the shimming requirements. As you probably all know there are delrin plastic type bushing/spacers that can be used as an option to the OEM rubber. Probably even go to a solid if you really wanted to tighten it up and make it rigid. So....I'm at the point of having to reinstall the control arms and shim them correctly to get the proper caster. Any ideas you'd care to share ?
Along the same lines I've heard there is a rod type technique of setting up proper toe-in. Heard the process mentioned elsewhere but nobody elaborated on the procedure. Checked the search function on this site and apparently we haven't been there yet. Thanks much. lezesig '79 X 1/9 ( with control arms that want to go up )<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Author[/FONT]</TD><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Reply[/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]scot[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->toe in via tramel<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2001, 8:07 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->cant help on the shim thing, looking foreward to any replies,sure to be educational. I set toe using a tramel bar I made, basicaly a large caliper, of steel tube with legs to hold it off the ground. I measure at the rim at the front side, then the rear at the same hight from ground, the diference is the toe.You should check that your wheels are true,if not you roll the car to measure at the same point on the rim,but 180deg. apart.(front and rear )A flat surface to work on is good.Good luck!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Scot<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2001, 6:42 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Sounds like a straightforward approach ! lezesig '79 X 1/9<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + "i";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "p";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "b";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "t"; document.write("Tony Natoli Santa Clarita CA"); // --> </SCRIPT>Tony Natoli Santa Clarita CA <NOSCRIPT></NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Uh - oh!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2001, 8:25 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->First of all... Could you spell your name PHONETICALLY?

I have had the damndest time trying to figure it out...

Lea - zy - sig??? Close?

Anyway... I almost did the same thing with my shims too. I did end up putting them back right but I'm not convinced they were right to start with.

With my next set of wheels and tires I will be taking the car in for a complete four wheel alignment at a specialty stop here in Newhall CA. If that's any possible help, I'll get his name and number for ya.

As to the toe-in alignment using a bar... or a stick or chalk or a measuring tape...

Philosophically it goes like this:

1. Most front ends should be slightly toed in with a difference of front to rear of usually 1/8 to 1/4 of and inch.

That is to say if you look at the LEFT FRONT wheel and superimpose a clockface... the distance from the 9:00 o'clock position to the same spot on the right front wheel should be 1/4 inch less than the distance from the 3:00 position... across to the other wheel.

Some folks lift the front end, chalk the tires by spinning them, and MEASURE the distance at the 9:00 position and also at the 3:00 position... or close to it.

Some folks use a spring loaded pole that is marked off in 1/8 inch increments... stick it between the two front tires at 9:00, then roll the car forward 1/2 revolution of the wheel... and the pole should have EXPANDED 2 increments, or 1/4 inch.

This can be done backwards also...

On the REAR of an X though... one would probably need to measure at 3:00 and then again at 7:00 or 8:00 for the front measurement... as I doubt that you can get a straight measurement across at 9:00. A difference between 3:00 and let's say, 4:00 might be a 1/8 of an inch and that could be used to guess-ta-mate the 9:00 measurement... at the 8:00 position.

2. I have used this method several times to get a rough alignment to drive the car to a PRO...

3. Most front wheel drives... by the way, require 1/8 inch toe-OUT!!!! You don't wanna know how I found that out... but let me add... 1/4 inch toe-IN on a front wheel drive is not only gonna wear your tires out in a month... its like being on ice in the slightest amount of water!

Good luck...



Tony

<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Tony<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2001, 9:04 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->So THAT'S the "rod technique"..a graduated sping loaded pole. Thanks for the explanation ! I also followed your rundown on the toe-setting process. Makes sense to me. Have to pass on the specialty shop lead. I'm here in the WET Pacific Northwest. You mentioned the next set of wheels and tires...still thinking of throwing a 15 by 7 to 8 inch rim ? What do you have under the hood a FIAT-FERRARI powerplant ? About the username... I haven't figured it out yet myself. lezesig '79 X 1/9<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Warren[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Shims<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 3 2001, 8:41 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I was worried about the position for the shims as well.
But, I read the PBS book on preping the X for battle and they didn't seem to care where the a arm was. It seemed that they ceneterd the a arm in the P/U points.
I have tried different thicknesses myself and found no difference. I think the only way to find out is to talk to an alighment shop and get thier opinion.
Maby someone else could shed some more light on this?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Warren<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2001, 6:50 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->That's what I was thinking also. The hardpoints were established in the Jigs at the Factory. The A's were also welded in jigs. I think we're shimming for excessive tolerance in the joint between the bushing and the keeper. The bushing can drift a few thou Left or Right in the boss when set. Hows the pan modification (for clearance) coming ? lezesig '79 X 1/9<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Steve Hoelscher[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Toe and Shims<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2001, 6:53 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->To shim the control arm: First install the arm without the shims and just stick the bolts through the holes. Check the postion of the arm in eash of the mounts by moving it front to rear. Identify where the largest gap occures and try to postion the control arm so that each of the bushings is as close to centered as possible. Note the size of the gaps by stacking some shims and sticking the edge of the stack between the bushing and the mount noting the number of shims that will fit there. Now drop the control arm again.

