Engine Cover repair

Michael Oxman

The Journey Begins!
So it is time to tackle the engine cover. As you can see, the lip that goes under the stripping by the back window is pretty much gone. My thought is to run a mesh wire along the length of where the lip should be and build a new lip out of fiberglass cloth and resin. The other thing I was thinking was whether it was possible to essentially "build" the lip using PC-7® PASTE EPOXY and then sand it to shape. I'm not sure you can fabricate with epoxy though.

Since this is not load bearing I'm thinking strength is not a paramount concern with this repair. Thanks in advance.
Engine Cover.jpg
Engine Cover 2.jpg
 
I'd have to look again at how it all fits together, but could you just trim off the rotted edge and use it that way?

I don't think epoxy will work, it will break. Fiberglass is better but it can get thick by the time it is all laid up. A strip of sheet metal would not be difficult to add. Either weld it on (or have it welded), or possibly rivet it on.
 
Wow, I have never seen one with rust in that location. Makes you wonder what else was affected by that localized moisture. If it were me I would just source a new cover and be done. But then I hate bodywork.
 
I've tried to find another cover but they're expensive and the ones I've seen had other rust. I like the idea of just trimming or adding a strip. I hadn't thought of those.
 
It looks like there may be enough good material left to support a metal strip over it. There are some very high strength adhesives that they are building cars with these days which could be a suitable way to attach it. Like you say, it isn't structural.
 
I would just add a strip of metal to replicate the missing sections and pop rivet it in place. Since this section hides under the rubber lip it won't be seen anyway. Don't overcomplicate this repair.
 
I agree, add a metal strip, just rivet if needs must. The rubber strip presses/levers against that lip everytime you open/close the lid. Fully open, it's pressing pretty hard against it. I think the fiberglass will need to be overly thick to not stress crack from that movement.
 
As for the location of the rust, being in a rather obscure place, it is interesting. On a couple of my X's there are similar isolated rust areas. And they don't necessarily make a lot of sense, because all of the common rust areas on those cars (where you would expect to find it) are completely clean and rust free. While the few areas that are rusty seem like some of the last places you'd expect to find it. So I guess it can happen anywhere without much logic to explain it.

Considering the engine lid is not a sealed component, I'm not certain it even needs this lip? Just trimming it off definitely creates less exposure than removing the rain tray, which is common.
 
I've tried to find another cover but they're expensive and the ones I've seen had other rust. I like the idea of just trimming or adding a strip. I hadn't thought of those.

I have a almost perfect cover that will be available as soon as I do the conversion.
 
Finally got around to finishing the engine cover today. Took your collective advice and added a metal strip. It was too thick for the rivets I had so I ended up attaching it with PC-7 epoxy. When the car is dust that strip will still be attached. A few coats of rust-oleum black satin drying now and then it will be good to go.

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Great looking job Michael. Rust Oleum black satin turned out neat. I have to re paint my engine cover after a pin hole fuel leak started an engine bay fire that turned my engine cover into a barbeque hot plate. Will have it sand-blasted first and undercoat the bare metal To protect the black satin how would satin clear laquer look.
 
look at mine..... burnt + some edge rust...... Sandblast, metal strip and epoxy....... Yours turned out well..... Rust Oleum black satin, nice finish. Satin clear lacquer to protect as final coat ?

82 X 1/9
 

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look at mine..... burnt + some edge rust...... Sandblast, metal strip and epoxy....... Yours turned out well..... Rust Oleum black satin, nice finish. Satin clear lacquer to protect as final coat ?

82 X 1/9
Sorry to see this! Hope the car can be repaired. The paint was right out of the can, three or four coats. I started to put on a clear but I didn't like how it was laying down (very mottled - maybe it was cold, maybe it was a bad nozzle, i don't know) so just paint
 
Sorry to see this! Hope the car can be repaired. The paint was right out of the can, three or four coats. I started to put on a clear but I didn't like how it was laying down (very mottled - maybe it was cold, maybe it was a bad nozzle, i don't know) so just paint
 
Michael the car did not suffer so much damage that can't be repaired with time and persevearence. Its mostly engine ignition and electricals that suffered a meltdown. Slowly replaced them all. Next its the melted fuel lines where fire I believe originated. Great job from a spray can. Will show you mine when I finish the job. Mine is now with the sand blasters to remove old paint and rust. Then like you epoxy filler for rust and undercoat, top coats and lacquer all in satin.

Michael Salvador
1982 X 1/9
1995 Honda Acura VTIr
 
look at mine..... burnt + some edge rust...... Sandblast, metal strip and epoxy....... Yours turned out well..... Rust Oleum black satin, nice finish. Satin clear lacquer to protect as final coat ?

82 X 1/9

sand blasting won't save that... unfortunately fire has a habit of bending metal, and you will find it has the appearance of a rough sea on a windy night when you look at it closely, satin black shows up imperfections like rams testicles, toss it and find another engine cover.

SteveC
 
sand blasting won't save that... unfortunately fire has a habit of bending metal, and you will find it has the appearance of a rough sea on a windy night when you look at it closely, satin black shows up imperfections like rams testicles, toss it and find another engine cover.

SteveC
 
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