Euro bumpers

jovani

jovani

True Classic
My version of a Euro style bumpers, made out of high quality rubber, are done. Result is just fantastic - perfect smooth surface, consistent rubber thickness, light weight shock absorbent filament, zero gap fit around the body. Will make the light impact absorbent mounting brackets next few days. As I have described in my previous posts, I sculpted my own version of the early Euro bumpers with the idea to improve some overlooked factory flaws - the poor fit, the disproportional rear blades size, the unfinished front bumper look. Most survived US cars today have practical, but ugly bumpers and I attempt to make ones looking right and to compliment the otherwise beautifully shaped X1/9. Not only Euro bumpers are hard to find and conversion is difficult, but now I offer the following options:
1. Corner blades only
2. Corner rears and full length front
3. With or without bumper blocks for the above (rubber, carbon or fiberglass)
4. Tight or distant (up to 20mm) fit around the body
5. Carbon fiber (clear coated or color painted) skins only or foam filled; or rubber
6. With or without mounting brackets for late cars easy conversion
7. Brand new matching front turn signals, correctly positioned for best look and visibility
8. Turn signals only with mounting plate for bumperless front
9. Early style front valance/grill assembly - carbon fiber or carbon with integrated rubber lowest lip of the valance.
Please note, on impact EVERY bumper or valance gets damaged, I am trying to minimize this, but can not create miracle parts, especially by the enormous limit of matching existing body design. Intension is offering hard to find replacement parts WITH currently unavailable options described above. Posting photos of the grill/valance, turn signals, carbon and rubber (gray paintable) rear blades. Posting the same in "FS&W" forum.View attachment 7128 View attachment 7129 View attachment 7131 View attachment 7132 View attachment 7133
 
Fresh out of the mould late today, pictured untrimmed, uncleaned, unpainted and not tightened, but I like them. Still wonder if I should add the blocks, the car looks elegant without them, but being familiar with the stock design, blocks give it more aggressive and finished look. I must think :) Please give me a day or two to calculate the cost, with no commitment at the moment, the pictured 2 rears and the front are about $600 and the grill/valance assembly about $350. Feel free to contact me at 610-732-9306 till late evenings PST.20171221_145019.jpg 20171221_194925.jpg 20171221_194834.jpg 20171221_140721.jpg 20171221_140736.jpg 20171221_140801.jpg 20171221_140823.jpg
 
At first glance I think they look better without blocks but the blocks are probably practical. I would love to get a set.
 
Looks very good. Another pic of the front per chance?

This is along the line of what I was thinking would be a nice solution. Very nice work.
 
Anandastar said:
At first glance I think they look better without blocks but the blocks are probably practical. I would love to get a set.
Click to expand...
Blocks can be added anytime, but holes must be drilled through the bumpers, that's why I hesitate to do it for my set. But even if I drill holes, I can make quarter size flush rubber round plugs, almost invisible, in case I end up not installing the blocks. Four blocks alone cost me about $180 and require solid mounts for additional cost. So I am still thinking, being on a budget. Let me know if you want a set, takes me a week to make. Paint is optional, I recommend 2K flat black, I bought HouseOfKolor self UV protected paint. BTW, with no blocks, I do not see the need of massive mounting brackets, where the original shocks are inserted. I will use the sheetmetal existing holes meant for mounting the fillerstrips on my 1981 model. In case if an impact, the stock Euro bumpers will not prevent body damage, even worse, they get damaged too. My bumpers are at least very flexible even with flush fit and yet feel very solid on squeeze. Also, I can make new sets for replacements in case of damage at anytime, which is not the case about the stock bumpers :) BTW, the middle section of my full length front bumper can be cut away if desired and you get the stock whiskers look. I will post photos as soon as I take some.
 
Neat solution to the left over filler trim holes when fitting retro bumpers to later cars if you use them to mount your bumper rubbers. Have you fitted nut-serts into the rubber or studs for mounting? Any chance of moulding them in a black rubber solution rather than grey?

