Engine cover and rear trunk latch delete?

carl

True Classic
In the process of replacing the latch release levers for the 77, not a fun job. Been driving around without any latches at the moment and at least up to 60mph neither the engine cover or rear trunk lid seem to lift at speed. I wonder if just some magnets would keep the lids from any clunking or tendency to lift at speed and negate the need of those fiddly latches. On the rat X I use hood pins but I don't want to cosmetically upset the 77. Hell, even Velcro would work better than those latches. Any other ideas on this?
 
Or maybe figure out a way to use a "push to close/push to open" latch like many modern cars use for the gas caps?

I can say with the later 1500 style engine covers, if they are not latched, they will open at speed, especially when going over bumps.
 
I've never had a early type (1300) X1/9 so I can't speak first hand. But the latch handle mechanism for the frunk is different I believe. I think it was Dan that described changing from one to the other style. The 1300 type seems simpler from the sounds of it; the latch pops open and no need to push the lever back forward to close it. I wonder if it is actually better?

Another option might be a electronic solenoid latch. Like the aftermarket remote trunk releases. Typically they utilize the existing latch mechanism. But use a pull solenoid to release it. Then add a "popper" spring to push the lid up a little. At least it eliminates the whole lever/cable assembly.
 
I've never had a early type (1300) X1/9 so I can't speak first hand. But the latch handle mechanism for the frunk is different I believe. I think it was Dan that described changing from one to the other style. The 1300 type seems simpler from the sounds of it; the latch pops open and no need to push the lever back forward to close it. I wonder if it is actually better?

Another option might be a electronic solenoid latch. Like the aftermarket remote trunk releases. Typically they utilize the existing latch mechanism. But use a pull solenoid to release it. Then add a "popper" spring to push the lid up a little. At least it eliminates the whole lever/cable assembly.
One advantage of the early style is that it can be locked with the top off since it is in the glove box.
 
My trunk never opens unassisted, I have never had it open when going over a bump when it is not latched.

My 1500’s engine cover if not latched will float open from lift over the targa bar and can then go all the way open if I hit the brakes when it is floating. Which is a little embarrassing. I ensure it is fully closed as hopping out to close it is a bit embarrassing.

(I have hopped out to put the top on in a rainstorm at a light which is fun fast activity which will get the attention of those around you)
 
I'm talking about the two REAR panels.
Ahhh, those levers. I suppose the electric solenoid suggestion might be better for the rear trunk release. But could also be used on the engine lid.

If your rain try is removed from the engine lid, can the latch assembly be seen through the slots in the lid when it is closed (I've never looked)? If it's a fairly straight shot down to it, then maybe you can make a short rod that extends up from the latch to activate it. In other words make it into a external release, by pulling on the new rod through one of the lid's slots.
You could even do that with the trunk lid latch, to the rear panel. Put something like a choke cable from the latch to somewhere discreet on the rear panel.
 
Well, this is true, could we use one of those Help brand universal choke cables to activate the rear trunk or engine cover...hmmmmm.
Yea, I know "carl why don't you get one and find out?"
 
Even Dzus fasteners would be discreet as they are small but, again, I don't want to drill any holes in the engine cover or trunk lid.
 
I had the same thought with Dzus fasteners, still shows too much. I was thinking even the choke cable idea might be too invasive mounted on the rear panel. So how about mounting the handle portion of it under the bumper area, somewhere on the rear grill. Or another discrete location; with the cable it can be routed most anywhere - even inside by the spare tire well. And yes, I believe a generic universal choke cable will work - that was what I had in mind when I suggested it. Very similar to how some 70's cars were from the factory, before there was any concern over theft of engine components, etc (the good old days - we never even locked our house door, let alone our car).

I'm not a fan of things like Velcro. Not due to the fastening aspect of the two pieces of it to one another. But to them staying adhered to the surface they are applied to. The "peel and stick" adhesives do not stay stuck in the heat (at least here).
 
Those latches work basically the same as the 124 hood release (same as early x19 frunk I think)...other than replacing them with a pair of pulls (ie the choke cable idea), it seems like the factory levers are about the easiest.

So, to keep the whole mech on the body work, would something along the line of an adapted/modified cabinet latch (the type that works a lot like the push open/push close modern gas doors) offer an option?
 
would something along the line of an adapted/modified cabinet latch (the type that works a lot like the push open/push close modern gas doors) offer an option?
Off the top of my head it seems a bit iffy, but for no particular reason. Cabinetry isn't my thing, but I think if you search through the wide range of door catches there must be something that would work. It'll be interesting to see what you come up with.
 
It won’t be me! I think the handles & cables are fine, but I could imagine a latch that is particularly over-designed for cabinetry (or two of them), working.
 
Keep it simple. Maybe just a short strip of weatherstrip in the hole (on both sideds) where the latch goes. All you need is something that would prevent the engine lid to pop open too easily. Same for the trunk.

Or maybe a kitchen or marine catch like this:

I tought about magnets, but I think they will have to be too heavy to do a good job.

Another "bad" idea would be to simply ad weight to the lids...
 
You might find that the neodymium magnets would hold the engine lid down with little trouble. The rear trunk lid won’t open unless you go over a serious bump.

I would start there.
 
You might find that the neodymium magnets would hold the engine lid down with little trouble. The rear trunk lid won’t open unless you go over a serious bump.

I would start there.

Couldn't resist. This thread is from October 2018...
 
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