Discussion in 'FS&W Forum' started by Eastep, Dec 7, 2018 at 2:16 PM.
Very good condition. Pulled from low milage & running '84/85 UK car. Asking $300 obo + shipping.
Without the euro cam, is there any benefit to running a euro head?
As compared to the US head, you get net higher compression ratio because it does not have the decompression recesses that the US head has. And since this is not a US head skimmed to within an inch of its life, you don't have the annoying problems of needing 1300 cam belt tensioner and an adjustable cam cog/sprocket. My guess is that if you did a little clearancing of the intake ports to mimic an FI head, just adding this to an existing FI car would probably add 5-7 HP just from the compression boost. Add this plus the Euro cam and you might net 10-15HP total. The Euro cam is for a carburetor, but according to Steve C in Australia, it plus US bone stock FI should still have an acceptable idle and give you the feel of added lower end torque, maybe costing you a teeny bit of top rpm. You'd need to find a place for the Thermotime switch however since this head does not have a spot for it.
Mike, may I suggest posting pix of the combustion side of the head? After all, that's the big selling point, no decompression recess.
I did exactly this on one of my cars (14 bolt Euro head & cam with notches for the injectors) and can confirm that it works out nicely. For the idle control and cold start injector, I made up my own controller with an Arduino.
Eastep, What is the casted-in part number to this head? I haven't updated the Wiki in a while and have a few more line items I need to include. Also I think I need to do a better job at documenting the Auxiliar sensor ports. The table will just get more and more columns.
Also a note to this. When doing a hot 1300 build the 1500 heads help as they have larger exhaust ports 33mm vs 31. This is ideal if matched with a better cam and this provides higher compression to boot. Ensuring proper capable flow with carb and manifold and that is exactly what my engine build consists of.
As eluded to in a previous post, this head doesn’t have provisions for the fuel injection thermo time switch and aux air regulator. I modded a Yugo head for FI by welding a boss for the thermo time switch and mount for the aux air regulator.
All packed up (again) and ready to go.
I may be interested. Can you give me an estimate on freight cost to 01545 zip?
Thanks for the interest Kevin. I will try to get a quote for you, during my lunch break, tomorrow.
Great thanks. Question; noting the exterior mods that are required (Thermontime) is this a bolt on performance upgrade or will there be some machining required to really squeeze out the 5-7 HP increase? In short I want to just bolt this one onto my existing '86 FI motor and go! Preferably quicker
As stated above the head needs notches for the fuel injectors if that has not been done. You should be able to find pictures of both carb and FI heads.
As DaveR posted, you'll need to make some clearance notches for the injectors. This is not an insurmountable task! Using your existing FI head as an example and the FI manifold gaskets as a template, you should be able to use a couple of different "bites" of round files to rough out the divot and then clean up with 100-220-320 sandpaper. Or if you feel adventurous, a Dremel with a good assortment of sanding attachments (Dremel's fine stones will load up with the aluminum and become ineffective in short order) will git-r-done too. I'd say at the most this would take 20-30 min per port.
The thermotime switch will be an issue for a Massachusetts X. To operate as intended it needs to be in the engine's "internal" cooling circuit, that it, the side of the cooling system that is on the hot side of the thermostat. Options are to have a bung installed in the heads itself as did Mark in the pic he posted. Another option would be to have a bung installed on the water pump return pipe. Another less invasive option would to graft some sort of T with a bung into the heater circuit, but the possible downside of that choice is that for it to be reading the internal engine cooling circuit, you would have to open the heater control valve to allow coolant flow. Yet another option would be to abandon the purpose of the thermotime switch, which is the automatic control and function of the cold start valve and the Aux Air Valve, and instead operate those manually. The cold start valve could be operated with a simple momentary closed switch or button, and the AAV's function of allowing air to pass thru hoses could be accomplished with a cable-operated heater control valve.
I like that: An FI car with a "Choke" knob.
Do you have the estimated freight cost to 01545?
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