RED X19

Leaks or what but oil consumption is 1l on 1000km.

Changed coolant temp sensor for dash. It still lies, but less.
 
mkmini said:
Leaks or what but oil consumption is 1l on 1000km.

Changed coolant temp sensor for dash. It still lies, but less.
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Dash gauges that read wrong seems common on these cars. And not just the temp, but pretty much all of them. I think it is the gauges themselves.
 
So far
260BD287-39B1-4300-B112-2F0972A65F78.jpeg
 
about 146hp 1bar
turbo went out of puff, so more power is still there if will be needed
and waterpump left the chat :D
 
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Will move to lighter and smaller wheels at first possibility, on normal flat surface these 16” are ok, but on roads and streets are a lot of grooves from trucks, that makes steering annoying.
Traction on rear wheels is ok with 15 year old tires 😂 it feels that more traction will tru to break gearbox or axles. Torque range is excellent for street driving.
I prefer that wheels can spin out when needed not excellent traction.

@lookforjoe tuner said that on high rpms it looked like more power could be achieved with opened wastegate, because engine may suck in more air than turbo can deliver, but rod for wastegate opener is not adjustable. (*out OF puff :D )

Yes, waterpump leaked about ~2l of coolant on dyno, at first thought it was oil from somewhere, happily not 😬
 
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More impressive than the "HP" numbers is that amazing torque curve!

From what little I understand, looking at the dyno chart the power curve is fairly low in the RPM range, suggesting the turbo reached the limit of its capacity (size, compressor map)....it "ran out of puff". I don't recall exactly which turbo you have but the stock ones on UT or Punto GT are rather small. That is good for street driving; no lag, great torque, good off the line acceleration in traffic. If you were building a "track only" car then a larger turbo would move the power band higher in the RPM range, giving more top power but also losing some low/mid range torque. To me this looks like a great street engine.

Altering the waste gate will possibly increase the turbo's boost level (i.e. above 1 bar). But there is a limit to what the turbo can due based on its size and the design of the wheels. Changing the wheels can also increase the turbo's output, but again to a limit. If you really want more power then you might benefit more from a larger turbo than trying to modify this one too much. Also keep in mind the higher you go with the boost level the greater the internal heat becomes (exponentially). So greater risk of detonation and engine failure. A larger intercooler will help. But the engine has its limits in terms of airflow and resistance - head design, cam, valves, ports, intake track, exhaust system, etc. At some point trying to force higher boost levels will not give satisfactory results. Everything needs to be designed to work together.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
More impressive than the "HP" numbers is that amazing torque curve!

From what little I understand, looking at the dyno chart the power curve is fairly low in the RPM range, suggesting the turbo reached the limit of its capacity (size, compressor map)....it "ran out of puff". I don't recall exactly which turbo you have but the stock ones on UT or Punto GT are rather small. That is good for street driving; no lag, great torque, good off the line acceleration in traffic. If you were building a "track only" car then a larger turbo would move the power band higher in the RPM range, giving more top power but also losing some low/mid range torque. To me this looks like a great street engine.

Altering the waste gate will possibly increase the turbo's boost level (i.e. above 1 bar). But there is a limit to what the turbo can due based on its size and the design of the wheels. Changing the wheels can also increase the turbo's output, but again to a limit. If you really want more power then you might benefit more from a larger turbo than trying to modify this one too much. Also keep in mind the higher you go with the boost level the greater the internal heat becomes (exponentially). So greater risk of detonation and engine failure. A larger intercooler will help. But the engine has its limits in terms of airflow and resistance - head design, cam, valves, ports, intake track, exhaust system, etc. At some point trying to force higher boost levels will not give satisfactory results. Everything needs to be designed to work together.
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I have same turbo as You
Longer stroke
Different intake manifold
Bigger intake valves (not sure about exhaust ones)
Different cam
But You have done a lot of porting.
I guess these curves are what You can expect.

Next comment here wil be #1000 🥳😅
 
mkmini said:
I have same turbo as You
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:)
Your engine is better prepared than mine. I am starting with a stock engine to see how it does. Then maybe later do some of the engine mods you have.

Here's what I've done to my UT turbo unit; very mild porting, fully adjustable wastegate, custom downpipe. I'm not trying to make big boost with it, just reduce the resistance internally and make it more adjustable tuning to suit my engine (1500cc SOHC)....

My turbo porting is mild, mostly to clean things up and smooth transitions (same with the exhaust manifold). A little opening up of the wastegate track to allow quicker pressure response. Matching the ports of the turbo with the exhaust manifold and downpipe.

The wastegate is a aftermarket item that allows for changing of the internal spring (general boost range), adjust of the spring tension (fine tuning of the maximum boost), and adjustment of the rod (wastegate function). A boost control valve ("MAC valve") is also added to allow the ECU to control boost.

