rjplenter
True Classic
Hi all,
We're moving back to Australia and I can either sell my X here and start a new project down under, or ship this car over there. I'm wondering if anyone here is interested in buying my restomod X. I'm looking for offers over $7,000.
*** Before you read any further, this is a 1975 Colorado registered car, which means it does not require to pass emissions here and so due to the nature of the build, it will not pass emissions in many other states. ***
Many of you may have seen the details of the engine build:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/1603cc-engine-build.25589/
A lot of time, effort, research, advice and assistance of forums members, especially Hussein, Steve and Bernice, has been put into this build. This has resulted in significant bumps in capacity and compression, and a SIGNIFICANTLY lightened valve train. All of this has resulted in an engine with excellent low down torque that revs all the way to 8,000rpm. It is very drivable in traffic and hauls like a train on our local mountain roads.
Here are some engine details:
1603cc engine
Bottom end
1500 block (138A)
Bore = 87mm
Stroke = 67.4mm (European crank, not a modified standard crank and did not require modifications to the block for clearance)
Scat forged connecting rods
Ross Racing lightweight gudgeon pins
ARP main bearing cap bolts
Vandervell crank bearings
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Windage tray and sump baffles
10-tooth oil pump
ARP flywheel bolts
Lightened and balanced flywheel
Head
Yugo 1100 head, ported, ports matched to inlet manifold
Extensive work to the combustion chambers
Inlet valves = 39.5mm
Exhaust valves = 33.5mm
Cam = 42/76 Intake - 68/36 Exhaust, 110 degree lobe center, 10.25mm maximum lift
Millers Mule adjustable cam pulley
Valve springs = single coil, beehive ovate wire (Subaru 10,000rpm springs)
Titanium spring retainers
Valve stem locks
Steel spring locators
Shimless buckets
Under-bucket lash caps
ARP head studs
Cambox studs
Ignition
Marelli S135 distributor
Crane XR3000 electronic ignition and matching coil
NGK BPR7eix spark plugs
Custom plug leads
Custom serpentine belt drive for alternator and water pump
Dual Dellorto 40 DRLA carbs with 36mm venturis on Alquati copy manifold
Electric fuel pump with emergency (Ford Mustang?) shut-off switch
ANSA 4-2 headers, custom system 2-1 to exhaust tip with Camaro muffler
* No catalytic converter *
Rebuilt 4 speed gearbox with 3.76 final drive ratio
Bernice Loui (Rupunzell) gearshift linkage modification
Bob Grasch aluminum radiator
Tried an oil cooler, but wasn't necessary
Strengthened engine cross-member
Suspension,steering:
Coilovers all around (have a second set of softer springs)
Koni front shocks
Don't recall rear shocks, but I don't think they are Koni
Front anti-roll bar
Front steering thrust plate bearings
Polyurethane steering column bush
Polyurethane steering rack mounts
Mark Plaia spec heavy duty upper strut mounts
Polyurethane bushes all around
15" wheels with Toyo Proxes T1R 195/45 tires
Brakes:
Allison Automotive front big brake kit with 4-pot Wilwood calipers
Drilled and grooved rear disks
Tried a hydraulic handbrake, but wasn't as successful I liked with the standard handbrake lever, master cylinder still plumbed into the rear braking circuit, but not actuated
Electrics:
Allison Automotive high torque starter
65A internally regulated alternator
Brown wire mod
H4 headlight globes with Midwest Bayless relay harnesses
Hella driving lights
Exterior ancillary LED lights
LED dash lights
Blade type fuse box installed
I've been endeavouring to clean up the wiring, but this still needs some hours of attention
Other details:
Momo Prototipo steering wheel
Vitaloni exterior rear view mirrors
Front and rear spoilers
Remote door locks
The body/chassis:
Bumperless conversion
Not much surface rust when I got the car, it was addressed, but some small bubbles reappearing in the surface of one rear wheel arch
It has a 50 foot paint job and definitely needs a good paint job
Now some bad. There are some previous owner "modifications/repairs" that I have not dealt with yet, some I have. None of these effect the performance of the car, but should eventually be fixed
There are probably many other mods I've forgotten to add here.
Only serious enquiries please.
