Forming a bead on tubes

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
NOTE: New content was later added to help with using the tool described here. Scroll down to find the newer post with that info.

Awhile back there was a thread about replacing the coolant tubes under the car. Part of the topic discussed how to secure the hoses onto the ends by forming a "bead" around the tubes.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/attachment-of-water-pipes-inside-bottom-tunnel.32969/

One of the methods to form the beads was to 'crimp' them using a large washer welded onto ViceGrips. Looks like this:
P1020089 (Custom).JPG


Replacing the coolant tubes is one of the many things needed on my car. But currently I'm developing a turbo kit for it (doing the fun stuff first). To fit everything in the cramped engine bay I have to make a couple custom aluminum pipes for the intercooler. So I decided to try the same method shown above to form a bead on the aluminum tube. One thing I did not care for with this method is the washer is thin and makes a narrow, harsh crimp rather than a smooth, humped bead. To help with this I wanted to use a fatter, rounder item instead of a washer. In my stash of misc junk was a couple old-school exhaust clamps; one quite small (1-1/2", below) and the other larger. The aluminum tube is 2-1/2" so these looked like they would work.
011.JPG


First I cut the legs off the "U-bolt" from the small clamp:
012.JPG


Then I took the arched bracket from the larger clamp:
013.JPG


And welded both to a old pair of ViceGrips:
018.JPG


It worked to make a wider, smoother bead, but it was very slow. The ViceGrips could only take a shallow bite each time and multiple passes were required, each with a successively stronger setting and lots of grip force. Slow and difficult.

Then I decided to use the same forming components but instead of ViceGrips I mounted them onto a couple pieces of angle iron that could be used in a bench vice:
022.JPG


This allowed the force of the vice to create the bead much faster and with less effort. Here is a picture of 3 samples. The short tube on the left is a piece of scrap used for testing. On the left end of it is the bead made with the ViceGrips, after multiple passes it is still very shallow. The bead on the right end of the same tube was made with the bench vice, after a single pass. You can see the bead is taller, and it can be made much larger still with another pass. The longer tube on the right shows a pre-made bead as supplied from the manufacturer. Very similar to the homemade bead:
025.JPG


Here are a couple additional views of the "bench vice" bead after a single pass:
026.JPG

028.JPG


I don't have pictures of it but with another trip through the former the bead is very close to the "factory" one.

I will be using copper tubes for the coolant pipes and plan to use the same technique to form beads on them. Being smaller in diameter they will require smaller dies. The leftover 'arched' bracket from the smaller exhaust clamp will work for one half of it. For the half-circle U-bolt half I will use a welded-ring. This is fat enough to make the same smooth, wide bead:
016.JPG


But that will have to wait until later on; too many fun projects to do first.
 
Last edited:
Awhile back there was a thread about replacing the coolant tubes under the car. Part of the topic discussed how to secure the hoses onto the ends by forming a "bead" around the tubes.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/attachment-of-water-pipes-inside-bottom-tunnel.32969/

One of the methods to form the beads was to 'crimp' them using a large washer welded onto ViceGrips. Looks like this:
View attachment 12240

Replacing the coolant tubes is one of the many things needed on my car. But currently I'm developing a turbo kit for it (doing the fun stuff first). To fit everything in the cramped engine bay I have to make a couple custom aluminum pipes for the intercooler. So I decided to try the same method shown above to form a bead on the aluminum tube. One thing I did not care for with this method is the washer is thin and makes a narrow, harsh crimp rather than a smooth, humped bead. To help with this I wanted to use a fatter, rounder item instead of a washer. In my stash of misc junk was a couple old-school exhaust clamps; one quite small (1-1/2", below) and the other larger. The aluminum tube is 2-1/2" so these looked like they would work.
View attachment 12236

First I cut the legs off the "U-bolt" from the small clamp:
View attachment 12237

Then I took the arched bracket from the larger clamp:
View attachment 12238

And welded both to a old pair of ViceGrips:
View attachment 12239

It worked to make a wider, smoother bead, but it was very slow. The ViceGrips could only take a shallow bite each time and multiple passes were required, each with a successively stronger setting and lots of grip force. Slow and difficult.

