Front brake bleeding q. DONE! (I think!)

JNewm

True Classic
Hi all--

I've just installed a reconditioned pedal box from MWB with new master brake + clutch cylinders. I also installed new fluid hoses from both reservoirs to the cylinders.

The back brakes seem to bleed just fine. But attempting to bleed the front brakes just yields nothing. Hardly any fluid came out of the bleed screws, then it just stopped coming out altogether. No pedal feel. Fluid level in the reservoirs not going down.

My first thought was that I hadn't tightened the tube nuts on the junction blocks enough. They're kinda hard to get at. But I cranked 'em down pretty good, and I also didn't see any fluid/bubbles leaking out of the hard lines/tube nuts when I pressed the pedal.

My next thought was that maybe one of the new reservoir-to-cylinder hoses got a kink in it, starving both front lines/calipers of fluid. But I was pretty careful to try to avoid kinks, and I couldn't see any obvious ones on a quick visual inspection. Moreover, once the box was mounted, i connected the hoses to the reservoirs with all of the bottom hard lines disconnected. Fluid started pouring out of 3/4 orifices, with the exception of the hole that's closest to the bulkhead (front side of car) on the junction block that has two orifices. This leads me to believe it's probably not a kinked inlet hose, though I did subsequently do some final tightening down of the pedal box that could've pinched a hose, I suppose. Here's an artist's rendition of what the fluid looked like with the new hoses and the new pedal box:

1620599687616.png


The front calipers are new, as are the hard-line-to-caliper hoses. I cranked the #$@$ out of the connections, but that didn't fix it. Also perhaps worth noting: I was able to bleed this system pre-pedal-box/master-cylinder.

It's both front brakes, not just one. And the biggest/most obvious variables are the new master cylinder and new hoses. Seems like it almost has to be one of those things.

My tentative thoughts:

Suspend the reservoir with a bungee cord and try again. It's a dual-chamber reservoir, and one of the hoses has to kinda curl around the back of the reservoir before feeding through the channel to the bulkhead. Maybe that hose got kinked?

One or more of the "bottom" hard lines isn't tight enough. I don't know for sure which hard lines feed the front or the back system, but it seems likely that the two hard lines that come out of the same junction block (by the brake cylinder) do so. Coincidentally, or not, those two are the hardest to get at for tightening purposes. Maybe I need to really crank on 'em with a line wrench.

One or more of the "top" hard lines isn't tight enough. Again, I bought this whole pedal box reconditioned from MWB, with the and all the hard lines on the top of the pedal box already installed. Perhaps foolishly (okay, foolishly), I didn't check the tightness of all the already-done connections before installing. I just figured no way MWB would miss something like that, but of course they could've.

New master cylinder is already shot. Always possible. Would be very frustrating.

What else?

This is a real bummer. We were planning on taking the X for a two-week road trip, leaving this week--contingent on me getting this project done, of course. Really hoping that can still happen. (I guess on the bright side, the Toyota has AC.)
 
When I replaced mine, I had to bleed them at the hard line fittings where they exited the master cylinder first. There seemed to be a lot of air trapped around that area.
 
When I replaced mine, I had to bleed them at the hard line fittings where they exited the master cylinder first. There seemed to be a lot of air trapped around that area.
Ah, interesting, okay--so basically just use the tube nut as a bleed screw?
 
For reference:

Okay, so this is not how I was picturing it!

Is it telling/interesting at all that when all the hard lines were off and the hoses were connected to the reservoirs, fluid was dripping out of the Left Front and out of the Rear Brake holes--but *not* out of the Right Front hole?
 
Two great pics in this thread; @JNewm 's "artist's rendition of what the fluid looked like" (post #1), and @ng_randolph 's pic of the layout (post #4)! One for its artistic value, the other for its information value. I like them both. :)
 
You want to be absolutely certain that the pedal isn't applying any force when it's lifted all the way up - a bit of free play before the rod pushes on the piston. Once you're sure of that, fill the reservoir and open the bleeder at both front calipers, then wait for gravity to do its stuff - check every few hours to see if you're starting to get a drip at the calipers. Once you get that drip, let a bunch more fluid pass through and then go back to regular bleeding.

If you don't get any flow overnight, it's time to try the pressure bleeder (just air!) to see if you can give the fluid a little kick, or try reverse bleeding.
 
You want to be absolutely certain that the pedal isn't applying any force when it's lifted all the way up - a bit of free play before the rod pushes on the piston.
Well, now, that's interesting too! I swapped my old brake-light switch for the one that came on the MWB box, so the adjustment may be off.

About to head down for Round 2. Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! Going to try working smarter, not harder, this time.
 
Today's update: the plot thickens.

I first ensured that the brake pedal was not staying partially down in the released position, per @EricH 's tip above. Next, I cracked open the bleed screws on both front brakes. Being a bit impatient--I kinda need to get this car moving this week--I proceeded to try the "Bicycle Tire Inner Tube on the Reservoir" pressure bleeding trick others have posted about on various older threads. It was not particularly successful. I was able to get some pressure on the reservoir, but not much at all. (I was nervous about tightening the hose clamp very much on the plastic reservoir neck, but that allowed air to escape and also, in one especially exciting moment, the tube and hose clamp to blow off the top of the reservoir.)