SteveC
 
Ciao,

Thank you for sharing this great product.
My compliments for your ideas and craftmanship, this is what all X 1/9 friends like, enthusiasm and initiative
I wish you all the best and a Merry Christmas from the Netherlands,

Henk Martens
 
fiatfactory said:
Neat solution to the left over filler trim holes when fitting retro bumpers to later cars if you use them to mount your bumper rubbers. Have you fitted nut-serts into the rubber or studs for mounting? Any chance of moulding them in a black rubber solution rather than grey?

SteveC
Click to expand...
Yes, metal L shaped 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" with stainless steel 6mm studs is permanent part of the rubber, tedious to position in the mould when applying the liquid rubber, but the result is good, makes installation easy. May use nut serts in the future for studs or bolts. And yes, I was looking for black rubber, but the only one I found was very expensive, any suggestions? Now I wonder where to position the blocks, over the shock holes or further inwards?
 
Henk Martens said:
Ciao,

Thank you for sharing this great product.
My compliments for your ideas and craftmanship, this is what all X 1/9 friends like, enthusiasm and initiative
I wish you all the best and a Merry Christmas from the Netherlands,

Henk Martens
Click to expand...
Dank je!!!
 
Regarding the "blocks", my opinion would be to NOT add them. I like the style of your design as it is in the pictures you posted above. The blocks are like a large wart on the tip of a beautiful girl's nose.

I've always thought of the 'blocks' as something the factory added due to a government requirement of some type (not saying that was the case on the X, but that is what they look like to me). For a comparison, Porsche had to add them to the 911 to meet crash standards.

Over the decades of customizing European automobiles, removing such blocks has always been one of the standard practices.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Regarding the "blocks", my opinion would be to NOT add them. I like the style of your design as it is in the pictures you posted above. The blocks are like a large wart on the tip of a beautiful girl's nose.

I've always thought of the 'blocks' as something the factory added due to a government requirement of some type (not saying that was the case on the X, but that is what they look like to me). For a comparison, Porsche had to add them to the 911 to meet crash standards.

Over the decades of customizing European automobiles, removing such blocks has always been one of the standard practices.
Click to expand...
Well, too late. Today I drilled the necessary 1"x1" square holes for the blocks and spent the day trimming rubber. For this experiment I used new factory blocks from another car. The front looks ok. At the rear I couldn't decide where to position them, further inwards (like on the stock X right under the night reflectors) or over the ugly, but useful towing ears. Did the latter and... don't want to talk about it. Not horrible, but don't want to talk about it :) At least the fit is perfect. I should probably make my own design blocks, wider for the rear and a touch longer for the front. Next is to paint the bumpers flat black.20171223_183006.jpg 20171223_183135.jpg 20171223_183049.jpg 20171223_153348.jpg 20171223_153547.jpg 20171223_153528.jpg 20171223_153441.jpg
 
Rear blocks look positioned OK, covers the parting line of your moulding.
Those must be USA spec blocks, the European profile is quite different and you might prefer the lower profile shape.

SteveC
 
Also the position of the blocks is different on the euro bumpers (further inward).
Do check out some pics and see what you like better.
 
Thanks you all for the good words and advice. As I said, blocks or not and their position is optional, it's up to the owner (customer). Bumper's no-gap fit was necessary for me to ensure perfect shape, but they can also be mounted at any distance from the body panels up to say an inch. Moulding parting line on rear bumpers is easily sandable before painting, which I will do for every bumper made. The blocks on the photos are not US spec, but OE equipment Italian design, not X1/9 though. I like their quality, availability and the hight perfectly overshadow the the towing hooks. I just wish they were little wider. Merry Christmas to all who prefer celebrating Jesus' birth instead of hugely more important for the human's prosperity birthday of Isaac Newton :)
 
Jovani- great mold work. I’ve been making fiberglass parts for 30 Years and can appreciate what’s involved.
I too was playing around with the idea of a one-piece front bumper 20 years ago.
As far as bumper blocks, not my cup of tea, but logic would place them in line with the tow hooks.
And, most importantly, Merry Christmas!

B993CAFE-C1BF-49EE-B16A-6D678E1EAE74.jpeg
 
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