The standard UT downpipe is a good design, but it would not fit on my engine due to my air conditioning compressor. So I made a custom one. I tried to use the largest pipe sizes possible, make the bends as gentle as possible (and still fit the tight space), and separate the wastegate flow as much as possible.

The blow off valve is also a aftermarket item to make it easier to incorporate with the rest of my system.

The other improvements include a large intercooler, large-diameter short-length connecting pipes, big air filter, and as smooth transitions as possible.

Really these are pretty standard items to do for a stock turbo on most factory systems. Again, not trying to make big boost but just be as efficient as possible. And maybe this is not the best approach because these are fairly old technology turbos. Buying a modern aftermarket turbo would yield much better results. Honestly I started with the used turbo, decided to rebuild it for general assurance, and things kept going from there - project creep I guess. However I will say all of the changes/improvements I made did not cost much - far less than a new turbo - and limiting cost is one of the main goals for this particular project. It has been more of a learning exercise for me than anything.
 
As have got cold most likely in that dyno place and have to entertain myself - combined my and @Bjorn Nilson X’s power output curves.
Red and blue lines are of Bjorn’s 1.3 Uno Turbo engine with very little modifications
*black lines after last tune was a bit higher 😅 it just wasn’t printed

I
32EF55DC-C0BD-46A8-8F76-9F792C5F558F.jpeg
 
Interesting how much higher his torque band is than yours. He must have an adjustable WG for it to have moved up the powerband, and maybe a different cam / cam timing?
 
lookforjoe said:
Interesting how much higher his torque band is than yours. He must have an adjustable WG for it to have moved up the powerband, and maybe a different cam / cam timing?
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I recall that Bjorn has a completely different turbo unit on his than Janis. If I'm not mistaken Bjorn has a slightly larger aftermarket item, while Janis has the factory one. And that would reflect the different power curves between them. Hopefully they can both confirm that.

If I'm correct, then this is a excellent demonstration of how the size of the turbo affects the engine's output; the bigger turbo yields greater power but at a higher RPM range, sacrificing the lower RPM range. Basically it elevates the curve but also shifts it to the right. Each has its place depending on the application; e.g. street vs track.

There are some other minor differences in their engines but I'd guess the turbo is the major reason for those curve differences.
 
Is that with the standard UT IHI turbo? If so I think you've reached the limit. -That tiny turbo cannot deliver much more than that. The torque curve is massive with a huge range👍. With a slightly bigger turbo you can absolutely get more power from it, but as Dr.Jeff says your heat problem will become even worse. A better/larger IC is absolutely needed to handle more boost. Just like on my car, the power drops at around 6500rpm (mine 6800rpm) but that gave me a top speed of 207 km/h @7000 rpm. I will soon install a taller final drive from a Strada/Ritmo 85 to reduce rpm at highway speed.
 
Yes small IHI from UT.
Definitely I do not seek for more power yet. Have to learn to control this power and sort other things there first.

This is I guess my first car now that cannot be driven with gas pedal in two positions- closed and fully opened throttle 😂

Limiter is set to 6600rpm on my as tuner said there is no gain and need to go fore more rpm in this setup.
 
Internally on my is only machined pistons to lower CR (not in the best method).
Valve springs from UT (are they better- I’m not the one to tell, but they are stiffer).
And cleaned valve seats together with valves with soma abrasive paste. All other is stock. Rings on pistons is even same and midmatched by cylinders and not measured 🤦🏻‍♀️
My first experience internally in engine.
 
@mkmini with your torque curve you will manage with just two or three gears. Are you sure it is not a diesel😉?
@lookforjoe my WG is adjustable with a MAC boost controller. The cam is from a Ritmo/Strada and the TD04 HL14T turbo i from a Volvo S40 T4 (1.9l).
I think the turbo is the biggest difference between my an Janis cars. The massive torque from Janis engine at low revs is s result of the bigger displacement and my figures are mostly because of the bigger turbo.
However, Janis reached 149hp@1bar. I cannot set lower boost than 1 bar (can't go lower than WG spring), but I have 164whp@1bar (205whp@1.5bar). This I do not understand. -Janis bigger engine should perform better than mine at same boost.
 
Smaller exhaust valves on mine
Bigger inlet, cam profile is similar.
If wheel diameter play a role, then I have 16” 215/40 (578mm OD)
 
Gahahha I said same about diesel, it’s on 98 gas, that maybe is not the freshest one because it’s less used and maybe lower octane actually. (Detached? What beers does when it stays opened :D )
 
mkmini said:
Smaller exhaust valves on mine
Bigger inlet, cam profile is similar.
If wheel diameter play a role, then I have 16” 215/40 (578mm OD)
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Wheel size/diameter shouldn't matter I think, as the car revs to the top most of the powerband. I will try to do a dyno later with my taller final drive and compare results.
 
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