Grey X19

autox19

True Classic
I may be remembering wrong, but isn't your fuel tank relocated to the frunk? If it is (or if you move it there), then you have the open space behind the driver where the original tank went. Would that allow a turbo to sit below, in that space - rather than on top? Naturally that will require the firewall to be cut open. And I don't know what options exist for turbo exhaust manifolds for your engine, so that may not help much anyway.

And now that I think about it, doesn't the "B" engine have the manifolds opposite from the "K" - as in intake in front and exhaust in rear? But I really don't know, I've never dealt with any Honda engine.
That was the plan to move it up. Then I had a fuel issue and needed a new tank. Stock was in my budget. Still might get one up front but still need a custom manifold for the turbo. And yes, h and b series run with the exhaust towards the front and intake in the back like the pic where the k is intake in the front exhaust in the rear.

Odie
 

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
h and b series run with the exhaust towards the front and intake in the back like the pic where the k is intake in the front exhaust in the rear
Ok, I had that backwards - thinking it was the other way around.
I guess if a custom manifold anyway is needed they it doesn't matter where the turbo gets located. The important thing is that you add one. :p
What's the odds that some sort of existing aftermarket turbo manifold for your engine can work here. I've seen ones that mount the turbo on top of the engie (for drag racing, etc) and other various places.
 

carl

True Classic
Maybe air/fuel ratio gauges need a "flames and pop/bangs" mixture setting....just to be used for car shows of course.
 

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
Just add a flame thrower to the exhaust pipe:
hqdefault.jpg
 

mkmini

True Classic
Unfortunately rarely I see anyone sharing costs of the builds. These costs are only about 1.6 turbo build. Not adding anything else that I would need anyway.

To clarify things and help others to figure out what they really want.

1k ECU+lambda

2k electricians work+ parts he has installed (normally I guess it costs x2 here, also it includes all new
wiring for car)

0.35k Fine tuning

0.6k Punto spare car
0.5k Uno Turbo spare car (these both I earned back to nearly zero by selling parts)

~3350€ in total
Is it cheap or not it’s up to You.
(Avarage wage for people with brains here is ~ 1.5k per month )

Fine tuning is planned on next Thursday.
 

mkmini

True Classic
I can't beat that, but I am not far away.
You have spent where I didn’t that I know from memory:
Air to water intercooler, that’s I guess ~250€
Turbo from volvo 150 € 🤷‍♂️

Also I didn’t count in my muffler, but it would be needed for any engine and was definitely under 80€ in total.

This pricelist is not to win some other my imaginary contest :D

Just to let know.

And it is twice as much that I have been told it will cost. But it was 3 years ago, inflation :D

If I would knew it in the beginning, maybe mazda V6 would happen 🤷‍♂️
But that again would cost:
•engine for free or 200
•axles 300
•brake test 500 (testing limits on track for street legal approval)
•new brakes after test 160
•drawings for approval fee 200
•some mysterious bits 500
1860€ in total (if first brake test would be failed 😂 .... then price list would start to grow in enormous speed)
 

Dr.Jeff

True Classic
In a way it is fortunate, but also unfortunate that in most areas we do not have to pay for inspections or approval tests to make such projects. Fortunate because it is less costly, but unfortunate because a lot of unsafe vehicles surround me on the roads...maybe even mine. o_O

For my turbo project the total costs are much lower. Most of the primary components are stock, late model X1/9 with FI 1500 original drivetrain. So the costs were mostly for a turbo and exhaust manifold (I bought used), ECU (MegaSquirt $300 USD), intercooler/pipes/BOV ($100 USD), self built exhaust and air intake ($50 USD), wideband O2 ($75 USD), and various sensors (mostly inexpensive items from common vehicles). Under $1000 USD (about 800 E) total - not including dyno tuning (undetermined so far). I'll tally more exact expenderatures once everything is finally done.

But one of my primary goals has been to see how affordable I could do it, so I have keep everything as economical as possible. That means not everything is top name brand or best quality. Also another goal was to keep it conservative in terms of performance (low boost) so that the stock engine can survive. If I wanted to go for more performance (higher boost) the cost would go up; better pistons and valves, better turbo, etc. Furthermore, on top of this could be additional costs to rebuild the engine if needed, or to add more accessories, or buying all new components, etc. Therefore it could go double that, even triple if you cannot do all of the work yourself (i.e. pay for labor). It really all depends on what you have to work with and what decisions you make when planning the project.
 

Bjorn Nilson

True Classic
I completely agree with Dr Jeff. What I've learnt from my build is not to underestimate the costs for the "add-on" parts that is easily forgotten when going wild in performance. I paid 1600 USD for a renovated engine including a gearbox, stock ECU etc. Then add piping etc for 200 USD and you are good for 140-160hp. Well spent money I would say as there is no way to create that kind of power from a NA 1500 engine for same or less money.
But if you want some serious power from the engine the cost is running high very quickly: ECU, modern sensors, water/air IC, injectors, fuel pump and regulator, ignition, high flow exhaust... costs are easily doubled or tripled.
Also worth to mention is the costs for having the car roadworthy for 240 hp; coil overs, wheels.
Including purchase of the car I've probably spent 12-13000 USD on this "hobby" but I think it is worth it. If selling the car I will probably have most of my spent money back. -But that won't happen.
 

mkmini

True Classic
That's a major bummer! What happened?
I am “B” in the drawing
Car from the right side didn’t want to press brake, tried to steer off and accelerate to avoid collision, but she even didn’t try to brake.
I was on the second line (tram’s rails in this case) car on the first line on my right was giving her way to drive out of that place because his lane was stopped anyway because of traffic
BBA94229-E1F2-42B2-A6E5-B8A9CD458C33.jpeg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Did she hit the wheel at the same time, or the fender vent first? The wheel angle looks off in the pic, but that might just be camera angle.

The A B boxes with arrow head are where you ended up? Circles are where you started?
 
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