Fitting Wide Aftermarket Wheels
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
Andy
True Classic
I recently bought wheels (and tires) from Tire Rack for my 500e. I enterted my car model information, and picked from the wheels listed to fit my car.
Imagine my surprise when the wheels were delivered and I saw they are 4x100mm bolt pattern and were accomplanied by wobble bolts.
I was a bit upset that it was not made clear at the time of ordering that the wheels were not 4x98, but then decided that if Tire Rack is confident enough to ship them, then they must be OK.
I haven't put a lot of miles on them (Summer tires), but they seemed to do fine. I'm still not a big fan of the concept though.
Imagine my surprise when the wheels were delivered and I saw they are 4x100mm bolt pattern and were accomplanied by wobble bolts.
I was a bit upset that it was not made clear at the time of ordering that the wheels were not 4x98, but then decided that if Tire Rack is confident enough to ship them, then they must be OK.
I haven't put a lot of miles on them (Summer tires), but they seemed to do fine. I'm still not a big fan of the concept though.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I misunderstood, sorry for the confusion.
That isn't right, they should be accurate about what they are selling up front. I've noticed that Tire Rack has changed dramatically over the years (for the worse). Guess that is typical with growth though.
stingray250
True Classic
Eastep
True Classic
Just wanted to give an update to this project. After a year of countless dollars and far too much effort then it's worth. Despite test fitting and re test fitting; the wheels simply stuck out at least 3.5 inches. So it's with a heavy heart that I swallow some pride and throw in the towel. I went against the advice of so many exxer's and my better judgement on this endeavor.
Just kidding. The car still needs to drop an inch or so and maybe an extra 5mm of spacer, for the rear.
Front:
Rear:
Teaser:
Just kidding. The car still needs to drop an inch or so and maybe an extra 5mm of spacer, for the rear.
Front:
Rear:
Teaser:
Last edited:
motoTrooper
True Classic
Nice "curb feelers" you tease!
kmead
Old enough to know better
Congrats and glad it all worked out.
The most important part is that you are happy with the result. You own it, we don’t so it really doesn’t matter much what we think.
It looks very good, love the dish but the poke not so much. Something I could never do with the road conditions we have here in Michigan.
The most important part is that you are happy with the result. You own it, we don’t so it really doesn’t matter much what we think.
It looks very good, love the dish but the poke not so much. Something I could never do with the road conditions we have here in Michigan.
AKimball92
True Classic
I have a hard time keeping my stock Mazda3 wheels and tire size lasting half the rated tire life here in Detroit. Its terrible...
Eastep, your car does look good! We need more pictures! With that you need 2 X's, one for curves and one for cruising.
Eastep
True Classic
Please note that I'm still actively searching for rear lug bolts. The most difficult part of this fittment has been aquiring the correct lugs & lengths. I'll get to those in a sec. The wheel specs are as mentioned previously in this thread @ 15× 8.25 with a +20 offset. The tires are Nankang NS-20's in 185/45/15 with a V speed rating. These are a very uncommon (in the US) size, and had to be purchased from the UK (thanks Ulix). Mounting consisted of custom 4x98 to 4x100 in 20mm thickness, (for the rear) adapters. Specs are 58.1 to 58.1 hub bore/mounting hub with standard Fiat M12×1.25 thread pitch. Again, sourced from the UK. The fronts are standard Eibach 4×98 hub centric spacers, in 10mm thickness. The fronts required this type of spacer, as it provided a stock 58.1 mounting hub, so centric rings (for the wheels) could be fit. Unfortunately stacking OEM spacers, can not work for this, as they are void of the centric hub. The wheels themselves have a 68.1 center bore. This is where keeping the custom and off the shelf spacers, with their 58.1 centers, comes into play. Instead of having to purchase different sizes on centric rings, I was albe to use a single set of 58.1 to 68.1 rings. This is ideal for future roadside repairs and helped keep the costs down... Even if it was only a $14 savings
. As I mentioned earlier; the lugs were the real PITA. Since the front spacers are 4x98 only; wobble bolts were required. The jump from 4x98 to 4x100 is very minimal, so for simplicity and time, it only makes sense to use the wobble bolts. I could have probably used OEM bolts and slightly sanded the bolt holes on the wheels; why chance it, though? I ordered 16 of these. The wobble bolts are again in standard M12x1.25 by 60mm (35mm grip). The rear lugs are a mix of OEM lugs and "collars" from the other 8 wobble bolts. Since the rears are adapted to 4x100, there isn't a need for "wobble" bolts. I used the collars with or lugs, only because the ball seat of the OEM lug, is too narrow, for the wheels. I will buy some new lugs in a few days. In the meantime, it's like 70° out and I'm gonna drive the car today, so they will do, for now. Everything was finally assembled yesterday morning, so it's very recent, events. While on the test drive yesterday, I could hear some scraping of rim to suspension, up front. Since I was running late for work, I parked the X and took my daily, instead. This morning I woke up extra early to fix the rubbing. I removed the wheels and could see a very slight rub on the helper spring, of my coils. A couple quick passes of an angle grinder, and it's as smooth as butter.
The only varience in specs that I would change, from those mentioned above (and with a far deeper budget) I would have the rear spacer/adapters speced to 23-24mm and the fronts to 11mm.
Eastep
True Classic
Thanks. I appreciate it. I also agree with the multiple X suggestion. My wife, on the other hand, does not! Lol
I forgot to mention that the handling is actually a little better then before. Even with the added weight of adapters; the wheels and tires are far lighter then the previous wheels. The centric rings used, are plasitc and weigh next to nothing.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Regarding lug bolts, bolt patterns, wheel lug seat types:
If for either the front or rear you have a hard time finding the correct lug bolts; due to the need for wobbles, or the seat type required for the wheels, or the length of the bolts, etc, etc.....
Consider the use of studs and lug nuts, rather than lug bolts. The nuts are available in a greater selection of different seat types, wobble, etc, and allow for any stud length needed (with the studs being separate). So just about any combination is possible, which is much more difficult to do with lug bolts.
If for either the front or rear you have a hard time finding the correct lug bolts; due to the need for wobbles, or the seat type required for the wheels, or the length of the bolts, etc, etc.....
Consider the use of studs and lug nuts, rather than lug bolts. The nuts are available in a greater selection of different seat types, wobble, etc, and allow for any stud length needed (with the studs being separate). So just about any combination is possible, which is much more difficult to do with lug bolts.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Funny, I know what you mean. Seems every time I calculate the dimensions for a specific application and acquire the correct components to build it. Then after it is assembled and I step back and look at it, I think I could have gone just a little more.
Eastep
True Classic
Thanks Jeff. A studs and lug nuts setup, was my first choice, in the matter. The issue I ran into, was finding that "sweet spot" on the stud lengths & in M12×1.25 & that don't require being pressed into the hubs. Seems I could find them in 100mm or 40mm lengths, with maybe a couple others in there, like 160mm and 21mm... This leaving me like "wtf" am I gonna do with those!? I'm just glad it all worked out, in the end.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Sounds good. The studs I was referring to are not press-in or such, but simple screw-in conversions from bolts to studs (sort of like all-thread rod). I'd have to double check but I believe there are several lengths available in the Fiat thread size. They are also available in dual-thread patterns; the end that goes into the hub is a Fiat thread, the other end can be any standard thread. That allows for even greater choices of lug-nut options due to the more common thread pattern. Also even different diameters to accommodate wheels made for larger lug sizes. But looks like you got it handled.