I then tried pedal-bleeding at the calipers a few times, to no avail. The fluid level in the reservoir just wouldn't budge

Next, I tried bleeding at the junction block that goes to the left front brake according to @ng_randolph 's super helpful diagram and @rizthewiz 's tip. I got some wheezing and bubbling, and a handful of drips of fluid, but it was pretty underwhelming.

And then I tried cracking open the tube nut that goes to the right front brake and bleeding that. Same deal: very minimal bubbling with just a drip or two of fluid this time.

I examined all the parts of the hoses that were visible--no kinks as far as I could tell.

But here's where things got interesting. I actually took the hard line out of the junction block that goes to the left front brake, and it did not leak any fluid. That's weird, because per my beautiful artwork above, it was leaking before I snugged everything into place. I tried wiggling the brake pedal a few times--nothing.

So that's where things stand. It sure acts like it's not getting any fluid from the reservoir into the cylinder. I'm wondering if I pinched the hose somehow when I tightened down the box? Does that make sense? What am I missing here?
 
So that's where things stand. It sure acts like it's not getting any fluid from the reservoir into the cylinder. I'm wondering if I pinched the hose somehow when I tightened down the box? Does that make sense? What am I missing here?
That was my case. The hoses were tight in the hole between the passenger compartment and the frunk and one of the hose wasn't letting fluid come thru. Just playing with it solved the problem but I choosed to drill a new hole and split the hoses between the original hole and the new one. If you do that, choose carefully where you drill!
 
That was my case. The hoses were tight in the hole between the passenger compartment and the frunk and one of the hose wasn't letting fluid come thru. Just playing with it solved the problem but I choosed to drill a new hole and split the hoses between the original hole and the new one. If you do that, choose carefully where you drill!
I agree, it is too tight with the way so many things (hoses, speedo cable, wire harnesses, etc) are crammed through the firewall. The whole fluid reservoir setup is not ideal.

I rerouted the speedo cable for a better path to direct it straight at the speedo (also eliminated the in and out pathway through the cabin). Then I rerouted the wire harness with the heater blower speed resistor pack (not all years have it there) to eliminate that. I also moved the reservoirs to the drivers side so the supply hoses are a short, direct shot without drooping down along the scuttle. Furthermore I directed the clutch feed hose to that master straight from the rear instead of looping it to the front and back around to the master (never understood why they did it that way). Much better fluid flow after all these changes.
 
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Well, that was it--one of the brake hoses (the one going to the rear brake part of the cylinder) had a kink in it. After much fighting and pleading and cursing today, the pedal box is reinstalled and the clutch AND brakes are bled.

Thanks so much to all for the input!!! As usual, couldn't have done it without y'all's help.

One last question: Is it possible to mis-mount the steering column if you didn't actually take it apart and just swung it over to the side to work on the pedal box? I got everything put back together, but the steering wheel feels a bit "off" to one side when the wheels are straight, and the plastic column shroud has a pronounced tilt to it when viewed straight on.
 
Congratulations on getting it done!

Do you mean the whole column is angled to one side (left/right respective to the driver), or that the wheel itself is turned/rotated off center (like when turning a corner)?
 
Congratulations on getting it done!

Do you mean the whole column is angled to one side (left/right respective to the driver), or that the wheel itself is turned/rotated off center (like when turning a corner)?

Thanks! I finally feel like a *real* X owner. This was an absolutely brutal project. But it does feel good to be (almost) done.

Seems like the latter--like the wheel itself is turned/rotated off center.
 
Seems like the latter--like the wheel itself is turned/rotated off center.
That would not have changed unless you removed the steering wheel and reinstalled it in a different spot on the shaft, or changed the tie rod settings on the front steering/alignment. So it was likely off before but didn't notice it until now?
 
Makes sense; thank you! I will not take the whole column down, then. I'm thinking the plastic shroud is just off a bit. Maybe it's possible that replacing the front strut assemblies + adding the shock towers a couple of weeks ago shifted things around, but I think maybe it's just the shroud. The one other thought I had as I lie awake pondering this until way too late last night was that I used lock washers instead of flat to do the "raise my steering wheel mod". (They were the only thick washers I had lying around.). Maybe one of them is turned differently than the other, such that one of the corners of the steering-column mounting flange is raised relative to the others. Headed down to check it out now.
 
Even if the stacks of washers (column spacers) were different from side to side, that would not make the steering wheel rotate off center. The metal mounts / frame that supports the steering shaft and steering wheel has bearings, so everything can rotate inside it. Therefore you can turn that mounting bracket around but the wheel won't turn (and vice versa). However an uneven stack of washers can make the mount a little rotated, so the plastic (clam shell) cover looks twisted. Just not the steering wheel.
 
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