Then I decided to use the same forming components but instead of ViceGrips I mounted them onto a couple pieces of angle iron that could be used in a bench vice:
View attachment 12241

This allowed the force of the vice to create the bead much faster and with less effort. Here is a picture of 3 samples. The short tube on the left is a piece of scrap used for testing. On the left end of it is the bead made with the ViceGrips, after multiple passes it is still very shallow. The bead on the right end of the same tube was made with the bench vice, after a single pass. You can see the bead is taller, and it can be made much larger still with another pass. The longer tube on the right shows a pre-made bead as supplied from the manufacturer. Very similar to the homemade bead:
View attachment 12242

Here are a couple additional views of the "bench vice" bead after a single pass:
View attachment 12243
View attachment 12244

I don't have pictures of it but with another trip through the former the bead is very close to the "factory" one.

I will be using copper tubes for the coolant pipes and plan to use the same technique to form beads on them. Being smaller in diameter they will require smaller dies. The leftover 'arched' bracket from the smaller exhaust clamp will work for one half of it. For the half-circle U-bolt half I will use a welded-ring. This is fat enough to make the same smooth, wide bead:
View attachment 12245

But that will have to wait until later on; too many fun projects to do first.
Thanks, bookmarked :)
 
Nice work! Using the round stock vs. washer makes much more sense - the harsh ridge from the washer would not be acceptable to me. What about filing the receiver edges to soften that groove left on the outside of the bead roll? Your beading jig looks great!
 
What about filing the receiver edges to soften that groove left on the outside of the bead roll?
Very true. Actually I did grind the edges a little, and it does help. Additional smoothing would certainly make it even cleaner. This particular exhaust clamp part (used for the receiver) is not an exact fit for the diameter of tube I'm forming here. It was just a leftover item in my stash. If I were to go buy one that has the exact same arch as the tube's OD it would make full contact and reduce the 'marking'. Perhaps the receiver could even be modified using some pieces of exhaust tube sliced into half-circles and welded across the edges. That would give it a wider surface to support the tube being beaded.

This aluminum tube is fairly thick (thicker than the usual pre-made turbo intercooler pipes), and that makes it more difficult to form a bead. To be honest the beads are not visible when the hoses are attached and these beads are "humped" enough that the hoses will easily seal, so I wasn't too concerned about the appearances. The important thing for me was that the tube was not distorted out of round and the bead was consistent and large enough to make a good seal...and it was cheap and easy to make for a very limited use tool.
 
Very nice! I have a couple varieties of beading tools and they are not cheap. This is a great way to do it and save the $ for all the tubing you'll need for your project.
 
Thanks to everyone for the kind words. Obviously I did not come up with the concept. There are lots of similar devices on the web made by others. I just put my own touch on how to make it work the way I wanted, and to make it easier to use.

And speaking of using it, I've started forming the beads on my actual IC pipes (as opposed to the test sample shown earlier). This has allowed me to discover a couple hints to help with its utilization:

1) When you mount the dies (forming pieces) to your bench vice, locate them far enough off toward one side so the ends of the vice jaws can act as a "stop" rest. That way you can slip your tube between the dies (from the side) until it meets the vice jaws, making the bead at a consistent position all the way around the diameter. This also helps to keep the tube square all the way around. Doing so will provide a nice straight bead.

2) Before starting the bead, use a flexible ruler of some sort to mark equal distances around the end of the tube. About every 10 to 15 mm apart worked on the size of tubes I'm using. These 'hash marks' act as a guide for how much to rotate the tube with each successive 'bite' of the former. The dies only crimp a section of the tube each time, so having those sections at equal distances relative to one another makes it easier to get a consistent bead. I found doing two complete rounds (around the tube) made the perfect size (depth) of bead on these aluminum tubes. So on the second pass I placed the dies in between (midway) the 'hash marks' used on the first round. This gave an equal amount over overlap for each 'bite', making a very smooth bead.

3) To further assure a perfectly consistent, smooth, even bead, you want to crank the vice the same amount with each 'bite'. I used the position of the vice handle as an indicator-guide of how far it turned each time. For example two turns ending at the 12:00 position. On the second pass the bead forms deeper, so that round might be three turns ending at the 12:30 position. Having a consistent stopping point made the bead exactly the same all the way around.

4) As mentioned earlier, having the correct sizes of die components will help keep a clean bead. Mine were not necessarily ideally sized, but I used what I had on hand. If you go out and buy a couple exhaust clamps to make one, take a sample of the tube(s) you will be using it on to find the best fitting clamps.

