Electrical System Upgrade List

kmead said:
I believe it would behave in the standard OE way as the control signal is from the normal means of operation, meaning it uses the high beam low beam actuation from the existing harness to trigger the relays.

Do you mean to say you haven’t installed that kit yet? What are you waiting for?
Click to expand...
Lol. Since the original poster still isn’t responding to my questions (Mo.) I’m finding a lot of people think the wire quality supplied with them is sub-par, too thin, prone to fires. So I’m considering building my own with better cable. On the other hand, if just one Exxe user who’s actually installed and is using one replied, I’d feel more confident about not burning the car to the ground. And The whole xmas schedule thing too :) Merry Merry!
 
tvmaster said:
Lol. Since the original poster still isn’t responding to my questions (Mo.) I’m finding a lot of people think the wire quality supplied with them is sub-par, too thin, prone to fires. So I’m considering building my own with better cable. On the other hand, if just one Exxe user who’s actually installed and is using one replied, I’d feel more confident about not burning the car to the ground. And The whole xmas schedule thing too :) Merry Merry!
Click to expand...
I don’t think it would burn the car down. It is possible the wires are less than the gauge one might like but the runs are short so much less of an issue. Without the correct crimping tools it would be difficult to make an assembly of ones own. The headlight connectors are an unusual tool and can’t be crimped with a standard tool.

A number of us have the Bob Brown kit from years ago, likely not that many have made an upgrade using the more open line solutions.

The biggest issue with the Amazon kits is the main power wire to the relays, this is an easy modification and one we have spoken of at length.
 
yup on all accounts. I’d put a 12/10g wire from the relay to the fuse, as it needs about eight feet of modification, and I want all fuses near the battery with short wires
 
Last edited:
tvmaster said:
yup on all accounts. I’d put a 12/10g wire from the relay to the fuse, as it needs about eight feet of modification, and I want all fuses near the battery with short wires
Click to expand...
At times you are a good student :) You want 10g by the way…
 
I would consider making up another batch of Insertable Headlight harnesses, but it takes me a considerable amount of time to do and I've found that building up less than 10 pairs of these just isn't worth it for me. If I can get a commitment for at least 10 sets of these, I'll make it happen.
Price for these is $149 plus ship. They are made with marine grade wire and use a separate relay to each filament. (4 separate relays in a set)
 
Last edited:
On many of my x1/9's I have tied the low beam wires (just before the stalk) together so the low beams are alway's on, (I started doing this after I was out one night and the stalk burned out and I had no lights) (and I never removed the fix after replacing the stalk) It makes the high beams still light the road low and off to the sides much better)
 
tvmaster said:
Lol. Since the original poster still isn’t responding to my questions (Mo.) I’m finding a lot of people think the wire quality supplied with them is sub-par, too thin, prone to fires. So I’m considering building my own with better cable. On the other hand, if just one Exxe user who’s actually installed and is using one replied, I’d feel more confident about not burning the car to the ground. And The whole xmas schedule thing too :) Merry Merry!
Click to expand...
I bought a similar ebay kit and found the wires too delicate and thin. Whilst the voltage drop calculation over the small length may give sime mathematical comfort, leaving the thin gauge in the relay bank seemed to negate one of the purposes of the set-up so I followed the wiring routes and increased the gauge and conformed the wire colours. I am pleased I did. The extra work and cost was marginal really.

RDS
 
Superb response, thanks. Bunch of folks at Amazon were suggesting the same thing. Were any of the connectors difficult to swap wires in/out?
 
Last edited:
Fortunately these connectors are very basic and removing the terminals is not difficult. You can make a removal tool from a very small screwdriver or similar implement. All you need is something narrow enough to slip into the connector body and push the retaining tang back as you pull the wire back:
41FCLgOTMqL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top