Next, clean the shims with a wire brush or sand paper, removing the rust, corrosion and road dirt. If necessary, use a hammer to make them flat again. Now re-install the control arm with the shims positioned as noted during test fitting. It is important that you install the bolts so that the threaded ends point toward each other and install the shims first on the side of the control arm bushing toward the head of the bolt. Do not push the bolt all the way through the mount. Now check the fit and movement of the control arm. It should have no front to back movement. Now fit as many shims as you can (without forcing) between the other side of the bushing and mount and push the bolts the rest of the way through the mounts. Now re-check the fit and movement of the control arm. Also check the fit of the shims (they should fit snug). Now install the nuts, raise the control arm to parallel to the ground and torque the nuts. You are done
happy.gif


I set toe, both front and rear, by using a piece of angle against each rear (or front) tire sitting atop a 2x4 laid on its side. Measure between each end of the angle (even with the leading and trailing edge of the tire), subtract the numbers and you have your toe measurement. To center the rear toe, measure to a center line from each of the pinch welds under the rock panels. Then measure from the angle to the center line. Adjust as necessary.

I have been doing my own alignments for years and have found I can do it far more accurately than the machines can.

Steve
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]lezesig[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks Steve<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 4 2001, 10:40 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Re: A-arms - Think I'll clean the shims prior to the fit check though, right ? One point that the manual does bring out is the requirement of a full torque only after the entire weight of the car is brought to bear. Sounds like you're doing a full torque on a free floating arm. Any comments ? I'm also inclined to tighten to full torque on a free floater. Re: Toe - Interesting...If I understand you correctly for the fronts then - you don't chalk a 180 degree on the tire but instead use fore/aft on the tire with the same distance from the ground ( via thickness of 2X4 ). If this is a true assesment then your numbers will be different than the shop manual numbers for toe-in. I assume the manual numbers are based on a 180 degree relationship...and your process is roughly 85 degrees. i.e. a delta of +/- .25 at 180 degrees, and a delta of +/- .10 at 85 degrees. hmmm you got me thinking on this one. Am I gonna have to crunch the numbers to find your magic number given the diameter of the tire now ? Great fun ! Wait a minute !!! I might have assesed it wrong. If you lay the 2X4 with 4 inches from ground level and use a 2 inch angle then you have roughly 6 inches total height. And THAT would put you close to the 180 degree relationship, right ? Couple of ways this could go here...either way would work. One way would be much easier though . Ha, ha, ha, ha ( the width of your angle is still an unknown ),...On the aft-rear end toe...sounds like finding and establishing centerline is the key. I've reread your description on establishing the centerline but I guess I'm going to have to crawl back under and view the pinch welds. They must be running [extremely] parallel to each other leftside and rightside and running fore to aft of the body. Without another peak at the chassis you lost me on that one ! Back under it. Out for now, lezesig '79 X 1/9<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Steve Hoelscher[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->More info<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 6 2001, 8:50 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->
Yes, clean the shims before starting. I use a wire wheel and a little sand paper, then hammer them flat with a ball peen hammer.

The manual says to torque the a-arms with the car sitting on the ground. Raising the A-arm to ride height does the same thing but provides for access with the torque wrench. Try getting to the front a-arm bolts under a lowered car with a torque wrench sometime. There will be some slight deformation of the bushing when the car sits on the suspension but it is not a problem.

I didn't make myself clear on toe measurements. The piece of angle I use is the same length as the OD of the tire. Therefore, I can center it next to the wheel and the measurement from each end will be the same as if measured from the tread, 180 degrees apart. You cannot use a tall piece of angle because the tape measure will foul the under side of the car, resulting in faulty measurements. The 2x4 is just tall enough and the angle, laid over the edge of the 2x4, has a mark scribed on it for reference. This is easiest if you have a helper to hold the 2x4 and angle on the other side of the car.

Steve

<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
closeThread.gif
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top