5) Something I haven't mentioned but is worth saying. I am using a rather large vice for this, and it still requires a bit of effort to make the beads (not really, but I'm learning to work less at things as I get older). If you have a fairly small vice it might not be as easy to do. Also, for the sake of time and simplicity, I just tack welded the angle-iron mounts to the edges of my vice. I use this particular vice only for fabrication work so it gets abused regularly. Therefore it does not bother me to tack weld something to it and cut/grind the tacks off after. If you happen to own a special, high dollar, limited edition vice custom made by a boutique craftsman in the Swiss Alps, then maybe you will want to come up with a way to clamp this to your vice instead.

6) This step is one I heard a former neighbor always say. She was a very kind older woman that enjoyed teaching the neighborhood kids to do things; bake cookies, arts and crafts, etc. And each time they got to the end she would say "And now the final step is to stop and appreciate the work we just did". To me that meant having a cocktail, so I did every time I heard her say it. But you can do whatever makes you happy when you've done a good job at something.
 
This morning I was taking a couple photos in the shop for another thread. So I took a couple of a tube I finished beading. This is after doing a second pass of the former around the tube (the earlier pictures were only one pass).

One end of this tube has a bead from the manufacturer and the other end is mine (I had to cut the tube shorter and therefore re-bead one end). Can you tell which one is which? Hint, it might not be what you think:

008.JPG


On the left is mine, right side is the original factory bead. It is a bit deceiving in the photo; both are actually the same outside diameter (full bead height), but mine is a bit wider/fuller (broader/rounder bead area) and even smoother/more consistent than the original. This tool works pretty well for not costing me anything to make (I used left over bits, should be under $10 to buy everything new to make it).

Here is another end shot for reference:

010.JPG
 
I will be using copper tubes for the coolant pipes and plan to use the same technique to form beads on them
That's pretty cool.....as for doing this on copper, I wonder if you can?...I'm using copper for coolant pipes, and it is hard copper, only thing I found in 1-1/4". I found that it didn't like bending, and made all my bends with sweated joints because of this. Currently I have no bead on the ends but would like to...looking forward to seeing if this will work on hard copper. Last time I had it all apart, I was going to simply wrap fine wire around it, and solder it on to form some sort of bead
 
Just heat it up till glow red. And make beads. If it’s so stiff.
Aluminum can be also softened same way, but it wont glow red.Have to use soap to know when to stop, to not melt it.
 
Heating the copper or aluminum pipe will remove the temper, meaning it will become annealed and easily formable again. When you ‘work’ the pipe it will become work hardened and may need annealling again to continue to work it.

Soldering a wire or ferrule onto the end of the copper is also a good solution for hose retention.
 
No idea how this will work on the copper tubes until I try. However the aluminum I used it on was not extremely soft either; it could not be easily bent or dented and required quite a lot of effort to form the bead, although I'm sure it was not 'hardened' aluminum. But I don't think the plumbing copper is 'hardened' either, just the nature of the material. Oddly the wall of the aluminum tubes I used is thicker than the wall on the copper tubes I have for the coolant pipes. While copper and aluminum in general are both soft materials, it will likely be more difficult to bead the copper.

I also plan to use fittings 'sweated' on (soldered) for the bends like Kevin said. This requires heating the tubes obviously, so it probably would not hurt anything to anneal the ends if needed to form the beads, as Janis and Karl said. When I tried to bead the aluminum tubes with the ViceGrip tool first, it was VERY difficult to clamp it down even only a slight depth. And I considered annealing the aluminum to make things easier. But I decided to try the vice method first, which it was enough to enable forming the bead without annealing (with considerable effort as I said).

The thought of soldering wire onto the tube is also good. I wonder if copper rings of the correct diameter could be placed toward the end and soldered on? Something like this copper "exhaust seal":

KA281(1).jpg
 
Check out this page: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/an900.php

1-1/4" ID, 1/8" wide, 3/32" thick, #AN900-20, $.64 each at "Aircraft Spruce". Shipping is very reasonable there, and I think they are the same source for the wrenches that will work to retorque the Fiat head fasteners (will have to go back and look that up)?

They are described as "copper-asbestos", so not sure how well they can be soldered. Also not 100% clear on the given dimensions; the image shows them as round (cross-sectionally speaking), but the specs sound more like square?
 
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