Engine Bay detailing

Yes I think the super clean is basically the same as the purple power, Here it's the cheaper one go figure. I use the water based degreaser from Harbor freight in my parts washer, it works ok when warm and not so good when cold, so I'm working on a heated recirculating system for it.

I'd never want to live in California, way to many things cause cancer there....

I gave up on the trigger sprayers, I have tendonitis in my wrists so about 20 pumps is all there is. I also add valve stems in many of my garden sprayers so I don't have to pump them so much, just make sure you get the ones with a pressure relief valve to install the valve stem. I have gear oil and ATF in garden sprayers as well, I hate those little pumps under a car on your back..
 
I cleaned a transmission housing from being absolutely pasted in gunk to finally being fit for my Fiat. Put it up on a hoist, and with a wire brush, hot water, and degreaser, was able to get it pretty presentable.

I used this 'Super Clean', available at our local Wal-Mart. I am not sure I would use this in an engine bay without protecting some parts and pieces. This is an extremely effective degreaser, and worked better than Purple Power or Simple Green or anything else I have used short of solvents. It didn't seem to affect rubber parts or plastic bits, but I didn't leave it soak for very long.

DO NOT BREATHE IN THE FUMES! The chemical they use will set you coughing and hacking for an hour.

Super_Clean.jpeg
 
A couple of you mentioned using hot (warm) solutions for cleaning. I agree it really helps. Seems the added energy that heat provides to the equation does something to the formula. But I find it difficult to get enough heat into it, and also keep it hot, safely. I bought a very large "slow cooker" from the local Good Will store. Put the solution and parts into it and let it sit awhile. Works, but really slow (hence the name I guess) and a mess to empty after. I thought about trying to remove the heating element from it and installing into my parts washer. But I like to use flammable solvents in it so maybe not a good idea.
I also thought about adding one of the small "tankless" water heaters before my pressure washer. Not sure if that will work. My regular water heater is too far away to use, and it would run out of hot water long before I finished washing. The tankless models should provide an endless supply(?).


bpimm said:
I also add valve stems in many of my garden sprayers so I don't have to pump them so much
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I like this idea Brian. The garden sprayers I've used don't seem to last long, but it is the pump portion that tends to go out. So this would eliminate that. Have you found a plain cap that can be used in place of the pump?
Didn't think they would work for something as thick as gear oil, I'll have to try that as well. I did convert one to use for bleeding brakes with brake fluid. But I prefer to use the one I made before that; compressor set to low press and connected to a modified brake-reservoir cap. Fill reservoir and pressurize it. Less mess than the garden sprayer set-up for this application.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I like this idea Brian. The garden sprayers I've used don't seem to last long, but it is the pump portion that tends to go out. So this would eliminate that. Have you found a plain cap that can be used in place of the pump?
Didn't think they would work for something as thick as gear oil, I'll have to try that as well. I did convert one to use for bleeding brakes with brake fluid. But I prefer to use the one I made before that; compressor set to low press and connected to a modified brake-reservoir cap. Fill reservoir and pressurize it. Less mess than the garden sprayer set-up for this application.
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Don't buy the cheapest ones but even then it's a crap shoot, some last others don't. Never found a cap just toss it and get another. trick with gear oil is think ahead and get it warmed up, helps a bunch. I just sit the sprayer in a bucket of hot water.
 
bpimm said:
Never found a cap just toss it and get another.
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I was thinking more for eliminating all the pump stuff because you don't need it (with the schrader valve), not necessarily because it stopped working. But those are a odd large-thread cap, so not likely to find a substitute.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I was thinking more for eliminating all the pump stuff because you don't need it (with the schrader valve), not necessarily because it stopped working. But those are a odd large-thread cap, so not likely to find a substitute.
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I guess you could gut the pump and plug and seal the remaining housing. could probably find an expanding test plug for plumbing that would fit in the pump body. Something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-2-in-Gripper-Mechanical-Plastic-Test-Plug-33401/100346775

The biggest problem I see is the pump handle doubles as the handle to tighten and remove the plug as well so it might be hard to install it and remove it. I just leave them in place then you have dual function, hit it with compressed air or pump. When I put the finish on my house I used a 3 gallon garden sprayer with a regulator attached and kept the air hooked up.
 
True. Easier to just leave it.

We used a couple garden sprayers to apply countless gallons of stain/sealant to a huge wood fence surrounding a friend's property. Wish I'd thought of connecting the compressor to them, it was a LOT of pumping to do all that. But they made pretty quick work of it, and we just threw the sprayers away after (that stuff is really messy).
 
myronx19 said:
I scored a gallon in the clearance section of Walmart for a whopping $5!!
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That was a score. At the Walmart near me the largest Super Clean they carry is a gallon for something like $15 (IIRC), But the Purple Power is there in a 5 gallon container for $22. Go figure.
 
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