Engine Bay Cooling Options

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

.....Found that the threads in the radiator are a bit stripped. Decided "screw it" im gonna throw a 1/8th inch schrader air valve on it and see if the thread is close. The thing fit perfectly and sealed up!

The valve might fail, its not meant for that. But for now bleeding the radiator is as easy as letting air out of any tire ....

Here are a couple of valves that should work if the hole is 1/8" NPT:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63765/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51108/10002/-1

 

[tigeravg]

Anyone know if either of the above bleeder valves cause any problems with seating the roof in the frunk? I would love to just press and play! That little 12mm bolt on my "aftermarket" rad is getting a bit rounded and a PITA in general.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I don't believe the threads on the rad are 1/8" NPT. Although a pipe thread is tapered and has a fairly aggressive bite, so it might 'work' even if it isn't the correct thread.

Someone here discovered a vent bolt from a BMW that has the same thread and fits the rad hole correctly. It is made of brass and uses a more conventional screwdriver to open and close it. I found aftermarket ones available for a couple dollars online:

 

[dllubin]

My factory bleed screw cracked/corroded where the vent hole was cross drilled. I rethreaded it in 1/8" NPT and installed an old fashioned T handle fitting like the ones often used on old American car radiator drains. I find it much easier to use - no tools required.

 

[Jefco]

The cabin and engine cover combination does make a low pressure area behind the rear window; I found out by going for a drive without latching the engine cover; at a moderate speed (well below highway) I saw the cover open about halfway. I have the rain tray, but have removed the splash guards from the bottom (on