Eurosport body, K20 power

Yeah, that part will come but it will be quite a while before I start with the body. I want to get the suspension (coilovers with VW struts - thanks to Doug Martin for his work and help) in place first, and a prerequisite to that is to get the engine in (couple hour job now) but before I do that I want to do the engine bay work such as insulation, brake lines, wiring to the rear........... and anything else that would be more difficult with the engine in place.

With the suspension in I can order the wheels and tires, and with those in place I can fit/modify the fiberglass.

At least that is my plan for now - anyone is welcome to point out the flaws!
 
Depending on what rate springs you are looking at - I would seriously consider doing the Ford Focus strut mounts. The Fiat design / aftermarket replacements don't hold up with higher spring rates in my experience.

I'm just surprised you made the painting before the cutting for the k20 clearance.

He did all the cuts already
 
Depending on what rate springs you are looking at - I would seriously consider doing the Ford Focus strut mounts. The Fiat design / aftermarket replacements don't hold up with higher spring rates in my experience.

Agree, I am ordering the parts this week, Koni inserts, Bicknell sleeves, QA1 variable rate springs, Ford mounts, Volvo bearings. I learned a lot from your experience!
 
Agree, I am ordering the parts this week, Koni inserts, Bicknell sleeves, QA1 variable rate springs, Ford mounts, Volvo bearings. I learned a lot from your experience!

Mark - you also need the spring seat/bearing cup, unless you are making you own - those come from Kaplhenke Racing - ignore the image that shows with the item - for some reason it doesn't show the exact part

2.5" Luxe Steer Spring Perch (pair) part is actually as shown here on left:

Don't forget you need to shave down the webbing for the bearing to seat over the mount ridge - I didn't want to cut into the mount
IMG-20201015-173556.jpg
 
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Thanks, I missed that. I assume this are only needed for the front? Obviously no bearing is needed for the rear, will the spring seat correctly onto the Focus mount?

In the rear, I used a pair of cut down wheel spacers that I had laying around - just needs to be something to prevent the spring pressing directly into the rubber

Revised-Offset-Seat.jpg


If the Konis have similar shaft to Bilstein, you will need approx 1/2" spacer on top for the nut - also I drilled the mount inset to 14mm to clear the shaft

RevisedOffset.jpg
 
Maybe take a look at some of the components available from the vendors that specialize in coilovers. You might find basic spring perches that can be used without the need to make something.

Here is one such vendor: https://www.a1racing.com/
 
Maybe take a look at some of the components available from the vendors that specialize in coilovers. You might find basic spring perches that can be used without the need to make something.

Here is one such vendor: https://www.a1racing.com/

The problem is most of them have too much height, and recesses that won't work with the Ford mount, additionally, they tend to run in the $30 + range so not a cheap & easy thing to locate.

QA1 shows one for about $17, but its actually the threaded adjuster seat, so the ID may or may not fit over the ridge on the mount. SummitRacing for one has a range, but you'd still need to find the spec on any given item to figure it out. I found it easier to use a $5 generic wheel spacer & cut it down :D
 
Thanks, I missed that. I assume this are only needed for the front? Obviously no bearing is needed for the rear, will the spring seat correctly onto the Focus mount?

As a note - this is how I cut down the webbing - diagonal pliers to snip from outside & inside, then carbide burr to round it out back to the base of the webbing. Go easy, you don't want to go through the casing

PXL_20201022_203801479.jpg
PXL_20201022_203754559.jpg
PXL_20201022_203702692.jpg
 
When I had the car body media blasted the blaster would not do the center portions of the hood for fear of warping. So I sanded those areas with my DA sander. I was surprised at the layers - first was the top coat - darkish blue, then another coat of lighter blue, then what appeared to be a coat of pink glazing putty, then a second coat of the lighter blue, then a second coat of the pink, and finally a coat of black which I took to be a primer. Underneath all that, in a few places, was a thin layer of body filler.

Either this car has been repainted a couple of times or a lot of finishing work was done at the factory!

Hood Paint.jpg
 
Either this car has been repainted a couple of times or a lot of finishing work was done at the factory!
My vote would be "A" (repainted). The entire bodies on these were not that well refined from the factory, so I can't imagine them going to all the time/effort to perfect the top of the hood, yet leave everything else rather poorly finished (at least compared to other makes from that era).
 
I'll bet loading it by yourself the first time was a bit nerve racking. 😲

I like bedliner material for undercoating, and maybe even other areas like engine bay or trunk lining. I bought some "DIY" bedliner to do the undercoat on mine; I've never used the stuff so not sure how it will come out.

You are making great progress. ;)
 
I had some help loading it, and didn't use the "best" method available, but after a bit of struggle we got it on. One of the problems is that all the casters on the rotisserie swivel, and while this works great in the shop when I want to move it around, I don't have a flat spot in the yard.........so someone has to be on each end to keep it from rolling away.

I have a 4 post hoist, and when it comes home I will just set the hoist at the level of the trailer, use the hoist ramps as a bridge and roll it from the trailer to the hoist. Then let the hoist down and roll it off. Should have done this to load it, but I have a vehicle stored up on the hoist and didn't want to have to move it..............it would definitely have been the better option.
 
Also impressive that (it appears) you primed and fully painted all the inner cavities - no visions of rust nibbling away at all those unseen panel joints :)
 
Also impressive that (it appears) you primed and fully painted all the inner cavities - no visions of rust nibbling away at all those unseen panel joints :)
Certainly seems easier to do that when all of the body work is cut away from the car, allowing great access to everything. :)
 
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