Dog Bone mount options

carl said:
I believe there was a discussion about using 124 spider upper trailing arms and shortening them to fit
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That's right - I'd forgotten about that option. I don't recall anyone reporting feedback on doing it and how well it lasted?
 
lookforjoe said:
I probably should have clarified which torque mount I was referring to - the upper one (on models that used it on the left side of the motor) has a notorious failure rate. The one I meant is the larger part of the lower trans torque mount, such as this:

Volvo Engine Mount - Hutchinson 30680750

Volvo Engine Mount - Hutchinson 30680750
www.fcpeuro.com

I had to cut the aluminum housing to extract it. It only made sense becuse I had several used ones to cut up.

View attachment 34263
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If you get rid of the middle connection of the Volvo mount do the round parts fit an X1/9? Could you then connect the two ends with a couple of angle steel pieces?
 
carl said:
I believe there was a discussion about using 124 spider upper trailing arms and shortening them to fit.
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Looks legit. I might actually try this. I figure the trailing arm is exposed to more stress and work load over its life and might last a very long time.
 
Eastep said:
I figure the trailing arm is exposed to more stress and work load over its life and might last a very long time.
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And if I remember right (been a very long time since I had a 124), those Spider suspension bushings are solid rubber. Meaning they do not have the voids the X's dogbone bushes have. So even if the quality of the rubber is no better (although I agree, they should be more robust for a suspension part), the lack of voids will still improve its longevity.

I don't recall just how close of a fit they are or what's involved with installing them in a dogbone. So please document the process if you go that route. ;)
 
Weren't there two different 124 rear bush sizes? Can't recall if they were for different years or for different locations on the bars?
 
lookforjoe said:
Anyone confirmed the bush dimensions for fit in the body & head bracket? Prcie is decent for good/used from MWB

www.midwest-bayless.com

Trailing Arm - Upper Short (Fiat 124 Spider Coupe All 1967-78) - U8

Trailing Arm - Upper Short (Fiat 124 Spider Coupe All 1967-78) - U8
www.midwest-bayless.com www.midwest-bayless.com
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Are you thinking to use the entire 124 arm? I believe the prior discussions were about using only the rubber bushes from these arms, placing them into the old X's dogbone. Or is that what you mean? Because the rubber bushes are available separately new for not a lot of money.

Anyone know exactly which one is the best fit and have the part number?
 
IMG_1704[2].JPG

Obviously the trailing arms are longer. The trailing arm dowel is 48mm long, the dogbane dowel is 41mm long.


IMG_1702[3].JPG
IMG_1701[1].JPG

The trailing arm end will fit in the engine mounted bracket, you would just have to cut down the dowel and bushing to fit, not a hard job, really.
The bolt for the dog bog is an 8mm shank and the trailing arm uses a 31mm shank (bolts that typically take a 17mm wrench. I suppose you could sleeve the dowel or drill out the brackets for larger bolts, again something most of us could handle. You would obviously need a welder to shorten the trailing arm and I would want a sleeve to go over the joint to reinforce it.
 
carl, is the "tube" on the trailing arm a tube or a solid bar? Just curious as to the construction.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Are you thinking to use the entire 124 arm? I believe the prior discussions were about using only the rubber bushes from these arms, placing them into the old X's dogbone. Or is that what you mean? Because the rubber bushes are available separately new for not a lot of money.

Anyone know exactly which one is the best fit and have the part number?
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I don't need this, K24, remember :D Just curious for stock installs.
 
carl said:
View attachment 34288
Obviously the trailing arms are longer. The trailing arm dowel is 48mm long, the dogbane dowel is 41mm long.


View attachment 34289View attachment 34291
The trailing arm end will fit in the engine mounted bracket, you would just have to cut down the dowel and bushing to fit, not a hard job, really.
The bolt for the dog bog is an 8mm shank and the trailing arm uses a 31mm shank (bolts that typically take a 17mm wrench. I suppose you could sleeve the dowel or drill out the brackets for larger bolts, again something most of us could handle. You would obviously need a welder to shorten the trailing arm and I would want a sleeve to go over the joint to reinforce it.
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It looks like the sleeve would be really close to touching the bracket. Chopping down the bush back to the sleeve is going to change the deflection characteristics under load also. Doesn't look ideal, obviously it can be made to fit.
 
lookforjoe said:
It's more (IMO) about the vibration that is generated when this mount isn't right.
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Plus it's about the damn thing lasting more than a week without having to constantly replace it. The lack of torque is a true fact, but improving the service life and basic functionality are really the goal here. I guess the same argument can be made for improving the other mounts (lower trans and snail) as well. They don't NEED to be made better, but it sure would be nice if they WERE better. ;)
 
Another thought I've had is making a new dogbone using a pair of universal rubber (or urethane) rod end bushings. There are many styles to choose from, but something along these lines:
3756-1000x1000w.png
46824f51c3171c87eb4f9ac41efebf48.jpg


They are often used for custom suspension links and come in a wide selection of sizes. Cut a piece of tube the correct length and weld one of these bushings onto each end. I'm sure some modification/adaptation will be required to match the stock X's mounts correctly.

If you want to get fancy and make it adjustable then you could use the ones with threaded fittings.
91008001_L_0ba11131-af54-4303-8501-c19756617993.jpg
 
JimD said:
I wonder what the true dimensions are on this Nissan torque rod? It sure looks like there is some adjustment available. Maybe I will spend the $15 to find out if it even fits on an X. It is kinda ugly.
View attachment 34477
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OK, so I ordered the part from Amazon. Here is the part compared to a "stock" dogbone. This is actually a Vicks repro, but the dimensions are basically the same as stock.

The adjustable dog bone is slightly larger in all dimensions. The ends are about 2.5" in diameter where the stock is more like 2". The steel sleeves are also larger than stock, so that will need to be dealt with.
IMG_2063.JPG

If I line up the mounting holes at one end of the bones, you can see the adjustable is longer. And this is with the adjustable mount closed as far as possible. You can see the adjustable ends are narrower, so that needs to be dealt with.
IMG_2065.JPG

If I remove the two clamping bolts from the adjustable bone and slide the two peices together, I can line up the mounting holes at both ends with a stock dog bone. For my 85, I need it even slightly shorter, so I hope there is enough length to allow me to make the adjusting slots a little extra long.
IMG_2066.JPG

Of course, the two clamping bolts won't go back in. So that needs to be dealt with by elongating the adjusting slots and maybe trimming the end of the bar with the captive nuts.
IMG_2067.JPGIMG_2068.JPG

When I find time to mess with it, I will try to fit it onto one of my Xs. I am not sure how stiff it will actually be compared to stock, but it is intended to be a torque rod, so I am hopeful. Of course if the 2.5" head diameter is too large for the stock mount points, this will be a brief test. :)
 
What about width of bushing ends? Will they drop in to the brackets? From the top view, they look narrower - but I can see the bush sleeve protrudes on either side...
 
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