"Dog-bone" [engine torque strut] rebuild...updated with new content

Not sure what's readily available, but if there are the same type universal urethane "hat" bushings available with the same OD as the dogbone ID (not at the lip, but at the main cylinder body). Then you might cut a small groove in the bushings for the dogbone "lip" to fit into (next to the outer edge of the bush). Urethane is forgiving enough to squeeze past the lip until it seats into that new groove. Pretty much the same final outcome but precludes making the sleeve to resize the dogbone bore. And the lip in the groove will secure it in place. ;)
 
Not sure what's readily available, but if there are the same type universal urethane "hat" bushings available with the same OD as the dogbone ID (not at the lip, but at the main cylinder body). Then you might cut a small groove in the bushings for the dogbone "lip" to fit into (next to the outer edge of the bush). Urethane is forgiving enough to squeeze past the lip until it seats into that new groove. Pretty much the same final outcome but precludes making the sleeve to resize the dogbone bore. And the lip in the groove will secure it in place. ;)
That lip's nearly a 1/4".. That's a 1/2" overall smaller in diameter. I think it might be tough to get the bulk of the bushing in past the lip....
 
Good point. It's been a while since I've looked at one and was thinking the lip was much smaller than that. :)
Plus, you could use a thin plastic sheet rolled up or even cardboard instead of the machined nylon if you don't have access to a lathe. Really anything the right diameter would work as long as there's some release agent so that the cast resin doesn't stick to the temporary puck....
 
I also recall one person modified their dogbone in order to install different bushings. They cut the lips off so the end cylinders were straight bores. With the aftermarket urethane bushings having a decent lip on them (see pic below), I guess the dogbone really doesn't need its lips to hold things in place.
100_9889_1024x1024@2x.jpg

Someone else made a completely new dogbone using plain sleeves for the ends that matched readily available urethane bushings (dimensionally). And they made the center rod adjustable. The adjustment is nice to compensate for various things. Apparently I didn't save any pics of it...wish I had. Anyone remember who this was?

Another thought that others have mentioned on this topic is replacing one end with urethane and leaving the other end rubber. Usually only one end seems to wear out much faster, and this allows enough compliance for soaking up noise and vibration.
 
I also recall one person modified their dogbone in order to install different bushings. They cut the lips off so the end cylinders were straight bores. With the aftermarket urethane bushings having a decent lip on them (see pic below), I guess the dogbone really doesn't need its lips to hold things in place.
View attachment 54369
Someone else made a completely new dogbone using plain sleeves for the ends that matched readily available urethane bushings (dimensionally). And they made the center rod adjustable. The adjustment is nice to compensate for various things. Apparently I didn't save any pics of it...wish I had. Anyone remember who this was?

Another thought that others have mentioned on this topic is replacing one end with urethane and leaving the other end rubber. Usually only one end seems to wear out much faster, and this allows enough compliance for soaking up noise and vibration.
It would have to be the thin lip bushings, to the right. Otherwise it won't fit in the chassis/engine brackets.. Unless you cut off more the just the metal return lip... Plus, that metal is fairly thin, I think the return provides some stiffness..
 
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