Cheers,
Rob
We're moving back to Australia and I can either sell my X here and start a new project down under, or ship this car over there. I'm wondering if anyone here is interested in buying my restomod X. I'm looking for offers over $7,000.
*** Before you read any further, this is a 1975 Colorado registered car, which means it does not require to pass emissions here and so due to the nature of the build, it will not pass emissions in many other states. ***
Many of you may have seen the details of the engine build:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/1603cc-engine-build.25589/
A lot of time, effort, research, advice and assistance of forums members, especially Hussein, Steve and Bernice, has been put into this build. This has resulted in significant bumps in capacity and compression, and a SIGNIFICANTLY lightened valve train. All of this has resulted in an engine with excellent low down torque that revs all the way to 8,000rpm. It is very drivable in traffic and hauls like a train on our local mountain roads.
Here are some engine details:
1603cc engine
Bottom end
1500 block (138A)
Bore = 87mm
Stroke = 67.4mm (European crank, not a modified standard crank and did not require modifications to the block for clearance)
Scat forged connecting rods
Ross Racing lightweight gudgeon pins
ARP main bearing cap bolts
Vandervell crank bearings
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Windage tray and sump baffles
10-tooth oil pump
ARP flywheel bolts
Lightened and balanced flywheel
Head
Yugo 1100 head, ported, ports matched to inlet manifold
Extensive work to the combustion chambers
Inlet valves = 39.5mm
Exhaust valves = 33.5mm
Cam = 42/76 Intake - 68/36 Exhaust, 110 degree lobe center, 10.25mm maximum lift
Millers Mule adjustable cam pulley
Valve springs = single coil, beehive ovate wire (Subaru 10,000rpm springs)
Titanium spring retainers
Valve stem locks
Steel spring locators
Shimless buckets
Under-bucket lash caps
ARP head studs
Cambox studs
Ignition
Marelli S135 distributor
Crane XR3000 electronic ignition and matching coil
NGK BPR7eix spark plugs
Custom plug leads
Custom serpentine belt drive for alternator and water pump
Dual Dellorto 40 DRLA carbs with 36mm venturis on Alquati copy manifold
Electric fuel pump with emergency (Ford Mustang?) shut-off switch
ANSA 4-2 headers, custom system 2-1 to exhaust tip with Camaro muffler
* No catalytic converter *
Rebuilt 4 speed gearbox with 3.76 final drive ratio
Bernice Loui (Rupunzell) gearshift linkage modification
Bob Grasch aluminum radiator
Tried an oil cooler, but wasn't necessary
Strengthened engine cross-member
Suspension,steering:
Coilovers all around (have a second set of softer springs)
Koni front shocks
Don't recall rear shocks, but I don't think they are Koni
Front anti-roll bar
Front steering thrust plate bearings
Polyurethane steering column bush
Polyurethane steering rack mounts
Mark Plaia spec heavy duty upper strut mounts
Polyurethane bushes all around
15" wheels with Toyo Proxes T1R 195/45 tires
Brakes:
Allison Automotive front big brake kit with 4-pot Wilwood calipers
Drilled and grooved rear disks
Tried a hydraulic handbrake, but wasn't as successful I liked with the standard handbrake lever, master cylinder still plumbed into the rear braking circuit, but not actuated
Electrics:
Allison Automotive high torque starter
65A internally regulated alternator
Brown wire mod
H4 headlight globes with Midwest Bayless relay harnesses
Hella driving lights
Exterior ancillary LED lights
LED dash lights
Blade type fuse box installed
I've been endeavouring to clean up the wiring, but this still needs some hours of attention
Other details:
Momo Prototipo steering wheel
Vitaloni exterior rear view mirrors
Front and rear spoilers
Remote door locks
The body/chassis:
Bumperless conversion
Not much surface rust when I got the car, it was addressed, but some small bubbles reappearing in the surface of one rear wheel arch
It has a 50 foot paint job and definitely needs a good paint job
Now some bad. There are some previous owner "modifications/repairs" that I have not dealt with yet, some I have. None of these effect the performance of the car, but should eventually be fixed
There are probably many other mods I've forgotten to add here.
Only serious enquiries please.
Cheers,
Rob